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thats ^^^ the one (dial bore indicator) i forgot the term

You really need to use a outside micrometer and bore gauge (correct term???? )

NONE

i reckon someone did not get the clearances right. Bearings only die in new engines for two reasons DET and clearance.

chuck up the graph, and i will have a look for you (i have a new dynapack) torque is good but yeah power is a bit low for the boost, a .61 3037s made 289rwkw on my sr @ similar boost. when is full boost reached?

well it was loaded with house tiles and driven to ocean grove.... just to put some kays on it.... daily enough?

haha sorry yeah in torque the dynapack is the only dyno to give realistic torque ie close to engine dyno readings, luckily it has both readings, i just switched it accross to mainline / dyno dynamics figures this car pulled 4299nm.... big differrence. the only other car to come close to this torque was a 408ci blown v8 with 653rwkw and 1022NM, honestley without sounding arrogant there is no way your car made even close to 1083nm, i would expect closer to 600-650nm from your setup, which is still very respectable.

Ben get a few together and i would consider coming down with my dyno (hire a europcar 1tonne truck) it only needs 240volts so can even be run in a carpark or driveway if i could cover the boat, the truck and dinner at the steak house i would be happy. Individual tune prices could be worked out at a special rate if you got enough. we would leave fri and return monday. i have to do a similar thing in sydney for a few Drifters. cheers Trent

will get it up 2moro, yes std auto.

Made over 1000hp through 90mm off the shelf TRUST PETIR and POWER EVOLUTION systems. see thread. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Tu...88-t237291.html

nah adm and jdm same.

yeah it seems to read a bit lower than a popular mainline here in vic but on a 250rwkw car it is only about 10-15rwkw

Apart from a worn 4th dog ring it is actually very easy to drive... the tripple plate is light but bites quick and is the only tricky part. i have lived with dog boxes in street cars and a good one is actually (aprt fom noise) easier to drive as im lazy and am happy to slap around the town without the clutch

few reasons, but they are a very simple budget ECU that gives competant results (tuned them on 4age's and turbo hondas) i would seriously wait for a full 6 channel IGN and INJ model before fitting it to any of my customers cars.. till then it will remain the 4cyl base ecu.

speak to steve @ wolf im sure he has something you can start with. Unfortunately wolfs take more time to tune properley and most of the time one tune from one car does not always work the same on a similar car, im my experience anyway..

haha nah this car is a real credit to its owner and builder not me, for a car to come in a pull a final result such as this with no dramas at all is a rare occurence. Most big builds that come in to be tuned run into dramas of one kind or another (fuel delivery, piping etc) but this car just played ball all day... a stuborn boost controller and a change from coppers to GREDDY racing pro plugs (super fine electrode and number 9 heat range) were the only issues and once sorted saw us crack the ton. basic specs; tall deck 2.8 liter 280 degree cams T88GK 18cm not the 22cm which is most often used.... this is a daily driver and response was more important. (full boost was a low 6000rpm) HKS dog box ULTRA DLi ignition (HKS twin power equiv) std coils GREDDY racing pro plugs (coppers would not go past 900 consistantly) Powerfc Djetro Greddy plenum ARC cooler BLITZ 1000cc injectors we did a few pulls into the 9k rpm range but the 18cm housing rolled off after 8200 so we limited it to 8300, no doubt with the 22cm rear housing 1300 ood hp would be a walk in the park and peak @9000-9200rpm.

After a sleepless night last night anticipating how to handle tuning possibly australia's tuffest R34 GTT (built by James @ OH Performance) things went remarkably smooth. With a smidge over 2bar we cracked 1002HP ATW (746.8rwKW) and 1046NM!!!! more than enough to kill any illusion that i would be able to keep top dog on my own dyno with my own unfinished project (twin T04Z turboed 427ci windsor 77' LTD) Who said PFC's cant handle HP????

Well for starters the microtech's i have used over all the years never had simple features like interpolation (new one might ? ) between load cells etc poor resolution and various other things which make it a truly budget ECU (great for rotors though) To be the microtech is the last resort..... the haltech and VIPEC can honestly go head to head with tuneabilty and both give great results.

This is something i am happy to do and i will talk in the future, i was keen as (due mainly to your endorsement of it) to implement the full range and keep stock (EVO SUBARU, SR and RB) and include it in a advertising campaign worth nearly 14k but then to find that the distributor i had to buy from in Melbourne is not supporting the program (does not even hold stock) why should i bust my balls to promote a product that seems not to want any Melbourne sales growth.... My background is product procurement and market strategy etc so i understand the concepts of price protection and market positioning... i just feel burnt by the whole thing. As i said i love the Vi-Pec just not its distribution and pricing (paid more for it than what i do locally for a PFC D-Jetro which is just as capable ECU and i can get it faster... which shouldnt be the case.)

Nah but i get alot of tunes come in from other places. Maybe cause WOLF is local (melb) there is alot around. At the moment i do 2- 3 week. The only thing dont like is the Cold start it is evil on them (v4) ... prick to get right.

Legitimate question, why is it better than a link? if i knew the differrences then maybe it is worth forwarding it on to customers... i have used the VI-PEC and it is sweet but it was so much harder to organise than a PLUG IN LINK... also the VIPEC has NO margin and has to be bought from your competitors..... VERY POOR DISTRIBUTION. If they want to be serious they need to step up and be proffessional... PRODUCT A1, rest is a joke (IF your in Melbourne anyway as distributor doesnt even hold stock, i wanna hold a few to use and tune and i cant.... ). hopefully they sort this out as it is very capable unit. BTW LINK $1269, Vi-PEC $1699

NA has no squirters so the pistons have no notches, sr turbo pistons are usually notched.

yeah the old ones had long skirts and needed modding (see 4 posts up) but the new ones are the same overall length (crown to base) as the std pistons were from crown to notch... the MAHLE have a 5mm ish shorter skirt.

i drove cats RB26 from wangaratta to campbeltown in NSW to run the engine in (12am to 6amish) average intake degrees on datalogger was 9 to 10 degrees C..... gotta love GIZZMO phenolic intake gaskets

i reckon its cooked your ignitor too .