STATUS

yeah i refused to sit on anything but the N700 for 6hrs.... luckily they are pretty frequent, also it snowed hardcore on the way back so it was pretty cool for cat to experience.

Luckily KONI australia is based in vermont across the road from access perfomance. They have everything you could ver imagine KONI wise and they have some very competant technicial staff there that deal with many race teams etc.... if they cant sort it no-one can. what have you set the internal dampers too? the company is called toperformance

444cc and 0.5 as i posted only a page ago

yeah i reckon you guys are on the right path, titan for all the hassle overs no benefit... by the time you get it the right thicknes to resist the stresses it would be not far off a steel one for wieght... and i agree that staino is shite for manifolds. i am trying to get the guys that do alot of the D1gp cars (ABE-san) to let me know what kind of material they are using but he wont say... for the money the 6Boost ones are hard to look past. If i wasnt in such a hurry i would have got one off you guys as it would have been half the price i paid for ABE's creation but the manifold is beautiful and is warranted for life also.

stupid computer... posted twice. will see everyone again at TAS 09 for sure. (except for those i missed : P)

yeah, TAS this year was a bit too OEM and VIP orientated, dont get me wrong it was great especially for business (for me anyway) but even the big aftermarket guys said it was well short on highly modded cars compared to previous years. The blitz supra was killer and a stand out as was the weld JZX100 and a few others maybe about 10 in total. when in previous years it was like 50 or so cars that make you go HOLY SHIT look at that... and that.... and that. Got to experience the shinkansen (instead of flying to osaka and f*kuoka) was bit of a laugh, feels like your only cruising but shit they are quick... green car FTW... next time we will fly though as it just eats up to much time.

same shit different bucket.

they do but the bush spacing is slightly differrent, if one of the bushes is shagged it will not sit square. It is a worth while upgrade geometry wise if thats what your after. i tend to weld plates with the correct offset onto the cradle and do away with the bushes altogether.

i have the same clutch sitting in the garage, part are avail but depending on what you bought the clutch for will cost you that price again. EXEDY australia can supply new discs but they prefer you to show them to them. where are you located?

NO

The 14cm makes them actually quite responsive for a big single into the 4000rpm range but 700hp will become a pipe dream. If the K5-700R on cats RB26 is not reponding the way i want it to im going to go T78 14cm for drifting this year. I drove a T78 17cm GTS-T whilst in japan this trip and was very impressed at how flexible it was drifting with a close ratio box, creatd have one also here in aus and it is killer also...

cheers, gonna fit a new clutch as im not happy with whats in there now..... ORC or something.

Sorry been in hk, china and japan til tonight. If your std comp has both wires joined at the ecu (i think i read that above) there must be an issue somewhere in the car. The front cut i got to use in cats car was the same... it turned out it was mapped to run them this way. i would join on the emanage harness both maf wires so it sees the same signal the ecu was before.. should fix your maf signal fault. i would also look to see WHY they are spliced at the ecu just in case there is something that may bite your ass later on down the track.

just for drag? if so look at a gearset from ppg or osgiken and in that order. i have a modded 4wd transfer for sale if you get stuck doing the 4wd - 2wd mods. the GTR CANNOT be easily trasnsfered into at GTT or GTST box housing. It is easier to mod the transfer case or sell the lot and buy a gtst or GTT box. do a search in driveline i have written a few things on the GTR box conversion

you need to fit it all up then tighten the bolts or else it wont fit up str8, imagine a bit out at the cat (both F & R bolts) then a bit more out at the centre join and you are gonna be prety close to anything. loosen the lot off then nip it enough to move it into position then tighten. i 100% know it is in the positioning not the exhuast..... i have never had one not fit and we have sold container loads ....

Timing wont change as the inert part of the gera stays in the same position in relation to the crank.. only the outer advances or retards. Beware too as i have used a few of the cheap ones lately and found them to be timed way out IE 0degrees is actually closer to 8 (cant remmember if it was adv or ret) so if you getting cheapies then check the cam timing first. I first found it on AROSPEED Sr20 gears where they needed to be advanced about 9-10 just to get lost power back.....

WORST reputation eva...

this was covered within the few few posts on page one.....

id rather stab my self than use those. for under 2k atm you could get a set of greddy type S coil-overs with electronic damper controllers from autobarn CRD etc.

i can tell you what result your gonna get for 100-500 you also consider the $$ per HR... a $100 is gonna last maybe a few months a $500 one a year or two and a decent 6boost or top level jap one will last nearly indefinately... i have NEVER had to replace a cracked or damaged brand (in house manufactured not out sourced) name steel manifold for anyone other than a few that recived impact damage during accidents. I have had some steel manifolds on cars for over 10 years.

interesting..... i have sold maybe 20 ORC/BLITZ clutches and ALL came with the carrier and bearing.

design in itself is a compromise and all designs have their compromises and bad points, there is so many ways to achieve the same result at the end of the day look at your application and your budget and work from there. The only wrong choice is cheap and never pick the shiniest if you think for one second the grade of steel (not what they say they use but what is actually used) coming from these cheap suppliers is the same as the top end guys? your dreaming, it took 4 or so samples for us to get the right steel whist putting together a range way back in the day.

everyone needs a sales gimmic or drawcard or else it is just another manifold... BUT seriously the 6boost manifolds are good only negative is they are way too heavy. best local gear for miles and have nevr had an issue with any ive fitted for customers... but in this case is irrelevant because they dont do a factory placement manifold for rb20 or rb25....well they didnt last time i checked. All the pics WARLORD listed are for RB20/25 factory position

http://www.redlineauto.com.au/ im not sure what they can do price wise as i buy as a wholesaler on account.... they are the distributor and only qoute retail. You will usually find autobarn or repco are happy to talk deals.

nah pull FTW, due to the conical shape of the fans and no condensor fitting the rad further back you would have heaps of room to front mount them, but i prefer pull type over push, the only reason i mentioned it was to save cutting metal... only need to shorten rad hoses.