STATUS

i have these fill panels ready to go here in aus see http://www.uras.com.au/syohin/skyline.html#r34 Remmeber no matter what anyone says GTR bumper on GTT looks real shit as it has to bow in to compensate for narrower gaurds. I would seriuosly consider a aftermarket GTT bar of some description.

yep thats the issue it is wired up wrong i looked at your logs again and it is NOT logging knock for some reason i saved your log as one of cats old ones and i did not notice until i lost my shit and viewed all channels and saw map sensor V"s.... the penny dropped and i realised what was wrong.

just fit the 5-bolt half shafts to the s13 diff and bolt the lot in i have a R32 diff in my street hack S13.

some better tyres, a decent alignment and maybe some pineapples to adjust drive angle you will be sweet. Cats drift car with 280rwkw (old SR20) with decent 235's would pull throught the gears with minimal wheelspin.... its all in the contact pactch and the quality of tyre providing that contact patch... forget diff ratio's... even with 4.37 we had awesome grip... so with only 209rwkw and 4.1's you should be laughing.

flashy screens

yup. i have used a walbro to make a reliable 300+rwkw in cats car, pump has only just been replaced with a TOMEI pump as part of routine upkeep.

^^^ over ten years old and not real stable. spec-r for the best value for money. The dual solenoid controllers from BLITZ are unrivalled for boost control, the amount of features on the i-color is cool but i never use them so i dont bother with them. Spec-r or IDIII... cant go wrong.

Use the 26 PWR steer pump but pull the rear pump vanes out and block the rear hicas outlet, works well do it often to cars i remove the hicas on. On ours i have used a R33 Pump on a GTT bracket (memory hazy) which allows me to keep the 5pk but run it on the AC pulley on the crank... this allows 17mm extra clearance for decent fans on the back of the radiator. FLEX-A-LITE F210 fans are the only way to go... all the others are shite and messy. Use the 26 starter, same shite from memory.

cause the blitz cooler is not even comparable in quality to the GREDDY spec-m. The blitz is equivalent to the spec-r GREDDY. The blitz is a far better cooler kit.... and could be got from any autobarn for $1500... mind you the spec-m's are 599 or 649 at autobarn too atm. Cant remmeber what i set them at

depending on the housing size it will easily match a GT30 for response, in fact a T67 8cm (very similar) we did recently shat all over the GT30 the differrence in response was like 40rwkw between 3000-4500

The factory panel is cut back heaps and re-joined to keep structural integrity, the panels then sit over the cut section and then the fill is fitted. The actual wieght added is very minimal.

EDIT; just seen pics.

it had a 14cm rear housing and was geared well with the OS close ratio box, it was built for Grip but i liked it for drift.... even though you needed to be a rough kent... full boost by 5000 and pulled to 8800 rev limit the T67 on the R34 made 40rwkw more between 3000-4500 and at least 10 everywhere else but peaked at the same top power as the GT30 so i know which one i would rather be drifting

NAH if they are fitted right they cop more abuse than stock... you can lift our car by the rear 1/4's and you can punch /kick them and they absorb the shock (due to special treatment between gaurd and factory panel) and pop back... far stronger and flexible than the factory panels its all in the prep and know-how.

MR-3's

yeah how many splitfires are going strong after 15years? we sell ALOT of splitfires (100's and 100's) and you would be suprised how many are DOA (dead on arrival) or play up not long after the warranty period stuffs up (dont get me wrong ive had them in 3 cars, current has a FET set... same thing). look at some top level drag cars like the HKS, SAURUS.. PHENIOEX use NEW std coils with amplifiers like twin power etc with no dramas at all....

For sure, but any nissan v6 conversion is not all that hard into a R32.

The best proven coil-pack is new genuine nissan, but if your on a budget like most coil-pack buyers splitfire are your next best choice and WAY cheaper. Best set-up is a new std set with an amplifier.

i would suspect your turbos for the blue smoke.

HAHA tell them to harden up Carbon ones are twice as noisey again... as for the vibration it is just common NVH that is tuned out by nissan with stock components, which is just not possible in a performance application. S15 suffer this vibration the worst with any clutch upgrade.

Yeah mix and match, rear you run the lock in between body and cradle, front run the lock that goes under the cradle and is held in by the retaining nut. Remmember to trim the little bead of rubber off the bush so that you can get the nut back on..... many forget Oh yeah if you do do this you will get a much better bite into the pineaples (less walk) we have no cradle movement at all without locks, but you must trim the beads off.. i just installed the super pineapples to CATS car last night which give an extra 3-4mm cradle angle... still chasing grip.

T67 8cm, over 213rwkw from 3300 and peaks at 270rwkw all @ 17psi. See the yellow R34 i put the kit together for, he competed in Super drift D at oran park. The thing is too responsive! It had a gt30 on it B4 and was a pig.

check your BOV, something is venting or leaking.

Some of my favorite turbos, BLITZ use KKK turbos fitted with Turbonetics wheels.... and they are some of the best turbos ive used full stop. The recent SUPRA i built runs a K5-700R and on a 3 litre absolutely rips 418rwkw and full boost around 4400 pulls all the way to 9000. i also had a K27 3070MOJ on my series 6 RX7 and it was a far better turbo than the GT35R i was talked into fitting instead.

Buy a BLITZ cooler and you wont need to worry about that