STATUS

$599 from autobarn atm, if you are willing to wait (ive quit so i can plug them now ) i had a container coming of the trustLS type which is the new tube and fin not the shitty bar and plate type it will be around $599-$649 and lands early jan into thier warehouse. im pretty sure they had sold out of our first shipment before i left.

i refuse to use slip-ons, in drifting the abuse always ends in tears, bolts -ons are the only way to go.... but in your case pull the wheels and tyres off and take them in to your tyre place of choice... they cant refuse what they cant see.

identical even.

bolts straight up perfectley with no mods, wiring and shite needs mods. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...eddy+plenum+r34 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gr...=plenum+r34+gtt

^^^^ UM i just told him NOT to get the product i stock........

all the info is in the kit, even though it is in jap it is easy to follow. shaded ares mean trim or cut, even the hole measurements and parts are listed numerically in english next to each picture. fmic will be fine till you change exhaust, leave boost std till you do... save working the turbo.

r32 cooler std is not too bad, not much use over 300rwkw but the later 34 ones are good for a bit more, i use the same trust core you just bought on the car in our avatar and spent alot of time on the dyno playing with ECU's and doing datalogs on three coolers (std, JJR and the TRUST 115mm one). i noticed whilst tuning it that the inlet temps are far more stable even over about 20-25 dyno pulls... the equivalent of road/circuit driving. The std one was pretty shit after about 10 pulls. the more stable inlet temps allowed more agressive tuning and more power. if you were to tune for one run on each cooler though they would pull the same power but after about the 10th pull with an aggressive tune and std cooler you would be well down on power due to the inlet temp ignition retard map winding in. dont pay to much attention to the knockers on here, half of them just regurgitate shit they have heard or read.... not real world experience. i gaurantee your car with the trust cooler and a decent tune will be making peak power for more laps around a track (or more strip sessions and dyno pulls) than the same car with the std cooler.

yeah on some of the metal headgaskets in engines i build i will use HYLOMAR spray or VHT copper spray.

yeah the kits come with a nipple that fits in where the bleeder goes and its works fine, in fact i have stopped doing the crazy three bleeder setup with custom AN fittings in favour of this setup for all but the wildest setups as it seems to work perfectley. as fr the lower hose just go into autobarn and get a DRIFT radiator hose adapter ($19 ish)and it will take about five mins to install. below is the greddy equiv but at twice the price, plus i like the drift one as its black.

YEAH rotomaster via CREATD that way you get a good job or MTQ laverton. GCG very good had them do a few for me over the years, KKK, TRUST and garrets all with no dramas. They have the best equipment in australia FACT.

should be ok.

yup and S13 and S14, best shifter upgrade too....

that looks 2jz ish or maybe the photo is inverse.... cause why the hell would you run the gate that way??? EDIT: just had a close look and im 99% sure it is 2jz or 1jz. i think that is just a pic they use for refferrence.

tuned or installed incorrectley 1000000% r33 is a piece of piss and works fine... done around 30 now.

its good to run them on just about any engine especially the RB26 and aftermarket plenum'd 2jz's, i will post up some pics of it installed on the driftcar in my sig. bottom line goes to lower rad hose. Make sure the swirl pot is the highest part of the cooling system. In supras it usually needs to be in the back right side of the bay. Ignore the air in the lines on the supra, it was before the recovery bottle was plumbed up.

no different, i will post up part number in 10 edit: cant find it ATM but ring RDA i used to use them or dba when upgrading to GTS-t calipers on a 4-stud S13.

GTR has a differeent main shaft also, i have done a few here are the threads. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...ny-t164613.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rw...hl=gtr+transfer

nice

this is by far the most effiecient way of doing it on a skyline (if fitted correctley DOES NOT affect ground clearance), we did back to back tests BLITZ LM SPEC vs TRUST TYPE R on a r33 skyline and the intake temps on the BLITZ were far better even after heat wrapping the cooler pipe that crosses over near the radiator fan. if you think about it too the air leaving the majority of the core only needs to change direction via the lower 90 degree as the air is already travelling down the end tank... another thing to note with BLITZ cores is that they vary the fins inside the delivery tubes. They are tightly pack along the bottom and become "less dense" as it goes up the core this improves cooling as the charge is distributed over the core better.

HKS SSQV best sound TRUST type R best function for big turbs std bov works fine No bov is fine also.

^^ i like the innovate gear http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/ ( i personally use a LM-1) from rocket industries as it has plenty of add-ons and the LC1 is cheap too and Guilt-Toy yeah your right in the tailpipe is no good for idle etc.... more info http://www.titanmotorsports.com/lmdiairame.html

you will probaly get more power after the tune down low, not more power than before the FMIC was added.... but more power than what it is making now. i find you can usually wind in a bit more timing . honestley i would do a few more mods then look at a tune, remmeber if the cooler is a good cooler (not a cheap bar and plate jobbie) the gains from a retune will be higher as the soak threshhold is higher and you can afford to leave more timing in up top, without the worry of det. Aslo a better cooler will have a denser charge so if its map based you can run into issues and there is more chance of problems... as your is afm based you dont need to worry.

Data Log Lab Support www.dataloglab.com check it out

al long as we dont end up as arrogantly stupid as them i dont really care

How cool is this, whoever wrote this should be the next PM ! What a brilliant idea.... Message from a hard working Aussie I work, they pay me. I pay my taxes and the government distributes my taxes as it sees fit. In order to earn that pay cheque, as I work on a mine site on a Kalgoorlie (WA) construction project, I am required to pass a random urine test, with which I have no problem. What I do have a problem with is the distribution of my taxes to people who don't have to pass a urine test. Shouldn't one have to pass a urine test to get a Centerlink Payment because I have to pass one to earn it for them?? Please understand - I have no problem with helping people get back on their feet. I do on the other hand have a problem with helping someone sit on their backsides drinking grog & smoking dope. Could you imagine how much money the Government would save if people had to pass a urine test to get a Centerlink Payment ????? Please pass this along if you agree or simply delete if you don't. Hope you all will pass it along though, because something has to change in this country, and soon!