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not the plenum we did back to back on cats car with the big greddy one and it made bugger all difference to bottom end torque even on a small 26 @ 400-420rwkw

for idle the single most important feature is latency and voltage change. Generally i tune the whole car, then initialise then reload tune and do idle learn last... gives the best results. Another thing is rbs dont like idling at 14.7 generally unless everything is spot on....... 13-13.6 will often give the best vacuum.

check the ECU male plug has not bannana'd when it was done up, the far ends sometimes dont seat only the middle and it can cause a missfire.

damper and anti drain

Gizzmo showed me this so i shelved my kit. https://fbexternal-a.akamaihd.net/safe_image.php?d=AQCk45QmLNoxrRQg&url=https%3A%2F%2Ffbcdn-vthumb-a.akamaihd.net%2Fhvthumb-ak-snc7%2Fs403x403%2F409854_4006399591618_4006397111556_45510_558_b.jpg&jq=100

as long as its over 70 its gonna make sweet fk all difference, your tuner would tune it to be safe on both as its only minimal fueling adjustment and should not need a ignition adjustment on a street car for only a 10% ethanol change.

Kelford and cammtech cams have both given us good results

Make sure you go twin screw like a kenne bell or similar the vortech and centrifugal stuff suck. I have plenty of back to back dyno graphs on different engine if your interested.

it will have no issues but the config is a real headache (everything i was told setup wise turned out to be incorrect), it took me 1-2 days to nut it out as i was terrified of doing an accidental valve job we are talking big angle adjustments so things definitely hit.

its nothing like vct, vct is a fixed on off, VCAM is the same as scottys vq25 setup but only on the exhaust side (from memory the vq has fully variable intake and exhaust). its simple enough in theory on a factory built motor where rpm and advance / retard is predetermined but on an engine not designed around it things go bend and snap.... it is very easy to kiss valves so all the thresholds of retard and advance need to be carefully measured is not just a case of winding in 20 degrees like vct does. This travels alot further among other things. The hks controller takes care of all the end points once you input the zero point... i had to work it out with a dial indicator as we have no zero point

No its not. and no it cant

It picked up over 40-60rwkw @ 4000-5000rpm..... and 20rwkw just about everywhere else..... are you retarded? oh and more importantly over 100nm at 4700ish rpm and 50rw nm everywhere else.... peak power is irrelevant.

Bit like the new 86, direct injection with conventional second set.

ditto bingo alpha beta

Your dyno is setup wrong, whats the HP correction mode? sounds like its the old din or STP mode that reads flywheel.... it should say SAE 2004 which is the latest correction method up the top of the dyno sheet like these. I have the latest dynapack and can tell you there is no hope in hell that car would make that power if the dyno was setup correctly. Post up a graph so we can see the correction, it will help your tuner get more realistic results. https://www.facebook...ChequeredTuning

it works perfectly well, there are good trim tables for fuel and air via AIT too... there is a very good reason Nissan used slow reaction sensors.

DIrect injection can do it without issue, for us dinosaurs though no hope.

Run bcpr7es

Yeah only turn the feedback on once the tune is finalised.

^^ exactly what needs to be done in certain areas, some ecu's struggle. its always going to be less kays per km but its manageable.

shitloads here in vic and cheap, had heaps on info on my facebook page awhile back, was going to make sr and rb bellhousings but i got lazy. i know of one place that has around 30. Use this shifter and you are king

it can be tuned to give great economy, i only have one or two cars giving me massive headaches in the economy game atm... trying to get to the bottom of it as we speak but generally its not an issue, i did a whole calder track day on one 60l tank and could have driven home... same as on 98

yeah it works on any stand alone, yet to find one we cant use we did some haltech flex systems not long after the first link one we did a few years back.

should not be an issue, yes the r34 nistune has less tuneable addresses than other nistune ecus it wont have an issue (most are cold enrich issues on e85 on really big horsepower setups) , i do however recommend running the std bov to help alleviate the stalling... it is an issue with some setups on r34 ecus. We have made mid 400's on r34 nistunes so they are capable, you may just need to make a few compromises.

^^ Spot on, definitely the best advice.