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these kits have been round for years, im pretty sure rocket ind. vpw etc all have them laying around. i had a kit fitted to a BMW (intercooller spray bar) and it worked EXTREMELY well. I had a inlet temp (link G3) datalog but it went when my lappy was stolen.

you have to take both notches off (takes longer than replacing plugs), and cause you need to cut the plugs off anyway i rather replace them. As for cost i dont usually do it.The cost to buy GTR resistor + GTR injectors + fit is dearer. If you do the whole job DIY it is feasible, if not your best bet is to buy aftermarket

you think too much buy a decent off the shelf kit (blitz return flow) and i gaurantee excellent results... i have used just about every kit available from jjr kits to full custom top shelf items costing close to 3k and the blitz one still offers the best results..... important note: Many focus to much on pressure drop accross a core, usually the better the core (cooling wise) the larger the pressure drop to some degree. Remmber for heat to transfer it needs to have made contact on the way through the core...

yeah those 3 small wires are the tacho calibration wires, 4, 6 or 8cyl.

you need the GTR plugs also, did a set today the rb20 plugs dont fit the gtr injectors (RB20 has offset pin whereas the GTR has central and internal locating pins). Fitting GTR resistor is a piece of piss to fit. If your lazy fit 6 x 10watt (6.8ohm) resistors inline to each injector.

just a quick note (not sure who tuned it) that full throttle yesterday on a 43 degree day is not idea testing conditions it sounds like a few missed celld on the timing map, should be 2mins for your tuner to fix.

hey dude i got a few good sets you can have..... remmeber though to pimp out with arp fasteners. please no pm these are nly on offer to ADZ

go the JE over the CP's for sure as for the rest of the list its really up to you. As for rods NItto/spool/ART all the same, used all three in sr's and RB's with no issues, nice and cheap too. I HATE acl race bearings and prefer to use king in all my engines.

sell the 60mm and run twins.

well said. Every conversation ive had with GT whether internerd or phone has only ever re-enforced my belief that he is more than competant in what he is doing. GT it is sad to see you got burned by dickheads but inevitebly it happens to everyone and usually by the person you have gone most out of your way to help..... i.e. its cost yourself money to help them out.... up your prices and vet the time wasters...

I see alot of the CES stuff through as the MelbS15 club pretty much use them exclusively, nice front pipe but they need to slap the guy welding in the oxy sensor bungs as 99% of them are poorly done and bind up unless you die grind them out.

yes it is BULLSHIT ive been installing them for nearly 7 years without ONE failure.... ONLY way for it to die is if the adapter is not fitted. mind you i do more remaps on the R34 now as they are cheaper.

i have a cracked version of realflight g4.

too true but the end result is far superior and $800-$900 dollars is pocket change compared to the average 10-15k engine package.

i used to love the walbro's but after having a spate of them unable to crack 200rwkw latley (last november) i have been sworn against them, 3 were bought from a large victorian speed shop and the other 2 from tweak it (probably all the same batch) fitting 040's fixed the issue on all 5 cars.

i would look at a AOD aswell, it will give you a mech lock on over drive for street duties and still handle nines (800hp) (quick look on TCI, B&M and LenTech will confirm) all day long. Can race glides build decent AOD's as they are pretty specialised trannies? after speaking to a few Trans building companies in the states the AOD is the obvious choice for a tough street car with friday night drag action in mind. Im currentley building a combo atm that will make around 360rwkw through a C4 (now an AOD) 5500rpm stall its running 3.55 gearing, so around 1600-1800rpm @ highway speeds depending on final tyre hieght choice. Disregard the whole lot above if your car is not regulary street driven ps i prefer to tune the car firs twith a stock stall (or up to 2500), then dial it in with the race converter...... tuning anything with decent power and a stall speed over 5000rpm can be a night mare.

410-415rwkw is realistic.

i think VPW in vic have injectors to suit that combo, siemens brands from memory.

think kw loss not percentage as your car uses the same box.

i cant give a blanket answer as every setup is differrent, some need it dropped a few hundred some need it raised alot.

pull the 4 bolts holding the rear cover on, remove all the vanes from the rear pump and reassemble. Plug hicas inlet to pump. Done this to more than a dozen cars with no side effects.

Hard to say without running it down the strip, i reckon from seat of the pants the auto with its shift kit was quicker especially outta the hole but no doubt the manual would run a better MPH.

yeah, i start from 4000rpm and move the point upwards until the area under the curve is largest/ smoothest. I only included one run (red one) on the print out as it gets pretty busy with 6 runs overlayed.

sorry my bad (i get hit in the head alot) the ecu is not controlling boost if it has the HKS ebc hooked up, the ecu monitors boost and regulates it via the solenoid, in your case it is ignoring the factory solenoid. i have only ever had one remapped ecu control boost well and it was a mines remap that ran 1.2bar on the nose from start to redline (as good as any aftermarket ebc). i know Nistune is working on getting it working via the std solenoid but it is a matter of finding the correct address. have you had it on a dyno? to see if it is indeed tuned for 1.3 or has someone just fitted a boost controller?

nah sorry, none laying around