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without the EMU plugged in the car cant start as half the wires are doing nothing...... you need to plug emu in and select your car to make it start. Best bet take the whole lot in boxes to the tuner if your not sure.

small gate....... what size exhaust housing you using? 300-330 will be a walk in the park, i just pulled one off a mates car and it made 320rwkw with the .82 (from mem) housing it was too laggy and with a 38mm gate it could not control boost properly over 5000. i reckon your gonna be borderline with boost control issues, i have a 26 setup in ours and i wont go any smaller than a 42mm with the K5.

any one got any mates at dynologic? keen on one.

^^^ that sounds like a software bug. Glad you sorted it though.

yeah been watching it, its hell old school though. probally worth 500

$350 for any injector set changeover from creatd (same process as deatschwerks) if you dont want to use new ones like NISMO, BLITZ or SARD.

Best fun, i remmeber doing the nascar and auscar drive days years ago. Hopefully get to have some similar fun in our V8 supercar Tommorrow at calder.

i have posted a few how-to's in the driveline section, i have done 3 or 4 now. i have a spare modded transfer laying about too somewhere. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...hl=gtr+transfer can find the how-to ATM

lean or excessive retard on the ignition.

doh rb20 thread with a rb25 infiltrator... f**ked with my head. T67 10cm or 12cm td06-25g still wont cut it 300rwkw ish maxed, if it is actually a sh-25g 330rwkw is ok. Below is a R32 RB20 dyno graph. 1.2bar on std rb20 231 corrected rwkw (engine kw is the scale on the graph with more boost) pay no attention to the shape as their scales make it look laggy when actually its really not (the L2 and 06S are very much the same only the L2 is more effecient at higher boost up top.... less roll off). i have also attached a dyno graph of the TD06s-20g on a RB20 you can see it mirrors roys setup only as it runs less boost it only makes 248.8kw another option is a HKS 2835 56t with 0.61 housing, this works extremely well and i have used these in SR and RB config. (james vahoumis bought my SR HKS 2835 kit and used it in his championship winning s14.5) both Bai and the other D1 drivers prefferred the L2 (like myself) over it though. i also spent alot of time in james cefiro with the HKS 2535 and it was killer street/hills drift but is just too small for serious track drift, 2530's just too damn small.

this is two totally different behaving turbos a 360rwkw rb20 is going to be useless to drift as its going to be laggy as all shite and run big boost, 260-280rwkw is easy with a L2 but 300rwkw is a pipe dream. T67 will get 340rwkw but need boost and rpm to do it, all enemys of dorri. you need to decide drift or dyno queen as the two NEVER work together. regardless of turbo brand or people promise.

^^ yeah the TD06SH-25g is differrent than the TD06-25g but, the SH will go 10's on slicks (MSA/CREATD 5spd) and 11's on radials as youve posted here is a kit CREATD used on thier workshop car.. just shy of 300rwkw at 1.0bar from memory http://www.creatdmotorsports.com.au/galler...hp?g2_itemId=34

td07 is a old T78.... to big, you will see high 400's with a T78. Td06-25g will make 300 depending on housing size. Have a look in the exhaust housing inlet for a number there will be a number between 8-16... this is the exh size in cm2. personally i would use a T67 10cm as i get 280rwkw out of the 8cm T67 on a Rb25 and it makes .7bar as early as 3000rpm!!!! fkn responsive with strong top end.

R34 GTT std injectors are 380 and the lag time is 0.6 i know the sards are very innefficient injectors but i would check 1.5ms..... i will check and update later today. FARK ME latency is 1.5ms..... even blitz 1000cc injectors are only 1.0ms.....

yeah agreed ^^^ i had RA's in the R32 and even with the heavy circuit spec rates it NEVER bounced, i reckon yours are up for a rebuild at the least.

^^^^ SERCK coolers ( http://www.serckservices.co.uk/index1.htm ) are very high quality units and have been around for years 95 ish i think.... i think they got their fame from supplying cores (water and oil) to Spitfires in WWII. Motospecs is the aus distributor and they are very well priced for the quality. I have always used greddy or serck cores but i must admit the current car has twin JJr's on it till i finish the engine build. Capa, motorsport connections, autobarn and Fabre sell them and here is a RRP list for an idea of what they go for http://www.capa.com.au/prices_serck.htm and http://www.mscn.com.au/scripts/prodList.asp?idCategory=113

L2-20G is the go on rb20 for drift and time attack, be aware we have sold around 6 kits over the last 3months so expect to see a fair few on the circuit next year i will post up some dyno graphs for you.

if your in Melb i have a killer contact for caliper brackets.... ex supercar engineer that does alot of brake work for us. At least half the price of what you are talking.

this is a killer kit, if i had not splashed out on a new turbo kit i would have put em on cats car.

All Sold.

plain incorrect...... GARRET have marketed it quite well but at the end of the day it is just another way to get the same result. If journal bearings are still the preffered choice for all jet fighter turbines (due to same performance better reliability) i will continue to take the debate with a grain of salt. i dont care either way as we sell large amounts of GARRET and Journal type turbos as for your hi-flow dont bother, i would just save up and getting GT-SS's as they are small enough to get the 320awkw you need with excellent response..

this is where high quality coolers etc come into their own and shitty ebay bar and plate coolers start to sap power.

Agreed stay away from the venolia pistons and your tuner to blow a head gasket and pistons means it was detonating hardcore... hardcore enough to show up on even the most rudimentary knock detection devices.

http://www.uras.com.au/syohin/skyline.html#r34 last look we had a few of these. (scroll to bottom)

CRD is a gun.