STATUS

HAHAHAHAHAHA im a trust dealer and can tell you the TYPE M kits dont work as well as the blitz return flow LM kits, got back to back dyno tests to prove it and air intake temp logs to back it up.

why? bar and plate is not as good as tube and fin.....

sorry should note that this thing will pump well over 300rwkw with moderate boost, i listed it as 250-280 as that what most guys get with 15-17psi.

HMM i got an email form someone in the US who saw the PPG sponsorship on the S13 on drifting .com and asked about them... i found nothing on the website (gave him their number though) i remmeber seeing an email from PPG saying they would be on display in jan.

No pics

STATUS TUNING 63 Rodeo Drive, Dandenong South, VIC 3164 Tel: 03 9792 3333 Fax: 03 9792 5555 Mob. 0414 944 146

there is your problem...... put the two vacuum port where they should be and it will run smooth as silk.

most good tuners use start of the art wide bands (changed 3 weekly in my case due to the amount of leaded fuel i see on mine.) and tune all the above load points as part of a normal tune... well at least they should be.

if your on a budget and dont mind compromise i am happy to do the Z32 and R32 ecu's into R33 but PFC is a better option (IN r33 rb25det).

PFC is still the best option for r33, the remap is too dear and down on features, the rest are AOK.

^^^ agreed the link is very good, i have ahd no issues so far and they are worlds above many of the other ecus at the same price, in fact i like the link better than haltech. The link cant be too bad as other respected ecu gurus now sell them as vipec.

0.82 housing.

this is usually caused (form some ive seen come in) by too much timing in the map somewhere causing it to switch to the knock maps (richer). Best bet is to get some decent knock detection (gizzmo K-mon, knock box etc) and tune the car, switch it off and do another run if you find the AF changes copy your fuel map into the knock map by pressing KNOCK COPY button and this will ensure both maps are the same. Turn the car off and the restart it and do another run, and repeat. if the A/F is constant after making the two maps the same then you know the issue is your timing map (causing it to switch). Remmeber to richen the knock map up after your done fixing the issues in your timing map.. So far ive had no issue with shifting A/f values. The NISTUNE stuff is extremely good value for money and im yet to find any real limitations in 99% of applications.

actually the BK series is around 2.5mm shorter, can cause break down issues due to poor contact inside coil pack..

good mid and lumpy idle is an oxymoron.... lumpy idle is caused by big lift long duration cams....all designed for top end hp

^^ i agree that bumping the comp is a good idea, but what turbo are you running MIKE? as this is a prime factor in determining comp ratio.

OBX is a cheap chinese rebranding company. plain and simple.

V400

Had heaps of PM's asking if it is high or low mount, this turbo bolts directley to the std manifold in the factory low mount position.

Vic is the location send anywhere for $50. Pick up vic ok.

yep was going on a NEO

it wont really matter as a bit is actually not too bad..... on another unrelated note engine flushes are pretty much diesel anyway., so if your worried about it getting injected into the engine it will only clean up the carbon

how much for complete roller? body, gaurds etc whole car minus running gear. i have been chasing a laurel to put my spare 26 in. what state? if in vic i will come round asap.

really depends how much the machine shop decks the head and block, usually with both decked a 1.2mm head gasket will bring you back (close) to std comp.

turbo's i reckon.