STATUS

OK i can only go on what i ve tested myself. Car Model: Any Year: ANY Rim size: 17 x 9.5 Rim name/type: URAS NS-01 (copys include doritek etc) Rim offset: +15 Face type: normal Brake brand: ALCON Caliper size: 6 pot Disc size: 355mm Rim internal diameter: fk nose Car Model: Any Year: ANY Rim size: 17 x 9.5 Rim name/type: URAS NS-01 (copys include doritek etc) Rim offset: +15 Face type: normal Brake brand: GREDDY Caliper size: 6 pot Disc size: 355mm Rim internal diameter: fk nose

you can modify Z32's and Q45's into larger housings quite simply, it does require a scale adjustment and depending on placement can have poor idle charateristics if done wrong. Best solution is to fit it post cooler where it is usually 80mm anyway. Are you producing in excess of 400rwkw?

yeah i deal with a lot of manufacturers on a day to day basis in ROC, Taiwan and Japan and all are struggling to maintain reliable sources of titanium. Now im not say ing you cant get it you can in small qty's but to do a production run of say even 20 systems (small order like my last one) is an issue... even for GREDDY and other majors.

if it is part 58252 it should be direct fit, i use the tomei wherever possible (Sard equivalent) and it took bugger all to fit it. From memory the SARD is cheaper than the TOMEI... same part though.

i would be more concerned about head lifting and and main caps walking ... before you put the sump on fit some ARP main studs or else the rods and so forth are a wasted excersise, also fit a head stud kit.. Dont worry too much about some of the knockers on here as many have zero hands on (except keyboard) experience and just regurgitate other people's posts and assume its gospel. You will however have some hurdles and lessons learnt along the way, 800hp at the fly is beyond your equipment.....especially the head (just read its std) but half the fun is trying and learing along the way.... Nos, i like it and provided your sensible with your application is as safe as houses. i had 150hp going through this cast pistoned engine (full budget build) for 2 years and about 30 refills... pushed it to a 12.2 (119mph) from a 4.2l (fastest 253 back in the day) On your application and desired hp (250) i would definately go direct port, 200hp through a wet system is borderline even the 150hp kit i fitted to the 1uz soarer and NA z32 had distribution problems.

whats it worth? got a pic? any of the custom stuff is not worth the extra if it costs more.

haha rice.... edited cause im a cock and cant read

Cheers for the heads up ^^^ only drama is raw materials are getting scarce and expensive, even the big suppliers are geting rations i waited a fair while for my last shipment of PET-IR exhaust due to material shortage.

Go the GREDDY or if you can find one that does not crack or water inject number 1 ...a greddy copy.

Welding if done right will last forever, ive never had a welded R200 break.... only thing is a welded diff f**kS every rear bush in the car.... cradle bushes, control arm bushes, diff support bushes all chop out hell quick... i know every cheap ass drifter wanna-be has a locked diff (including me at many times when money was tight) but in the long term a 1.5 or 2 way actually is a better investment... shit the last few i picked up cost less than 600 ready to bolt in.... alot cheap than replaceing cradle and sus bushes and the occasional half shaft..

yeah they are sweet ACS in adelaide is the aussie distributor and seems to have the pricing pretty sweet, im a fan of the carbon gear and have used the ORC stuff alot. pedal is nice a light and the clutch is definately progressive enough for your mum to drive

its real easy to swap the bellhousings, im not a fan of the drill and tap technique... if you get stuck i have a few of both type behousings and am willing to swap for the one you need, but really there should be no eason to use your original one on the new box.

lucky for you the two seat manufacturers are located in melb. autotechnica do the entry stuf as well as some upper gear and Auto Concepts do mid to top end gear. google them brother.

Here are the settings i found most suited to the R32 i messed around in. FRONT: Toe 5-7mm total toe out Castor 6.5-7degrees MAX camber 2.75-3.00 degrees neg (wet drop to 2.5) R32 runs out of lock way to quick so get some uras spacers ($20ish)or some sort of extra lock tie rods (URAS, IKEYA, TEIN, KAZAMA etc) REAR: Toe 3mm total toe in (if beginner then start with 0mm) dynamically these things start to toe out during drift. Camber 1-1.2 degrees (2 degrees for beginner) R32 set cradle angle to nose down (R33 and R34 set in neutral) (dont follow whiteline instructions, last time i checked they were backwards ) GTR rear swayway is good and more importantly light, match it with an upgraded front from whiteline.

try opening the EMU program and NOT downloading info from ECU, then open a new file and input your info into it. THEN PRESS OK NOT THE APPLY buton in the settings menu. (also if you have bigger injectors try leaving the lag the same as the originla figure) Wheezys car had 555cc injectors but would only run with the std lag time inputed in there not sure why but it works fine.

Well my shipment finally cleared customs... broker had a brain failure and it got delayed 2 weeks but shit happens. I hope the turbo is better than their spelling (turbolader) i used a few of these K5's on larger 3l engines and on a GTi-R (high 300's) these things howl so i ordered one i reckon should suit a 2.6 (added a few housing to the order too just in case) also pulled in a huge favour from my friends at blitz R&D and got a ABE-san (D1GP R34, and BLITZ TAS 2008 supra fame) to knock me up one of his famous manifolds.. thing is sweet, nice short equal length runners and spot on turbo placement away from everything... and the material is killer (for those who went to TAS 2008 it looks like the ORC had on display material wise) This year we wanted something far more agressive (little laggier but with an very steep power curve), the T518Z were just to responsive and without external gates the car was quite painful to watch... sounded flat (due to no gate) compared to the competition even though it was making the power... Lets just hope the Kinder Suprise front cut engine lasts long enough for the new built engine to be finished... damn garage and kitchen (final assy) is a assembly line of SR's and RB's ATM and the 26 is last in line oh yeah beware of the black shitter/ sleeper....

no problems.

In sydney JIM from CRD is the only choice... Adelaide Simon from Morpowa, or Tillbrook. In QLD... well im yet to find some-one i trust. Melb Racepace or CREATD and in 3months once my dyno arrives...me... shameless plug

^ dyno is to hit and miss as ramp rates determine the relationship, a good boost vs rpm graph will tell you REAL life what is going on... a dyno can NEVER replicate this accuratley. do your mods and compare the before and after graphs.

problem solvered

yeah air speed needs to be considered on smaller stuff. So porting and cams and bigger anything can often lead to results going in the opposite direction.

im no expert on RB30/26 etc but ive asked the question a few times via a few contacts over there and all concur that running a rb25 balancer on a 26 is a definate no-no, this seems to be common practice over here as it provides more room.... they all mention "bad vibration" . many are happy to use the nissan pumps for mild street application, all said they use GREDDY, TOMEI or JUN for there big stuff though.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...20&start=20 bit more background as to whole topic and why i am so interested.

when you say you cant afford a JUN pump, what have you been qouted for it? and what have you been qouted for a nissan N1? i usually pay around 70000 ($750) yen plus shipping for a JUN 1013M-N001G unit. RRP is 98000 or $1050 worst case..

GREDDY TOMEI new HKS are all fine. the jun ones are pretty cheap too rrp 16000 yen (RRP $175ea) but can be got easily for alot less.