STATUS

Ahh yeah we were told that we would void warranty on our PPG gearsets if we did NOT use Redline shockproof, it may just have been because we were using them for drift. i will chase up some pics of the sump setup i used..

that is the result of det most likely nothing to do with the a/f. I have a few tough mid 300rwkw rb's running leaner than 12.2:1 that said in DJEMS position i would fatten it up as i know nothing of the timing map.

I have NA sr20's with td06's runing 19psi with emanage no problems. The emanage is a great unit if the user knows what they are doing.

hey seriously i would just dump some extra fuel up top to be safe, the tune is good but if you cracked 6th it was detonating and i would reckon that the tune was the cause. Knock 3 degrees off the map and add some fuel up near the limiter (depending on how you drive) im happy to have a look at it one night if you want.

there is more to manifolds than flow, think of a manifold as a sub box (theory wise) and you will be far closer to producing a quality item. Race Pace; 9762 9421 Factory 9 no.6 Hollway Drive Bayswater 3153 (Top workshop)

Im doing a VI-pec on monday so i will keep you posted on it aswell.

i agree if it is just a street car but we found the driftbox showed far harsher extreme directional (switchbacks) g-forces when drifting at than when we had the semis on doing a practice sprint day, the amount of burnt cranks in rb's from surge in s-series chassis is testament enough to use as much preventative equipment as possible, we run around 8.5 liters in our race car and the new dry sump setup for the new car runs more. If your doing run of the mill stuff, then dont bother but for the sake of $185 for the tomei unit it is cheap insurance especially if yo do end up modding the sump to clear the sway bar as it takes around 400ml away from the sumps capacity. http://www.racerindustries.com/store/index...products_id=613

I get a mate to tig it up, make sure to clean it thouroughly first though. i used 4mm as we have bounced the sump at certain tracks....dam tassie and their monstrous ripple strips (these pics were taken as this was my second sump) the original sump was killed in tassie..... was glad it was not sheet metal like a rb25 or it would have destroyed alot more.... a bit of knead it got us back on the track.. just enough to fill in the crack.

what oil? i have done a few but i remove the housings from the car and weld in an alloy square sump and fit the fitting in the side, does not protrude too far (about 7mm below std lowest point) as you go out to the side enough to get the correct size fitting. i stole the idea (sump idea) from one of the hollinger sequential GTR boxes fitted to a D1gp car i saw many moons back. ARC do a nice complete kit and i reckon it is impossible to beat value wise (part number AOCBNR32M-BL) it is around $1600 before gst and shipping and comes with EVERYTHING (cooler, lines, brackets, pump, filter and fittings) sorry for bad pics but the ARC parts book has shiny pages that my scanner does agree with.

Dodgy paint pic "P

to be perfectley honest the best upgrade ive done on RB25 is std RB26 individual TB's and plenum. on a std GTT (neo) expect a maximum increase of 40hp and no dips below the factory torque or power curve. The response of the ITB's is awesome and the flow of the factory GTR is great (nismo is better all round) but expect to pay similar money for the comlete setup when comparing it to a greddy setup with Q45 tb etc etc... I know RACE PACE now has the (BEST) conversion kit available for this swap, it is based on the BLITZ D1GP kit.

have you done any back to backs? my experience seems to be the exact opposite.

any sump pretty much fouls on a a/m sway bar. I run bits and peices from diff cars on our race car (R32 lower rad support, sway bar mounts, castor brackets etc) to get the best positioning of the engine and radiator etc... The Rb26 S15 im building atm is pretty much R33 from the firewall forward and R34 GTR from the rear doors back.

i use the Tomei or NISMO baffles. The std baffle is pretty average. There are only two holes to weld up and they are the ones the shaft travels through. Also remmeber to fill the engine oil up to the bump on the dipstick above the H (oil cooler would help too). They suck the sump dry pretty quick. i have marked the holes to drill out below

sold a fair few, out of stock ATM but expect $4200-4300, alot of coin but it is a killer kit. If your after a simple bolt on you can save alot of coin....

i would expect minimum 250rwkw.

26 sump is the way to go, just cut the diff off and spin up some alloy bungs to weld into the sides. We run a "c" section in the front corner to clear the big sway bars we run too. MAKE SURE YOU FIT A BAFFLE (std one is shite) AND DRILL OUT THE OIL RETURN HOLES IN THE SUMP......

I tune for a living and am happy to do all 3, NISTUNE (3 or 4 week, but mostly s13), WOLF ( about 3-4 week) and POWERFC (about 6 -10 week) BUT for your application POWERFC for sure. It has the best aftermarket support ie can be tuned anywhere. The wolf V5 is not a bad piece of kit but after doing quite a few i think the extra cost is not worth it over a PFC. PFC FTW

Clearing out the shed. Best offer. Item:1995 Nissan 180SX BLACK Age:1995 Condition: Fair to good, complete car minus front clip driver seat and engine and box (radiator fan etc all in boot) Price: $3000ono To Fit: 180sx : ) (What car) Location: Melbourne Contact: TRENT or CAT Comments: STATUS TUNING 63 Rodeo Drive, Dandenong South, VIC 3164 Tel: 03 9792 3333 Fax: 03 9792 5555 Mob. 0414 944 146 E. [email protected] E. [email protected] W1. www.uras.com.au W2. www.driftcat.com

interested in the front cut, upper / lower arms, and strut towers mainly (if str8) not worried about rad support etc as im swapping the towers into s s-series. is it damaged in the front badly?

Item: Near New Trust Power Extreme II nice street exhaust without being boomy or loud. Age: 3 months or 5000kms Condition: Near new, small scratch on base of rear muffler see pics. Price: $500ono To Fit: R33 GTS-T was on car making 330rwkw, no restriction. Swapped it for 90mm system and it made same power. (What car) Location:Melbourne (status Tuning) Contact: Trent or Cat Comments: STATUS TUNING 63 Rodeo Drive, Dandenong South, VIC 3164 Tel: 03 9792 3333 Fax: 03 9792 5555 Mob. 0414 944 146 E. [email protected] E. [email protected] W1. www.uras.com.au W2. www.driftcat.com

yeah they are small but like the 8cm they just seem to be able to stretch further than they should (on theSR20's anyway), i had a pair put aside for our next RB26 project (superlap) but i think i will swap the #7 housing on the k5 to the #9 and see what it goes like... if im not happy then expect twin L2's 6cm strapped to the side

They are DRY element like the TRUST ones, jpas usually dont use oiled elements as they know how much AFM's hate the stuff. The Replacement blitz cores are cheap and can usually be got overnight if you get stuck.

as we were comparing the GT2530 i was talking 6cm (dont expect over 220-240rwkw though) (i probably should have made that clear ROY, sorry) Wheezys is killer (my favorite RB20 setup to date) but is a 8cm and is my weapon of choice with a 4.3 diff ratio it literally laughed out at 270rwkw run i reckon with some serious head work it would crack 300rwkw easy.. (not the kind of setup that comes close to the GT2530 for comparison) In this comparo though i reckon the 6cm would be a wild ride, with any ratio. same response as the 2530 and a much steeper / broader power and torque curve. It would need to be special order, ive done a few 6cm on SR's and CA's and they punch so hard. Dont get me wrong though the GT2530 is a good turbo and is impossible to beat for VALUE but seat of the pants L2 is GOD.

tuff maybe you can supply me one of your "modded" versions next time to have a play with? i would rather pay some-one local (and a community memmber) than send the coin offshore ? providing of course they are indeed superior in the runner department.