STATUS

hence me asking the question, im the worlds biggest skeptic, only the reputation of said driver is held in high regard by many so i figured id ask around.

Speaking to a few sprint guys in adelaide on the weekend i was told that the dba rotors love cryo treating.... i never used cryo as everything i have seen it used on made zero differrence but the source of this comment was from a few respected guys... apparentley they were sceptical too but the braking distance change was measurable. Any other experiences? just curious thats all.... maybe cryo is good for something. im not sure of the long term benefits but i imagine the heat cycles would have some long term effect over the initail cryo treatment...

i think they need more experience

i reckon he recomends an oil he makes the most on.... it the only logical explanation. The oil is very average and an oil analysis would be a great way to tell one way or another.. ..just to be sure. Last tuesday was the last one, you gonna spew too.... it was in melbourne

I would look at the adjuster on top and wind it all the way in... maybe even upgrade the spring inside. Your trying to vent a very large amount of air through the budget range trust bov designed for a much smaller engines.... you should be using the type r.

^^^ www.uras.com.au bear in mind some of the sides skirts and rear bar are supposed to be black (like the 180 and S15 GT kits) but because the new BLITZ colors are grey they have left the kit white.... loses quite abit of appeal all white.

hey psot it in the forced induction section, far more people will look at it.

Average between 595-634 max out of the T517 R32 GTR... thrashing will half it.

I cant say anything about ELF or i will get killed by the importer (scotty) i think it is pretty good stuff regardless im not sure what % is synthetic as it says fully not 100% (yet to test it)

yeah oil is fun especially here in aus. semi and fully synthetic in aus can have as litte as 10% synthetic stock in it (approx), only bottles which say 100% synthetic are exctly that. MOTUL and REDLINE are among the best oils you can buy, ester is the key here Learnt alot from a Wear Check training sesion last tuesday on oil testing and talking to alot of the industry experts it was interesting to find what oils are actuially good oils and what are all about marketing bullshit. www.wearcheck.com favourable: MOBIL 1 (gold bottle is 100% synthetic) motul, and redline. unfavourable; castrol edge and thier mineral gear oils.

Shit i never seen this thread... i have boxes of the bastards and use them in sr's all the time as emanages love them. they are 444cc with a lag time of 0.5

do they look like these? if they are lighter im sure they wil be NA s13. Blueish purple for DET S13

the number on the cheap one is probaly copied from a weet bix pack

that is the most shite ive ever heard... i been building engines for ages and youve got your shit alll mixed up maybe youve been playing with nicasil and so forth in 2 strokes but your conventional 4 stroke is happy to go 20, 40 and in some cases 60 thou.... (60 thou ives used a bit on high hp 253 engines)

buy rb 25 head slap it on.

looks like a poor rebuild..... all bearings plus the above hey? i hazzard poor (excessive) piston to bore clearance hence the rocking and scuffing, burns and breaths the oil then does the bottom end.... or was it cooked? pistons should be ok providing the did not scuff too bad, mic up the skirt then compare it to 3 or 4mm below ring lands, are the ring lands damage free?

1000 pick up tonight? 0407059280 lemme know soon as im supposed to go to Geelong (from dandenong) tonight to pick up a GTT cradle.

you shafted yourself then.... had a lot of seat time on both and the KTM is far better good luck with the sale.....

i know this is wierd but i need a killer notebook with serial.... does it have serial? and dvd burner?

i heard he is very good.... see you at g1?

AVCR isnt a pich of shit on the ID3, the dual solenoid boost controller are well regarded as the best on the market fullstop (the plain physics behind its operation alone make it superior). as for cams i have only used poncams in SR's and i can get better results from HKS... on a rb i believe it is the other way round so i cant comment.

ah sweet, have they got some-one down there who knows how to use it now....

Interesting after listening to industry experts i think ill steer clear of castrol oils, wear check training on tuesday night in the city was very informative. http://www.wearcheck.com/

by going to R32 you are losing the better geometry in built into s14 onwards cradles. best bet is just to upgrade the brakes see link http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...;hl=5-stud+uras

fark another HPI puppet....... both have merits and drawbacks, that said after building the supra i like the 2j better than rb26, but the differerence is only cubic capacity. Im sure if i got to compare a decent rb30/26 i be back on the fence.