STATUS

havent had an issue with the MLS-R (cometic) metal gaskets yet.

It made more power with 10psi less boost...

It sounds like someone has fitted the 10cm versions which are designed for more mods and higher boost pressures. If it was mine i would swap to the 8cm rear, it will give you much better response, the housings are available separatley. My old 32 made 312 on 16-17 odd psi and similar power to yours at 22psi. Full boost was FAR lower than yours also, very similar to gt2530's.

i had a rb20 with T04Z and 360+rwkw in the other week..... std inlet plenum.. so the extra expense may be moot. Happy to put aside a day to play housings etc if your keen. Wheezys car was the first to pull such numbers on my dyno and the only diff was plenum to other cars so im sure there is benefits but id love to have the time to overlay with and without to pinpoint exactly what and where.

hmm id be looking at the gate position on the manifold, i have used bigger trust turbos with the 44mm tial gates (not ideal but i have to work with what customers roll in with sometimes). Roy the type r is 47mm, So far i have no boost issues with them. The white R33 on my website has no issues either and it has a 8cm housing instead of the 10cm... and runs the type r trust gate. We run a 47mm blitz gate on the drift car (its a dual outlet blitz, as they were out of 50mm) and it runs a much larger K5-660R, it is borderline but holds boost spot on.

HAS to be pre turbo for accurate results, most stable position is about 1cm above turbo flange in exh housing. As you have only one DONT assume 5 and 6 are going to run hotest as it is not always the case.

used a few sets from flyn, raymond has some pretty good deals atm on ebay.

what turbo setup, rail/inj and boost (bigger boost means bigger corrections? entry angle to plenum is also critical. We some interesting corrections on the race car but not that big. Luckily your ecu allows inj vs boost correction most dont, The 795-odd hp 2jz in the other thread needed between 6-8% in the rear 3 after 18psi, i spose i got carried away without stating that the test only takes a few mins and can save an engine, can be checked by anyone and requires no expensive gear, it should be a precautionary check taken after any plenum mods or in cases like yours after any mods. Most importantly it is not concrete but is a worthwhile test none the less.

whats number 1 and 2 doing under big boost on yours?

blow by on a street car should be nearly zero, the bigger the hp the bigger the ring gap etc so some blow by is inevitable but on a streeter it should not breath. if you do a lot of stop start driving condesation is also inevitable in the catch can.

something similar, any with the water inlet supplied separate tend to leak badly down the track. Just a quick note to let you know the difference in fitting a copy versus a genuine greddy plenum, we charge 250 more to fit a copy as it takes 3 times as long to fit.

on friday i found a suppy of injectors but they require plug changes (like all sard) and a rail spacer. I will have final kit pricing on monday arvo as i have a kit for testing, once im happy with fitment and tuneability i will update this thread. i am anticipating a big saving.....

Usually on bigger HP stuff (supercharged V8's) the cars come in after being on a engine dyno so indivual cylinder mixtures were already monitored and addressed either by 8 EGT probes or 8 lambda probes in each collector. This makes tuning the engine less stressful as the tuner only needs to monitor overall mixtures (left and right on v8's or single sided on inline 6's and 4's). With the majority of other setups the car comes in "green" pretty much the brainchild of the owner, with more empahis on cost and ease instead of result and capability so things like cylinder distribution is often overlooked and hard to monitor. This is never really an issue on stock plenum RB's etc but over the past few weeks i have had quite a few differrent plenum styles come through for final dyno tuning, some good, some bad. Now without going into specific brands i can say that most of the established retail type products seem to work very well, and the individual shop made or cut and shut std manifolds fair far worse. One particular plenum was nice and shiny but required a 8% differrence in fuel delivery between 1 and 6, now this may not seem to bad but at idle this makes for a fairly cranky number 6 spark plug and untuned would almost certainly result in a melted piston or low knock threshhold (which was what initially alerted me to the issue). A quick simple test is to run minimum boost in 3rd or 4th and shut the car off at the top of the pull and remove all the plugs, all colours should be equal. increase boost to your max tuned boost and do the pull again. Compare the colours and if you find the plugs get darker as you go back along the cylinders or vice versa you have an issue. The problem usually gets worse with boost and depending on plenum design can get lean as you go back or richer so make sure to lay the plugs in order. There is another culprit for poor cylinder distribution (feul this time not air) and that is the fuel rail but rb rails are pretty good and most cases ive been able to trace back to plenum based air distribution issues. ive included some pics of spark plugs these two shots show the differrence between no cylinder compensation and cylinder compensation. These issues are easy to address in most aftermarket ecu's but if you find you need large adjusments, consider a new plenum.

