STATUS

i know rotormaster (melb) has played with mixing compressor wheels, but as for turbine wheels im not sure, ive asked the question and so far they all reckon its to dear to machine up the shafts etc... and ust try sell you a turbo the t67 on the rb20 is pretty big (vs response) what is your power goal?

18-20 is its sweet spot but expect 220 @ 16 odd psi. $900 is pretty good, they are about 2600 new in a kit (only made for toyota).

balancer is totally different.

they only made a 8cm but just look inside the exhoust mounting flange it is cast into it

well on SR's (S15 etc) which run the same setup the results are similar with poncams, i think i have athids graphs (peak of 300rwkw but with varying midrange with each differrent switch point) somewhere where i incresed the switching point in 1000rpm increments on each run until it was smooth. i will see if i saved it.

correct, i set the PFC switch point to 7000 (on this particular car) K-mon is always connected timing curve is nice and strong.... no sign of det, even on the most aggressive ramp (1sec for every 370rpm or 15 sec in total)

the R34 GTT is pretty smart it uses a variety of things to monitor / control boost (AFM voltage, boost sensor and boost solenoid) some of the jap remaps do control the boost solenoid. the factory actuator is very average on GTT's and is a prime candidate for a hks or garret upgrade unit.

yup pfc set value. (switch point)

i reckon you might be getting float too.... anything bigger than pon's on stock valve springs usually ends in tears. timing sounds way off to in the mid you should be able to have at LEAST 20 degrees tapering down to about 13-14 (if base timing is set correct. The car i just finished 10mins ago was happy @ 18 degrees at 18psi (pfc load line 154000 ish) std rb25 except for bolts ons (base timing was set also) Plugs were BCPR7ES. Oh what cam gears? i had issues with some VISION / arespeed ones awhile back they were ground like one tooth out.... customer lost 20rwkw's by fitting cams and these gears, i have since built an engine for another customer and he supplied the same brand and they are also out one tooth when i dialed in the cams....

R33 series 1 FMIC, full exhuast, GCG GT3082R bolt on kit runs done at 18psi. Auto 241.7rwkw (381.7nm) (thin blue line) Manual 277.6rwkw (429.9nm) (thick blue line) Auto 200rpm better response (normal of course) Vct was set @ 7000 to produce best power and curve, red dyno line is vct set at factory point..... massive loss of mid range. This VCT drop is very common on just about any turbo making over 250rwkw it just isnt as easy to pick up on with a inertia dyno, i see it alot in cars that come in for dyno runs.... moving the VCT point up towards redline until it smotths out is the bst way to fix it generally between 6200 and 7000 yields the best results.

toe in is good for daily passenger cars, not so good for exploiting a good sport car chassis depending on the track we run lots of toe out i usually leave the rear about 1.5mm toe in per side (3mm total toe in).

i fly alot at the shop A/H there is a air bit of land around here (until the buildings get finished) My carpark is pretty good on weekends too. as for how yeah, the $1000 dollar deal could even be $10000000 as ive offered guys with a similar bet and all fail, im pretty average but usually can fly long enough to empty tanks but even i stacked it pretty hard just before xmas

hence the fact you tie it in an x pattern to the rear and front of the trailer... not directley down. On a std car it may be an issue but we are talking race cars and in 10 odd years have never had a tie down break even in the unfortunate event of the car collecting a roo and leaving the road, trailer (previous setup, and years ago) bounced a mutitude of trees.... At the end of the day it is really personal prefference. we tend to tow looong distances and find the trailer is heaps more stable at high speed (crossing the nullarbor and centre) if the cars is unable to bounce around on its suspension.... same principle as transporting trail and dirt bikes. quick note to to those who tow cars with wings MAKE SURE YOU SET IT FLAT as it makes a HUGE difference to fuel economy and speed.

i have used thier gear in SR's for a while as many customers supply thier own internal kits, the rods are ust the same as all the other taiwanse gear.

i did a comparison a while back on IBC vs BLITZ vs HKS etc and the IBC held its own against all the others and in fact was better than the HKS EVC (latest version)... i will try find the post as i had dyno graphs etc... i try and keep all the gizzmo controllers in stock as they are the BEST bang for buck around, and many cant afford the BLITZ DSBC.

yeah correct hook up is paramount we have done over 150,000kms towing in the past 19 months, and in 3 and a half years the race trailer and poor old GU patrol (second engine ) have done 210,000kms going to and from DA, G1, initial drift and general sprint days at wakefield, winton etc. i prefer to hook the rear via the K FRAME (just behind lower arms see pics) in a"X" pattern and the same on the front tow hooks, i personally NEVER hook throught the wheels on anything that is worth a damn as it stresses suspension mounting points and effects wheel alignment especially after long trips. We had the trailer made to make it easy to load, one of the highest priorities was no removal of bumpers to load, low tyre racks, lowered hieght to keep it under the GU's roofline (fuel efficiency), lightweight as possible, dual spares and longest ramps possible.

im happy to have a look at the bin's if you can send it over.

the american car is one of the "old" spare cars.

I was lucky enough to be in japan at BLITZ when abe-san built the kits for nomuken's r34 gtt, i have the bosch dyno graph somewhere (this is the same graph used in the option magazine as they were also there to cover the kit) it lost no bottom end and gained 35 rwhp throughout the WHOLE mid to top end on a 400ps car. i also bought a shload of these kits in 4 odd years back, few guys of here bought some like adzmax for "big red" and all have found killer results... pity they were dear and have since been discontinued.

Interesting i did a wear check ages ago on a customers engine when testing the drift/ coopers/ kn filters and the drift came up with a far better filtration /vs startup pressure. i wonder if you were unlucky and got a "bad" one. Ive used nearly 75 odd drift filters now with zero issues and only warrant my "built" engines if they are used at every service. Its funny as i just had to swap over a ryco Z411 (i didnt have a drift one left and could not get one there and then) on a customers Jzx100 as it was doing the same thing... fitted a drift one and problem fixed..... i think there is always a chance of getting a "problem" filter no matter the brand.

needs a retune.

if they tuned the cruise etc and so forth thy may have turned the 02 feedback off, a properly tuned ecu can return jus as good economy, theonly other optio is that they are shagged and causing the idle to stumble etc.. i quite recently had a V-spec GTR in with a Mines chipped ecu and it was tuned 99% perfect... i was floored as many ive had over the years seemed to just have bulk loaded maps but this thing pulled 260+kw off the bat and had the timing map done spot on.... the only issue was it was a bit rich from 5500 to redline 10.8 so i leaned it off up top and it made the similar peak (about 3-6 more) but at redline made 10rwkw more and a bit more torque. the limiter was alo set at 8800 other than that it was possibly the best "chipped" ecu id ever seen. I ended up not charging for a tune and only a touch up. NIZMO_FREEK go to someone who remaps facory ECU's, that way they can view the BIN file and compare it to ones thay have done and to the std BIN file. NISTUNE and DATASCAN can view these bin files.

nah it doesnt, should just be able to save the tune, then uncheck the "protect" ticks in settings 2 screen. i have a few customers come in with locked PFC's.... i also lock them on customer request as many have 'fast and furious" fingers and dont trust themselves...

got a built one here ready to go.... just gotta fight gary for it.

it was the wheels chrome slab wheels and sports cars should never be mixed. Maybe poon-tang brand tyres didnt help either.