STATUS

AFR's look fine.

Hmm not had this issue, i would try juggling the afm voltage in the output map to mid way between the two, bit on the rich side at idle say 12.5-13 instead of 14 ish and see if you can get enough cold start in there. without playing with it here it is a bit hard sorry.

SOLD, see it at a track near you

n)Definatley not necessary, but i run everything fairly tight, and being more than meticulous means (quite often) getting the lot line bored to achieve my prefferred clearances. Much like Piston to bore, i prefer yo run way under the spec sheets recomendation... if its a customers engine i like everything spot on.

im building a pretty crazy 26 atm for a customer so i should be sending one over there (mine) to test the waters first in about a fortnight or so..

It pays to get the lot line bored for peace of mind too, i usually line bore the whole lot and grind the crank to get my clearances spot on, so far not one issue with any of them (touch wood). It makes the bill longer and bigger though

if not spent a few minutes poking steel (staino) wool into it.

becareful not to go too silly, if the engine has some kays on it and you get aggressive and dissolve the carbon build up around the ring (lands, etc) etc it will blow smoke......

Fuel pump for sure. Stock rail is good for well over 400awkw (maybe more, but ive had a few RB26 in here pull well over 400 with no issues)

easy fix if your worried about your oil issue and the GCG turbo, ring the boys (GCG) on 02 9708 2122 they have never let me down and offer spot on info to customers, they also do ALL our turbo work (hi-flows, rebuilds). They are only Hiflow guys i can use reliably without fear of boomerangs.

i reckon it was bent Before it let go and it was not picked up prior., i have 3 rb cranks here (2x 26 , 1x 25) all with 4-6' bends in them..... and require a trip to crankshaft rebuilders IF i was to use them, which im not when a new one is only 1100. what exactly let go? windowed block or just noisey?

What ecu? there a quite a few R34 GTT's that come in with this issue and it is usually timing related... (with remaps, unichip and emanages etc) Another common isse is the wastegate all very easy to fix

response is wild i will post up one of the graphs in another thread, we have had about 5 bimmers through lately, some older 323's with after market turbos etc... Andrew is the man though, we are doing a step by step build up with one of his customers with a 335i its coming along nicely. thank you sincerly for the recommendation.

Used thier SR 2.2 kits and they work well, not as good as the jap gear but still very good.

you prolly nicked a o-ring and hydraulic locked it....

yup

this instructoin set is more for your newb ^^^ someone who cannot interpret the data they are reading, that said inducing a small amount of knock at at conservative loads will do no damage. The best way to do it is in a high gear low and low rpm before any real boost comes in. Ive been playing with a lot of late model twin turbo BMW's lately (developing flash tunes etc) and the K-mon has paid for it self tenfold.... these things run mid to high 13 AFR's on full boost making well over 200rwkw whichs means they are always close to the threshhold.

can you name the benefits over a G4? im yet to see anyone prove its any differrent? either way they are great units (vipec and G4) and better than a certain very popular sydney produced product in my experience.

correct an untied car gives a more accurate reading than one strapped down, the tighter the strapping generally the lower the reading. a properly strapped car will move forward onto the front roller without being bogged down between both.... ie over tight

will pay now if it falls through.

GCG or MTQ

(bear with the V8 comparisons as these guys tend to spend more money and get their built engines engine dynoed, jetted then chassis dynoed, i have yet to have a customer with a RB, JZ or SR engine dyno thier setup) yes we had a 3% differrence (over) our local superflow, i will see how reliable our conversion is once we get a 393 cleveland i just built back from them and fitted in a car hopefully the big stall (5900) does not make this too difficult, the chev only had a baby 3500 rpm stall (this car had a 112hp loss through the T400 and 10bolt) i expect the clevo to have a little more (9") but the boxes sap about the same, the trimatic is a bit better (but generally weaker) The last 351 clevo manual toploader lost 78hp from engine dyno to the dynapack. on some crazy high stalls there is a big differrence between engine dyno and chassis dyno due to converter slippage... the dyno can read 150-odd horses down on your average 500hp v8. ps nice cover up dirtgarage.

sorry i should have expanded more, based on his previous engine results on the engine dyno then on the dynapack we worked out the driveline loss (auto), with the new engine the "calculated" difference between the dynapack and the engine dyno was 3%. ps DIRTGARAGE you need to pipe down considering your latest engine life spans.... news travels fast...

L@ variant uses T67 rear wheels, so is able to produce more top end with minimal diff in lag.

whats differrent from LINK G4 storm? serious question, as i get asked all the time. oh and i see Vi-Pec uses a dynapack for development too http://www.dynapack.com/index.php?option=c...1&Itemid=67