its about right, just shy of 800hp atw so its within coee of 900-950fly, but saying that it seems sard (multihole) 1000cc dont ACTUALLY flow thier advertised rates, after testing @ motec they are about 5-8% short.... even with a base pressure of 50-70psi. yes this is the turbo kit off damn but rebuilt fully DAMN made 575rwkw on race fuel at autosalon at 30psi, (rest of this car is 10 times better than damn's setup, plenum, head, piping etc)

i will post them up a bit later today for you.

We tune everything MOTEC, LINK, NISTUNE, AUTRONIC, ADAPTRONIC, MICROTECH, EMS, HALTEC, VCM suite, BRE, Hondata, VIPEC, etc etc and you know what the only one that i hate...... wolf, yes the v500 is worlds better than the v4 but i still dont like them

any word on your setup?

^ it should be sweet only going to the fuel reg. i will post pic in 2 secs. just cut blue line (foreground) in half and plug into both halves.

i do both regulary and to be honest i would go the Link G4 (vipec rebadge Links) plug in over a 300zx remap. Nistune is great but by the time you buy a 300zx ecu, nistune board, insatl it and tune it you are 3/4 of the way to something you will never outgrow.

800-1200 depending on material and sillicon choice. Make sure to put a flex joint in front/dump and one between gate and front dump...... saves cracked manifolds down the track if you scrape a speed hump, kid or Neighbours pet.

i have squashed cooler pipes before the worm drive fails the reason the thread is not cut all the way through is to stop the sillicon from being pulled through and torn and i have found most clamps with holes right through for the thread tend to bend and then the drive slips, i am yet to strip the worm drive on those clamps. anywhere can source the clamps, i get mine in bulk (boxes of 20) from bearing wholesalers. Can also order online via the info link ive posted below. http://www.norma.net.au/norma-constant-ten...ose-clamps.html

apparentley not: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fs...ad-t261281.html i have not got one here to compare though. Ps the KU plenums from ebay are quite good too (used a few now with excellent results), might save you some coin.

spot on, the age of poor machining ended years ago. If your using the correct clearances and a decent machine shop running in is mearly a matter of hours not 1000's of kms. I tell all my customers for whom ive built engines: DRIVE IT NORMALY but dont THRASH it or drive interstate ie no long steady drives and no drag racing. The best thing to do is map out a day hill run (or great ocean road etc).

Okay here starteth the rant: t-bolt clamps... the worst... we average about 3-4 cars a week that need boost drop diagnosis of these 80% are due to t-bolts clamps... we can usually find 2-3.5 "lost psi in theses cars just by changing clamps. Many think bigger is better but unfortunately it is far from correct, even if your not blowing pipes i reckon i can still find a boost bleed on 70-80% of cars fitted with "t" style clamps. years ago NORMA decided to go retail (into autobarn, repco, supercheap, bursons etc) and i remmeber having a few conversations with thier tech guy ( i was the purchasing officer for autobarn head office at the time) and we went through all the differrent clamps and thier uses.... after discussing all the clamps i bought up how inept these t-bolts clamps are that they sell only to be told that they are NOT designed to be used in high thermal changing conditions (engine bays) and for sillicon (cooler joins) BUT due to public demand (damn autosalon cars and thier polished bling) they and i still went ahead and blister packed them. solution: NORMA constant torque worm drive clamps as pictured below. I have used these for about 3 years with great sucess even on cars running big boost like 2-2.3BAR they keep an even torque even in extreme temperature changes and ARE designed to work in sillicon applications. Oh and they are half the price of t bolt clamps.

Just finished doing the same thing on a R33 @ the shop. Forget 256's for that turbo, we ended up getting a good gain with HKS 264 step ones and cam gear. 300rpm better response, 50nm through out mid and top end. Will chase up graphs. all runs @16.5psi