STATUS

Just an idea of what comes with the intake kit and the turbo kit

Dont forget the NISMO 2.8l kit, every bit as good as anything else.

delete lag times in the before and after, so it shows nothing.

S14.... that is front bearing noise input shaft VERY VERY common on that style of box.... in fact i have not seen one that is quiet for many years the click is usually the pedal box or a dry clutch fork. The noise you have is definately throw out as once warm they tend to shut up (for a while al least). remmember once you depress the clutch you are removing the gearbox from the equation, the only thing spining is the flywheel clutch assy. The only thin touching that assy is the throw out bearing and the spigot. with your foot off the clutch and the box in neautral the input shaft is engaged and spining at engine RPM.... thins is when you hear the input shaft bearing whirring. LASTLY: if your clutch is heavily worn it will groan abit on take up... like a whrrrr noise crossed with a slight grating type noise (hard to explain). the old exedy puck type in my daily is doing this atm and the old pull type NISMO dit it in the GTR too..

the blitz one above is only 90 degrees

sorry i thought i posted this up somewhere?? bugger as the JDM plug and play looms for series two S14 do the same thing unless swapped around to the differrent (aus spec) wiring.... much like s15 PFC pin swap. as far as running rough have you taken the lag time out of the inj settings yet?

Sorry missed your call i will pm all the details now

never had an issue

try tightening the 3 allen bolts as this is the fastner for the pivot ball, even a bees dick of clearance is audible.

haha yeah used them for years but remmeber it only has no restriction when not being used once you knock the noise level down you also kill your power.... alot. they become very restrictive.

clutch release bearing is on its way out.

only the cables are different.

dandy , keysie area 0407 059280 just leave sms or voice mail.

Vu DT panels in springy.... import king

cheers, we hold between $60-100k in URAS alone so stock should not be an issue.

^^ yeah most of these guys send em north to shocker reco in qld and they are fkn average to say the least had 3 sets done myself and athid a mate of mine had a set done and all have failed 6-12mths down the track.. i bet thats where R31NISMOIDS ended up. Best bet ive found is to use Motocycle suspension specialists as they actually give a shit and know what they are doing, a bad setup on a bike doesnt annoy you it tends to kill you they can get shafts hard chromed and titanium nitrated too (anti stiction coating).

imagine what it would have made with something less agricultural, still keen on the rest of the setup though. i have our setup still running and will allow any test to be done on it or anyone to view it as i know it is perfect. interested in a straight swap (mine complete less intake manifold) for yours less intake manifold and turbo.

yes d-jetro is map sensor based, l is std replacement both easy to tune but loosely the l-jet will return better fuel economy in a daily.

updated post.

few low ball offers, but nothing serious^^

no as i did some back to back runs with the JJR and the TRUST and it pulled over 320rwkw no stress, it just didnt like repeated pulls, if it is the same core we had i cant see it being "the" restriction you are chasing.

HPI is Taiwanese also.... another source and rebrand. The trust piping is made in japan the core is not. Tube and fin is generally better hence all the kits i (autobarn $599) now source from greddy are the tube and fin variant of the type M $599.

still got box?

they will fit plenty of cars.