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it does actually but your right those rear mufflers wont control the noise, must admit though marky mark is without a doubt the best exhaust shop in aus. im sure if you go back and say i want it quieter he will do it. i wish i had the oppurtunity for him to do my ltd exhaust he has done plenty of work for me in the past and shits on anything else i have seen from anywhere.

^^^ haha yeah too true, tricks from the go-karting days its used as a release agent. Many octane boosters use it also. See below breakup of a high end booster stolen from an additive website- the common "real" ocatane boosters are prepared with a first mixture of 50 to 55 percent by weight of toluene, (15 to 18%) percent by weight of methanol, 12.5% by weight of isopropyl alcohol, and 6.25% by weight of mineral oil as the base ingredients this is then mixed with a second mixture of 31 percent by weight including of a mixture in the following percent by weight: acetone (10% to 20), methanol (20 to 25%), toluene (30 to 45%), and xylene (7.5 to 12.5%).

dont forget to add acetone too

Z32 is the same as R33 (e-brake) so you wont have an issue providing you use the correct handbrake shoes. Decent cables are a good start as old stretched ones reduce effective adjustment. You get a very sharp engagement and it does not play with pedal feel and if set correctley uses very little driver effort to lock. we were actually the first car in australia to use hydraulic handbrakes in our driftcars but have since gone back to cable operated setups. (Cat has a hyraulic still as she sits to far forward to use the cable setup). my old 180 had no issues locking 265 r-type tyres on 12" rims all day everyday.

^^^ In the words of James Hetfield.... "sad but true"

^^^ piss the lot off and just whack in an emanage skyline plug and drive kit 550-600 for timing and fuel control. piss the FPR off.

use it next time you go fishing honestley i would go PFC in the GTR.

cam timing is very important

dont know, that is not a combo i would ever consider building as its a mismatch 1 bar of boost and a limit of 7000 to get 500hp would requie something big and useless... you would be better of with 1.2-1.4bar 7000rpm limit then we would be talking my sort of setup.... emphasis on mid range torque spread, done to maximise the power spread from the on point to the low 7000 rev limit. better to get the turbos working a bit harder to make that 500hp yet not run out of useable revs.

fair side track but speaking of EVO's i coulda had this super lap car in the shed for a measy 30k

ps your car is the shit, best 32 in vic.

cheers guys, i will get some more pics up tonight.

unplug it

use your s13 hub carrier but fit the R32 hubs and brakes to it (r33 brake cables work best) see this link i did years ago. that way you can use S13 coilovers http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...;hl=5-stud+uras stay cable with the handbrake and use URAS drum shoes form this guy in the US, http://www.uras-usa.com/index.php?main_page=index i guarantee a better result than a hydraulic. here is some pics of the gear as i see he does not list them http://www.uras.com.au/syohin/brake.html if you get stuck we could probably send some over.

cheers, hows yours coming along?

hell yeah, finally some-one else with sense. so many times i hear i got a 550hp turbo running 15psi.... what a waste of time... but in the end 550hp is bragging rights and most would not know a good setup if it bit them in the ass.

yeah the emanage needs to have the car type loaded before you start it up, the new harness dont require any pin swaps.

i baldy locks'ed it for you http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi....cSELL.m315.lVI

nah the 26 is sorted now, the T517Z's where too linear and responsive, cut killer laps but hated drift. not agressive enough but hey. This time i get to build what i want for the 26 much like i did for this SR ...not what im asked to build responsive lazy power was the ask but agressive is the only way (i actually built 3, 2 for mates and one for cats car but cats had differrent rods and cams)... you being a ns.com poster would know the other two cars the engines went into.... 180athid and godhand.

