STATUS

yeah this build was very reasonable, i have not seen another setup so responsive with the same power @ 18-19psi without being a stroker... all the customers ive talked to about thier setups about have been qouted charged at least 5k-7k more for similar results.. to me saving 5k-7k makes it a budget build.

no bingo on the v-band

here is a comparo. Price is similar to the HKS version not generic garrett (which is only half a T04Z) i had a look at all 4 players at the size i was after and the K5 seemed on paper to be the pick, its a shame they are not all the same flange as i would be happy to do back to backs on the dyno to give 100% accurate comparo's... maybe if some-one has a T04Z kit laying around we could "run it in" for them

^^^ they are a bit slow, but if you actually buy one online it comes pretty quick ... money talks

www.fc-datalogit.co.nz

i would pull engine, something has even scored your cam lobe.

same drive so no stress but find out why pump failed before slapping it back together.

marketing hype and nothing else. I sell garret, hks, trust etc and honestley my best advice is to buy a turbo based on its trim and result not the information contained in glossy brochures. i had a TD06-20g on a rb25 track car that was over 12yrs old that is still going strong.

I'm an emanage nut (but tune just as many PFC) and i reckon buy the datalogit you already have a great computer no need to pull it out. The emanage is killer but if people are struggling to tune something as simple as a PFC i am worried they will have an aneurysm with the EMU ):

depending on the trim both do similar jobs, on Rb20 i prefer to use the TD06S-L2-20g (remmeber L2) as it gives the best balance between response and top end. Expect 240-270rkw depending on mods and full boost 1.3bar by 4000-4300. Forget any other TD06 on there unless you are after big numbers the TD06sh-25g is too big and the TD06S-19c is too small.

18-19psi

what boost is it making at the peak of that lean spot?

i prefer 12v as it gives a cleaner signal.... less circuitry to pass the signal through. physics is pyhsics if its got 5v going in it can only have 5v coming out... so running 5v through the 12v circuit does not mean it gets boosted... the 12v circuit is really just a straight in/out bridge whereas the 5v input expects a 5v input and the circuitry is all 5v that it passes through. so simply you are running 5v through nothing when using the 12v jumper so it gets a cleaner signal.

cant be, i reckon he meant 1.3mm multi layer. 2.6mm would be shouse.

to many beers

depending on car if you trim up the injectors correctley you dont need to play with idle or cruise (closed loop) but some car i will either leave the o2 unplugged and tune both idle and cruise (to getter better than std fuel economy) or you can foole the o2... best bet is leave it off if you are having major issues.

centre

Ash, I have used V8 mufflers in a few cars i could not shut up, hooker mufflers do a nice aero chamber that works well in sizes up to 4". http://www.rocketindustries.com.au/descrip...?partno=HK21506

yeah agreed, i now include the run in procedure in the build cost and do it myself on the dyno, its very easy to put a few 100 kms on a motor safely and correctley.

haha its the whipping boy for large retail chains and sells for $9 for 4liters and on special i bought it for $4.95 for 4l needless to say i have a wall of gulf western for all my half finished and soon to be finished engines rated for cars up to 1983 gotta love those credentials..... lol it is seriously no wonder oil it is just cheap and easy to find. http://www.autobarn.com.au/products/10/68/4213846

use injector map 2 and set your scale from where you want to clean up, for example you have a weird spot at 6250 you camn actually run the map scale from 6000 to 7000 (6000-6500 etc) and have the scale real specific around your problem (see attached pic) you can do the same with timing. All secondary maps work on top of map 1 so any adjustments on map2 will be added to map1 ; so if you have plus 15% fuel in map1 at 6250 and 5% at 6250 in map2 you will have a total of 20% extra fuel at 6250. hope it helps

haha penrite is recycled too. i think your a little confused, there is no point putting good oil in after a rebuild as you need the engine to bed in (wear-in). i am an advocate for good oil but not for running in.... trust us cheap shit for run-in gulf western, GTX etc is the BEST thing to put in your mega dollar build not some $100 boutique oil. but seriously i have built $20,000 engines and run them in on gulf western.... and never had even one play up (build about 4-6 engines a month). Change filter after about 20-40mins of running. and top up. Put the good stuff in after about 600km and DO NOT BABY THE CAR, drive it normally but keep revs under control..

kkk is factory fitted to many supercars like porsche etc but blitz changes the compressor wheels to a specially machined turbonetics combo, the things last ages which is one of the reasons i went this route over a garret, they tend to take more abuse (material going through bearings etc) they are T3 flange but you could probaly buy 2 gt3540's for the price of one K5 but the GT3540 just dont perform any where near as good.

$15 freight. it would come close to fitting, i will see if i can get a gtst in to try it on.

if you want to tune in closed loop areas disconect the o2 sensor. Also dont use the airflow adjustment map use the injector map. happy tuning