STATUS

as long as its an advertised price (or posted) they will match it.

yeah i only listed rrp, any autobarn will match that.

yes with a spacer it works... not real well we found out (on the car pictured) as the internal gate (small housing) ones are still having some boost issues. Car now has a T67 kit ready to go on... better response with same peak power

Other way round. bar and plate is cheap to make and hence is used more here in these types of kits.... all the better cores are a tube and fin type design.

^^^ people try give em away they are great when they are working but are plagued with heat related issues in our climate. i got a black 2+2 tt auto given to me by my missus cousin with a blown auto.... still havent got around to fixing it.

Yeah it does, needs a bit of work but it is simple enough to be DIY.

the hot side is often smaller than std but the cooler side is larger. i know on the big sr20 kits (like on our car previous) the hot side is usually around 57mm and the cool side is 70 or 80mm depending on kit.

yeah s15 turbos are a great upgrade, there is a 300zx here in melb with twin T518z's..... 400+rwkw

piss off the central 20 ecu.

haha your missing about 100km somewhere.

spark plug type and fuel filter type the same after service

thats absolute bullshit, you telling me a nismo coppermix twin or ATS or ORC for the avergae skyline making 500hp is not purpose built??? if you are you are brainwashed beyond belief. in my experience going the proven route is always a winner, some random (not talking JB here)slapping together a clutch will often end in unsatifactory results.... direct clutch is one perfect example there... got f**ked around for months trying to get a decent clutch to handle 500hp in the RX7 and in the end an ORC worked perfectly and my old lady even drove it to the shops... the GTR has a nismo coppermix twin in it..... stock pedal feel and no dramas handling 350rwkw..... the old lady uses it daily. custom is a needless waste of time unless you are doing something out of the ordinary....

i will get it sorted, i have spoken to your tuner and we have sent the datalog off to the jap engineer for him to diagnose. i am to busy atm to personaaly look at it but im sure the greddy guys will have it sorted in a heartbeat if they dont i will try make the time to have a look.

yeah my output map wont work as it is for rb26 you need to datalog the rb25 one. that one i sent was just for demo, to show what scales to use and how to interpolate the data.

is your water temp reading right? what correction do you need in the map to get the mixture right? and what serial number?

your not using my data though are you? as rb26 and rb25 are totally differrent. If you are thats the problem. email me your EMU file (with airflow datalog) now to [email protected] and i will set it up.

Rob-CREATD Ben-RACEPACE Paul-CHASERS and me haha kidding i dont tune for randoms.

shifter position is different also.... not worth the expense. considering rb20 boxes go for 150-200 bucks. i have about 10 sr and rb20 boxes at home i use for spares and they are weak as shit. r33 or 34 or if you reaaly want 300zx are the only worthwhile conversion.

about 1.1-1.2bar MAX the 10cm are pretty big and will support over 400rwkw easy, i use the small ones (8cm) on our stocky and run between 1.1bar (318-330rwkw) and 1.3bar for the bigger sweeping tracks (over 350rwkw) get it checked before winfding up the boost though as the remap may require work. Go speak to the boys at CREATD they have plenty of experience with these turbos/cars etc and can remap you remap if need be.

you will need RB20 mounts with a bit of grinder love

you miss my point completely... 99.9% of readers on this forum will get a better clutch all round from something that comes mass produced in a NISMO, ORC or ATS box than a jb clutch..... the other 0.01% would not be taking advice off here.... a custom clutch would be relevant to less than 0.1% of SAU members

the tomei one in the GTR and the S13 are both noisier than stock GTR, the tomie pump in the GTR one is less noticeable though as there is more material in the car between the driver and the pump.

^^^ yeah but it is a untidy solution and TRAC is a pain in the ass at the best of times

prices are all listed in the link i posted.

you fit another set of o-rings (small profile) to the bottom lip to increase the interferrence fit, or mill the rail spacer down a little.