S13 SR20DET COMPLETE ROCKER COVER TO SUMP ENGINE (COMES WITH ALTERNATOR, STARTER AND ENGINE LOOM, INJECTORS NOT INC), THIS ENGINE WAS BUILT AS A NO-EXPENSE SPARED EXERCISE AND SHOULD HANDLE JUST ABOUT ANYTHING., WITH A SMALL TRUST TD06S L2-20G TURBO KIT MADE A LAZY 279RWKW @ 1.3BAR WITH A LARGER TURBO HIGH 300RWKW WILL BE NO ISSUE. Engine Specs: JUST SOME OF THE PARTS USED….. TOTAL BILL WAS OVER 12K!!! GREDDY PISTONS 13525802 $1559 GREDDY H-BEAM RODS 13525401 $2499 CARILLO ROD BOLTS ARP MAINS $189 ARP HEAD STUDS $249 GREDDY HEAD GASKET 13521328 $329 GREDDY VALVE SPRINGS 13523801 $329 GREDDY STEP 2 CAM 264 11.5 13525209 $499 GREDDY STEP 2 CAM 272 11.5 13525210 $499 GREDDY CAM GEARS X2 13523303 $469 GREDDY SUMP 13525901 $549 GREDDY ROCKER STOPPERS 11522050 $139 ACL RACE BEARINGS FULL MACHINE WORK FULL HEAD RECO FOR THOSE WHO WISH TO USE IT AS A COMP ENGINE I WILL ALSO INCLUDE ALL THE MODIFIED COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS, IT HAS ALL THE MANIFOLD AND HEATER LINES WELDED UP AND IS DESIGNED TO RUN WITH A REMOTE HEADER/SWIRLPOT. THIS ELIMINATES ALL HOSES EXCEPT FOR UPPER AND LOWER RAD HOSES. THESE COMPONENTS ARE ALL BOLTS ONS AND CAN BE REMOVED TO FIT THE STD PARTS IF YOU WISH. FULL MACHINING WORK, DONE TO A VIRGIN BLOCK. TORQUE PLATE HONED, DECKED, LINE BORED, HEAD FULLY RECONDITIONED, NEW LIFTERS, VALVES, VALVE SEATS AND GUIDES. THIS ENGINE HAS DONE 5 MEETINGS AND IS AS NEW, IT WAS STRIPPED FOR INSPECTION AND HAS HAD A BRAND NEW 1.2MM HEADGASKET INSTALLED. THE ONLY REASON THIS IS FOR SALE IS THE CAR HAD A RB26DETT TRANSPLANT. CAR RAN ONLY THE BEST ENGINE OIL AND WAS CHANGED EVERY MEETING. $6000 ono have a set of cams to sell see link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ch...ml#entry3548334

yes it will

For most setups both tune the same and one takes no longer than the other, the std PFC is good for whatever AFm you choose to use. i tend to use the d-jetro for radically cammed engines as it actually tunes up quicker... generally speaking the std PFC will offer better fuel economy.

^^ i wll get some pics this we for you and list the exact parts i used. (via pm) i have sold the turbo kit and so forth off it so i will take pics (post here) after they are all removed it will be easier for you to see mounts etc

i think youve hit a small child. stuck in airbox.

a few tricks, but actual bolt in is all off the shelf wrecker parts (i just grabbed a handful of shite i thought would work and had a play). i ended up using R32 x-member and mount brackets (R33 alloy wont work nicely) i then welded in a full front lower R32 rad support and castor rod brackets etc to get the best positioning of rad etc without modding firewall... a no no in drift regs. if i had the time i would have fitted the double wishbone setup too. rumor has it from Bai (d1 drift fame) that the laurel and cefiro x-member drops engine by 20mm.... no-one had one that i could find (but i would laugh my ass off it the one i got is as it was in a pile of xmembers and ther was suposed to be one in there... i just couldnt find it) so i used what i belived was R32, our 26 sits lower than other conversions though for some reason. I cannot fit much anything thicker than a paddle pop stick between x-member and sump. Absolutely Zero chance of fitting a deeper sump though as it already sits low, if it wasnt alloy i would be worried.