STATUS

welll japan is 102 atm..... and i can tell you now my sard prices are so good it is qiute astonising

here is the R32 results: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Bi...20-t229575.html

Drop past whenever Roy it would be my poleasure to put it on the dyno for you...... 0$

coolers should NEVER be mounted upside down.

run a t/stat ours even with twin coolers heats up to to optimal temp and then stays there..... indefinately.

Used this to try a quick theory i had regarding d-jetro and other rb engines so i fired one up on a R33 first then fiinally fitted it up into this R31. Std Rb20 Rx7 injectors Thai plenum Trust TD06-l2 -20g (2 litre nirvana) rb26 d jetro 277rwkw @1.2bar 408Nm@6100 Real nice car to drive, lots of usuable power and screams like crazy over 4500 and has phenomenaly strong mid and top... will interesting to see it lap winton this weekend,

here is ours, but the new car 08 car has them boot mounted though with the trans and diff coolers..

All those who have been told it wont work or lose too much power without the VCT... forget it. R31, plenum and td06l2 killer R33 plenum and T67 killer D-Jetro conversions for R33 and R32 FTW I can now do R32 (rb20det) and R33 (rb25det) powerfc d-jetro SUPPLIED AND TUNED $1800 drive in drive out dynos up soon .

i wish, my shitter tank makes 180rwkw with a nice 395,596km's on the clock..... it turns fuel into noise and pollution... and of cause its a clevo...HEAT. i must admit i now need to claim back top dog on my dyno so ive fast tracked the tank....ditched the blown clevo idea in favour of a blown windsor stroker (427) possibly twin 1.06 a/r GT35 or 10cm T67's.... parts for windsor are far easier to track down.... Here is the car in question 408cube, peter starr supercharged maloo ute..... sweet car that honestley is streetable..... mini tubbbed with custom 11" HSV wheels... and full exhaust. will fix pics 2moro.

T618z's onli if your are definately 3l bottom end.... they are weay to big for your average 2.6l streeter... on a 2.6 liter they need big cams and headwork to work effectively... i have a few trust T618z recipies somewhere they gave me when we put together one a few years back.... all reccommend sitting them in their 1.5-1.7bar efficiency range. im personally not a big fan.... even though some of the trust turbos i rate very highly

sounds like lean out.

563rwkw @ 5888rpm 1013nm @4473 all @ 1.1bar dropping off to 0.9... if this thing held 1.1bar to redline i would hazard to guess a genuine 600rwkw pass easy. BTW the these are real world torque figures one of the only cars i really did not want to let leave, could have quite easily have kept this one

bahahahaha ive used all dynos in the past and now with the new shop get cars from all over vic, be it mainline, dd or dts and i can tell you if the dynapack is run correctley the peak power is very close to the dd and mainline... the dts seems to be 20rwkw higher (on a average 200-240rwkw) for some reason. On cars over 400rwkw the dynapck tends to read a bit higher as it is not experiencing the wheelspin, get a dd dyno to hook up and the differences are minimal. as for your qoute "how often do u drive with no wheels" what a joke the software requires final drive ratio to determine exact rpm.....the real question should be "how often do you drive on a big flywheel? as thats what your doing on a inertia dyno like dd etc...... this flywheel effect masks so many issues its a joke. BUT i do agree, leave the real results to the race track

give your tuner the right nine how old is the A/F gear your using?

Dyno dynamics do such a great job of bludgeon marketing in aus, that average joe thinks they are a good dyno...reality is they are great for shows but quite average for serious tuning. Look at what the leading manufacturers and tuners use worldwide and its easy to pick which dyno should be a tuners first choice... Inertia dynos just dont cut it for accurate repeatable tuning; just a few off the top of my head. NASCAR (Most teams) IRL (Many teams) F1 (few teams) WRC (Many teams) TRD APEXI HKS NISMO FORD GM Heat Treaments GTR (tuned by andre simon) Docile Evo lancer. HONDATA what do they have in common ^^^^^ DYNAPACK..

they are stock GTR gaskets, just looked at a set of 618Z's in storage.

^^^ as mentioned 4 posts ago ps do you like the nistune gear? im very happy with it so far and find it piss easy to use..... as long as the cars consult plug is working

BAHAHA thier zx10 and zx6 have won hypersport (1000cc) and supersport (600cc) bike of the year multiple times (both zx10r and zx6 came in 2nd this year)..... unfortunatley due to small budgets and a wierd company structure thier mototgp results are a bit lack lustre. i ride all brands and have a shit kicker 96' cbr600 atm for commuting but i used to have one of TKA (team kawasakis australias) 2000 ZX7rr and it was the best bike ive ever riden... even to date. Kawasaki built some of the best road bikes the average person can buy. other notables atm are triumph 675, suzuki GSXR 750 and the 08 CBR1000RR

problem is they (RTA) plug the datascan into the consult plug if it is dead they pull the kick trim and see whats there.... thats whats been happening here lately anyway. Pull the silver stickers off and mount them behind plenum on firewall (do it whilst plenum is off for nipple installation, lots of room)

if it is a kit they come with everything, ive fitted about 6 sets now.

to be honest, even if it was a pig i would not leave a customers car like that. im not make or model discriminatory as money is the same color from everycar. but yeah..

No spare holes, as intercooler is return type and takes up alot of the spare room associated with cross flow types, but we did talk about removing ALOT of material from the base of the fiter box in the future. Taking the lid off the airbox solved all the issues.. and netted 10rwkw gains, it stopped the drop off after peak power and held it to the redline. i let the car cool and took it for a drive twice once after the dyno and once the day after dyno too, from stone cold too, made nice power on the first pass through 3rd, 4th then subsequent passes induced more and more knock, This translated into a real word problem not a dyno problem... in fact it was way worse on the road as the small inlet hole in the filter box was drawing more hot air than it did on the dyno. Bottom line is i did back to back testing (3 days of dataloggit datalogging) years back on my GTR, twin blitz fiter kit versus std airbox and BMC filter (the best) and inlet temps on the airbox were colder until the car got up to temp then the skyrocketed, the overall flow increase in the pods FAR outweighed any detrimental "fairly tales" of increased inlet temps.... in FACT inlet temps dropped by a minimum of 5c and even more at hill thrashing speeds (70-130). The only time the pods were hotter was sitting in traffic for LONG periods of time, a quick break in traffic and they were normal again. POINT being if you are more concerned with cops than performance, stay with a well modified box or better yet get a M"s filter kit with enclosed chamber etc.., if your after easy performance burn it.

yeah use the std ecu backing plate, it should have been done but maybe they spent more time doing a killer tune and ran out of time to fit it... ? who knows..... important question is is the tune neater than the install kidding.

Just pulled a R32 off the dyno back to back testing pod and airbox: HKS gt2535, Z32, PFC and std airbox. with airbox and consecutive pulls lost power to the point of detonation, had to remove 8 degrees of timing comapred to first run to stave of det.. fitted pod, alloweed 10-12 degrees more timing after consecutive pulls and made 12-15rwkw more.... real word and a regular SAU'ers car.

^^^ agreed very rarely will i "virgin" start another builders engine..... just not worth the headaches if he/she has made mistakes.