STATUS

Make: S13 SILVIA Model:SR20DET Milage: Transmission:5SPD REBUILT Colour:SILVER NEW PAINT Location:MELBOURNE Complied? YES RWC supplied?YES Currently registered?YES Price:13500K ONO Contact:TRENT OR CAT 0414944146 0419590220 Comments / Modifications:SEE BELOW Images:ATTACHED Car has brand new 2pack paint (was factory two tone silver and gun metal and i HATE two tone) and genuine uras bodykit, new HSD coil-overs with 3 way adjustment, castor and toe rods, full front and rear skyline R33 brake conversion as well as r33 front control arms, extra lock etc, upgraded lightweight jap swaybars, new URAS wheels and TYRES (decent TOYO tyres no chinese shit), east bear racing bucket (slight rip) . Interior is imaculate and has a MOMO Race not fitted atm the interior is unmarked has late model door trims. it also has a full set of URAS tail lights and clear indicators. Pioneer cd stacker fitted atm or can remove and fit a double din Panasonic cd/md instead. FMIC, new TRUST T518z turbo, GREDDY Profec E-01, NISMO 550cc, Z32 and new Walbro pump fully tuned PowerFC, new PeII trust cat back with URAS titanium tip extension (not fitted in pics) front pipe and TRUST dump pipe. It also has a NISMO 2-way diff (not to harsh) S14 gearbox. This is ready to drift competitively and was setup (full suspension setup) up as a spare in case the yellow one was involved in an accident, or alternatively as a very neat streeter.

yep this country is fkd.

still got the coils? i figured out a fix for them. will pickup whenever.

make the effort to get to DT panels in springy they just finished our streeter and he is the only place in vic who touches our cars.

Drift do their own rails now to suit the seats. available from Auto-Concepts or Autobarn. im putting a set of Drift blades with their rails in our streeter.

the spider gear (x shaped) support looks fine as does the housing but i really need a pic of the casing to identify 100% what it is.

S13 6 BOLT DRIVE SHAFTS ARE WEAKER THAN R32 SKYLINE, the first upgrade to any drifter is to remover the 6 bolt driveshafts as they are prone to breaking and cracking.

***********SOLD**************

^^^^wtf?

^^^ Simon its common knowledge even the melb garret distributor knows the int gate is too small to work correctley.... he was the one who recommended a reah housing swap. as for PM-R33 with the HKS GT-RS issues i havent had any dramas so im sorry i cant help there.

give it a fresh hone, fit new rings into bores without pistons and meaure the ring gap. do this in three spots (top, middle and bottom) and check to see if it is within spec. As for the valves i would check to see if they are sealing correctley (drop thinners down that port and see if it leaks past valves... bit dodge but it works) and then check the spark plug colors, if the second cyl has a light plug too it could be the mixtures... bikes are easy to tune what carbs are on it? check to make sure both needlles are on the same "clip" if they are and cyl 2 is still lean lift the needle up a clip on cylinder 2 and recheck plug. i would get heads cleaned and checked anyway while they are off for safety sake myself.

simon the only way we could fix this problem with JT's car was to swap rear housing or go external.... by that time he was over it so we sold the lot off and fitted the T67 (more response same power less boost). i hope you find a solution cause yeah even with the gate wired fully open it made around 18psi...... i cant believe they sell this shit over the counter.... dodgy ass mofo's

sold to you pending payment. sorry for the mis-communication... i just checked my phone and there are another 5 messages from SAU members...crazy response everyone wants it

nice turbo, the boys at creatd just made over 400rwkw on a rb25 with one of these, full boost by 4500-4700!!

change plugs then start trouble shooting...

whiteline

there must be another issue... to scrub out tyres that quick must mean something is either toeing in or out massively... like 10mm or more

i never said they were unreliable, i just dont like the power delivery and thats what i compared to KKR..... and if you read my post carefully you will see that my point was if you want a cheap turbo cause you cant afford something decent they offer value for money.

exactly and if your mega paranoid and a little tight for cash just fit a cheap JJR oil cooler..... temp issues fixed. As for extended cool down before shut off forget it.

280+rwkw at 1.2bar and 0.7bar @3300 1.2bar by 3500-3600... used a 8cm housing, i swapped out the 10cm. Just did a R33 here in melbourne killer setup but i road tuned it so i have no figures to post up.

a) mostly self taught but i must admit i do a minimum of 3 a week.

if it is a late r33 try airflow change to RB25DET NEO, sometimes helps.

Cool remmeber with these any spike is ACTUAL knock so just keep an eye on it. maybe my shop will be opened by then you can run in my new dyno oh as for the afm map change the scale to throttle position instead of afm volts this way it only give full throttle enrichment or cruise adjustment... makes for a nice smooth map as all maps work on top of each other.. ie in some rare cases where i cant stop a flat spot i will use INJ map 2 and change the scale to cover the problem spot (lets say 3500rpm as an example) i will change the rpm scale across the top to start at 3000rpm and end at 4000rpm this then gives me crazy fine tuning as the map will be 16x16 and the rpm will increase from 3000 to 4000 in 50rpm and 100rpm increments.... this whole map adjustment works together with the other INJ map.

what is the serial number on the back?

no issues with the new version, i do however dont recomend it to guys who have worn syncros (crunching into gear) as it will shorten the already short life of the worn syncros. put simply if the box is in good nick it works fine and wont give any hassles, if the box is fkd and crunces into gear it will only make things worse..... but hey good excuse to change your synchros anyway.