STATUS

Low mount spaghetti manifold std manifold is junk over 300-330 as it works things waaay to hard.

I have a TRUST TD05H-18G going on the laurel as we speak, old HKS 2535 literally exploded... massive roller bearing failure lol Should be a good thing.

these pumps dont like draw large distances its very important not to extend the pickup more than an inch from the base of the pump unless you know what your doing....

Low Mount E85 std motor with drop in Cammtech cams. This was the first aussie car with kando T67 4-5 years ago and its still going strong. more info https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10151011723791813&set=a.10150265368356813.328814.728171812&type=3&src=https%3A%2F%2Ffbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash4%2F192602_10151011723791813_578569909_o.jpg&smallsrc=https%3A%2F%2Ffbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net%2Fhphotos-ak-ash4%2F320413_10151011723791813_578569909_n.jpg&size=1632%2C1224

biggest mythical mod... total waste of time....

i know of about 3 or 4 killer rb26's (70-120k kms) for $2400 no turbos. They have dropped alot in value over the past year or so. Best to split it up and sell.

Sold

gearbox is factory vl.

i may need the ecu so pricing has changed. i may strip it all apart and sell separate. Ive found too many goodies to sell for 4000. 5k for the full shebang or im going to strip it. 5k also includes brand new Di Philippo turbo back exhaust.

it will but this is a single cam.

literally bolt it in and drive, im putting it on the dyno today to check AFR and timing.... im sure nothing will be amiss as they build and tune 6 sec RB'S

email us [email protected]

Fresh Forged SAMMUT built RB30 300kw+ capable setup Full new motorsport prepped (heat and rub proofed) loom with all new connectors on every connection like CAS and injectors etc... New Top end haltech PS2000 with latest firware etc and tuned by SAMMUT racing. All new sensors and Ignition leads New GT3582R New 6Boost low mount manifold New Plazmaman intake and TB New HD clutch and 5 speed gearbox. Complete setup for sale bolt in conversion, all only done run in kms on dyno. $4k for the LOT... cheap as! Was built for circuit duties. We have just bought the car and the driveline is not needed as its going TT lS1. SAMMUT had the fasted outright and the fastest steel 6 cylinder (Rb) in the world (300ZX)

better radiator... it cant shed the extra heat from the condenser.

Work well just need the mounting flanges checked for warps, one or two came through in the early days warped.

i just read you have W2A, great in theory but dont generally deliver. In all but one car (dry ice cooler) we have gained more consistent power and intake temps by retrofitting a air to air cooler.

Rb loves simple header tanks too. Be sure to tap into the correct areas for it to be effective. My laurel with std r34 clutch fan and smaller pwr rad will not go over 93.

if setup correctly you should be able to lap continuously.... not cheap but its possible. this 350rwkw car will lap in mid 30+ degree weather and stay under 95c even after 15 hot laps (last year he did a whole 25min session @100%... much to my amazment). Normal operating temps are around 88c.

if your keen i will pass on the details to buy direct off the factory. just email me.

common, had 4 GTRS in before i left for the usa and they were all between 48-54 degrees in the plenum, if you measure ex cooler like on R34 GTR expect 30-36

do you have the software or only HC? there are a few tricks in the software. The pfc boost controller is pretty average tbh and only works if all the physical boost control components are spot on.. it really struggles with boost drop and soft actuators whereas a decent blitz dsbc etc will fare better. do you have preload adjustment on your actuators? ps move your vac source to back of plenum where factory gauge (mini vac line) comes from. its under the back of the bolt on wiring harness (black plastic cover with 3 or 4 hex screws)

thats an approach used by those who cant tune pfc properly.... ie no understanding of the backgrounds operations... there is a particular workshop here in melb that we are forever retuning, yes it makes numbers on the day but wont return decent fuel economy and have terrible transient response etc...

nah way different.

haha are you serious? why the hell are you baggin us out? this is the car from RVO i refused to tune.... twice..... first they dropped it off with a big gt35 something turbo and emanage with no injectors... refusal one... then they make excuses and drop it back with injectors and PFC but dodgy piping with massive air leaks like the idle return just hanging in the breeze... it still wasn't tune able so i told them NEVER to bring any cars to me ever again. No one will touch their work now google RVO automatics and you will see how many people have figured out how dodgy they are... that's why you cant get a tune no one will touch their work. Blame the workshop who did the work, we did nothing except say it wasn't tune-able.... maybe the fact they thrashed the shit out of it with a GT35 on std injectors was the reason it blew up.... AGAIN we did not do any work on this....

sometimes with R34 nistune there is a bad read / write and a particular address in the ecu we cannot access to do with crank enrich gets corrupt. Take it back to the tuner, it probably just needs the factory bin relaoded and the tune imported back onto the base.