STATUS

gt3071r or the smaller td05-18g is a good combo. Even a gt2535

hmm disappointing, upside is your a gun trouble shooter now

Yup its was Jame's (oh performance) car then Lebz bought the car and now the engine is in Shamal car. That engine is a $20,000 engine and has been on my dyno numerous times. its an awesome thing but to replicate it you would need to spend massive $$$ .... or bolt in a std rb25 and get 90% of the result... for $1000 to 1500

seriously just buy a rb25, better motor and doesn't have the drawbacks of thin cylinder walls and crap cylinder head a rb24 will have.. std rb25 will make big power all day long if tuned right. ps. im a rb20 owner and fan boy but even i wont waste money on a rb24.

surely they checked voltage? i suspect there is more to it? dodgy earth etc?

Geoff pretty sure aviaid or dry sump.com do a full rb26 kit (maybe an external kit too), they are not on the site but are listed somewhere... just cant find it atm, i just got a full AVIAID dry sump kit (3 stage) with largest tank, cast sump (billet avail), ati balancer and drive, breather / separator all fittings etc for about the same price as decent wet pump and large capacity sump here in aus..... 12 day from order in cali to delivery here in aus... awesome. Honestly any serious 26 i do again will have one of their kits. Speak to john schwarz @ AVIAID in chatsworth California, see what they have avail. Mazworx get all their sumps and parts via ARE http://www.drysump.com/index1.htm which also do some nice gear.

it will need to be in the cooler pipe just pre plenum as its a wet kit and need as much help with distribution as possible, 75hp will be super reliable if set right. make sure it has a min rpm setting (to stop blowing back) and only activates on full throttle and via push button.

spot on the money.

depends on power and exhaust size, regardless of merge type if the sizing is marginal your in trouble.

please no

different car look at folder name, unbelievably i did two that day i think it was Harris's car. i will check.

should work sweet but may prefer 13 at idle.

14.7 is stoich and its actually not ideal, each engine is different so some are happy to go as lean as 16 or 17:1 on cruise etc... some cars will only idle smooth at 12.5:1 and then when you add cams it all goes up in the air 350 is fine. you need to re calibrate your afm curve in the AFM voltage table. All my tables reflect engine afr to withing a few %. the one ive posted is manipulated to make it simpler to understand (edited out some parts) but will work fine on your car (ignore scale) onlce you recalibrate the AFM table your indicated AFR in the fuel table will deliver correctly.

need to plug in consult and lock it then set to whatever the ecu is reading... can never assume. Its common for the factory ecu to swing 5 degrees at idle and if you dont lock it its very easy to get it wrong... base ignition is the root of many engine issues... i reckon it is one of the most common owner induced mistakes we have to rectify for customers....

need to compare thin blue power line to pink line, more power with less boost. i have a feeling the exhaust manifold heaps here too.

no to the first 3 it should be a sliding scale (smooth too) and dont change the inj % numbers to tune it, change the map values.and finally no it does not read lower @ the front it reads spot on, if tuning at the rear you need to compensate for the cat (will read leaner than it is) i have attached a sample fuel map of a 350rwkw track car (abeit slightly changed before upload) we look after, its done 4 years of work at this power on std rb25 hence its a little rich up top but its a guide and use it only as a guide for sliding fuel delivery scale. ooh tune it with o2 off then turn it back on once finished, it will generally always give better results on (may need feedback ratio adjusted) unless the sensor is shagged.

sounds like it just needs a decent tune....std ecu rb25 is looking for a bleed (yes they bleed at idle.. that little hole on std bov) from the bov at idle too dont forget. plus you no doubt are not running plumb back etc with a bigger TB it all leads to a freaked out ecu... log your afm voltage and i bet it bounces around when you let off the gas etc.. I see 10-20 odd rb's a week and it will not run like std with the mods you have. Refit adaptronic get it tuned properly. std map in them is crap. If youve been chasing this same problem since april last year and still haven't had it tuned.... your nuts.... a few hours on a dyno will have it cherry.

for the big turbos playing with gears may help extend the top end but on this car it always trades off low and we are chasing results which fatten the low to mid... aimed at average setups with std cams and 7650 rev limits.... no need for more top end.For those who want more a set of drop in cammtechs on this 390rwkw will go 420-430rwkw with no changes to mid range as we did one not long ago.

Still utter junk though, only good for std boost.

yeah i hate singles on 8's im a symmetry kinda guy would be happy to pay ten times the amount just to have twins... plus the results are better. Bit delayed though now, the stupid dry sump setup has gone missing.... DHL are trying to track it down

post on the facebook gizzmo page the owner ray will reply quite quickly, i cant remember the wiring. its just a 0-5v output.

just got your email, will answer it for you tonight.

for 10 bucks chuck in a a new neutral switch. I have had some issues with idle stutters on decel with both nistune and pfc that look for neutral on decel to initiate certain idle control strategies.

should have CATs interesting 5.7 litre twin kando project on the dyno in about 3 weeks so i will post results here first... as i know 5.7 stroker kits are all the rage in skylines nowadays

easy... made 600rwkw with 6cm twins