STATUS

no issues with ARIAS rings.... 23 sets so far.

got one in ours direct fit, does not come with cap.

why? 20's turns a skyline into a useless trophy

Yes kuhmo set up a drift test day with us at oran and all it proved was that they broke OS gearsets.......

They do nothing unless tied to the trans tunnel like the one below.

thats PFC not emanage.......

NVCS will work as std.

No, in the EMU menu under front panel option1 select a/f then select innovate it will them come up with the A/f ratio range 7.35 - 22.39 This is the output range you need to set in log works.

seems to work for $80k engines as a quick refferrence so i'm sure it will be fine for yours..... Below are two ways of getting the same result (clay/Blu-Tac or spring method), the second may suit you better as you seem to want 100% spot on clearance but it requires experience to avoid user errors, the clay method is nearly fool-proof. Many people have even erroneously measured clearance at the point of maximum valve lift, thinking that is the most likely point at which interference would occur. However when a valve reaches its maximum lift, the piston is actually the furthest away since this occurs during the intake stroke, when the piston is moving down the cylinder bore. Minimum clearances between the valve and piston should be 0.080" on the intake valve, and 0.100" on the exhaust valve. If you run aluminum rods, the clearances should be even greater. Clay/Blu-Tac Method One way is to place a 1/4" thick strip of clay on the piston, and turn the engine over through one full cycle (two rotations past TDC) allowing the valves to make an impression in the clay. The downside to clay is that the heads must come off to do the check. Clay is also cumbersome, it tends to stick to the piston, and requires a lot of practice to get reliable measurements. The clay is then carefully peeled off the piston, cut in various locations, and the thickness is measured to determine how much clearance exists. This method works well in that it gives you a three dimensional view of not only how much clearance there is, but also where the interference is occurring. This helps determine if the problem is too shallow of a valve pocket in the piston, or if the pocket is not wide enough for the valve head. Spring Method This involves using a light weight valve spring and a feeler gauge. The procedure is to replace the intake and exhaust valve springs for one cylinder with light tension "checking" springs. They can be bought at any hardware store for under a dollar. They must fit squarely between the seat and retainer and be just stiff enough to hold the valve closed. Adjust the rockers to zero lash, irregardless of whether it is a hydraulic or a solid lifter. It is extremely important if you are using a hydraulic lifter, to AVOID preloading the lifter. Instead you want to remove all the slack in the pushrod, without forcing the plunger in the lifter downward. Be sure to make the lash adjustments when the cam lobes for that cylinder are on the base circle. (Piston is at Top Dead Center of the compression stroke.) A quick way to set the lash is to adjust the intake rocker when the exhaust valve just starts to open. Then adjust the exhaust rocker when the intake valve is just beginning to close (coming back up after full lift.) The benefit to this approach is you don't have to take the heads off, but you do need to remove the valve springs with some sort of spring removal tool. With the test cylinder ready, set your feeler gauges to 0.100". Starting with the piston at top dead center of the compression stroke, rotate the crank one full cycle in direction of normal rotation.As the piston travels back up the bore the exhaust valve opens and the exhaust stroke begins. Keep an eye on the valve train, and you will notice the exhaust valve spring slowly compress as the valve fully opens. As you approach TDC you will notice the intake will begin to open before the exhaust valve has fully closed. This period, roughly 10-15 degrees before and after TDC is the overlap period. Both valves are slightly open and piston is near the top.It is precisely during this overlap period where you'll want to use the feeler gauge to measure the distance between the valve stem and the rocker arm tip or roller. The piston is so close to the valves at this point that you can push down on the checking spring and feel the valve contact the piston. It is this distance which is critical, and needs to be a minimum of 0.080" on the intake side, and 0.100" on the exhaust. It may take several cycles to get the hang of where the overlap period is and how to take the measurements. Conclusion You will notice that the overlap period does not last very long, and in fact it is very easy to miss. In terms of degrees of crankshaft rotation, the total overlap period may be as little as 40 degrees for a mild cam, in other words 20 degrees before and 20 degrees after TDC. At some point within this range the piston and valve will be the closest. Therefore it is imperative to check the clearance at least every two degrees during the overlap period. Take a few measurements, then rotate the crank a few times and check again until you get the same number each time you measure. A helpful trick is to push down on the retainer with your thumb so that the valve a contacts the piston. Use your index finger to keep the rocker arm taught against the pushrod. As you rotate the crank the valve will "ride" the piston, and you will be able to see the space between the valve stem and rocker tip get smaller and smaller during the overlap period. Use your feeler gauge to measure the point where the gap is the smallest. If you determine that you have at least .080" on the intake and .100" on the exhaust side then you have sufficient clearance to run that cam. I have paraphrased the above form isky and various other sources... i was to lazy to write out the spring method.......

meh, impossible to answer tuning is like shagging many ways to get the same result...

your map did not come through? try [email protected]

You need to set the output signal in innovate logworks to get the readings to line up as no two widebands give out the same signal out of the box.

i bet you have fouled the plugs.... did you set the injector correction for the 550cc's?

have a look at the faq in my sig, if you neeed anymore info.

Here you go... lay off my lame paint skills. does not matter really which one 3 or 4 goes too.

OK this is the official G-O from the GREX dude at Trust; Greddy swapped rotor designs not long ago so some kits include reverse rotation rotors and normal rotation (not side to side but differrent rotation set front to back). As i mentioned earlier all the rotors are marked L or R (some have a L or R as the last didgit in the part number on the rotor bell) The internal design designates L or R so best bet is to check the rotors and run them as marked.

i must admit the T04z is a nice piece of kit.. what mods you running? i will look at the specs. Off the top of my head i reckon the 63TA/R1.00, because you state you want to make as much power with as little boost as possible. Are you looking at the garret version or the HKS? they are differrent

(from memory the grex 6 pot set on the supra had l or r on the rotor or an arrow) and ours cut from out to in..... i will ring trust (and open the box of gtr ones i have in the warehouse) now maybe the pics above off the site are for demo only..... the pics in the GREDDY book face out to in... opposite from the website talk about confusing. the best way to check as many brands are differrent is by looking at the internal cooling grooves in the rotor some are unidirectional some are not. brembo sweep out to in.

wait a minute.....

dont believe the hype is all i can say. ive been using hks garret and Trust for years and if you get the trims and housings right the core differrence is worth nothing. in fact most bush turbos actually last longer than the generic garret rollers...

why the fascination with BB?

Td07 is a confused turbo kind of a small T67 high flow. T78 far better option and do it easy.

see pics Photos on website are for display only and are actually back to front in some cases.....

plug gap? coilpacks.... or a myriad of things

Yeah i think SCAT, ART and spool are around the same price all stocked locally ART from racespec 0401 313163. Ive spun the ART rods to dizzy heights in some CA's. SPOOL from spool SCAT from rocket, autobarn etc..