STATUS

nah it is suprising, even after neglecting the filters on the gtr and checking the inlet tracts after about 20k (the only reason i got worried was because they re-did our road and a full fortnight of travellng on gravel had me stressing) but they were spotless, we just upgraded to T517's and the compressor blades are still as new after 80k of total usage... this is only rumour but i hear zoom and hpi are about to release their filter test results and have got some myths to bust

the best GTR intake pod kit is the blitz 26024. when i had my gtr i did a comparo (advantages of having stockpiles to rumage through) between the trust, apexi, kn and blitz and the blitz was the only one with a measurable advantage over the rest...most likely due to the supplied plenum type afm adapters, the kn ones actually tested quite poorly agaist this bunch. 80,000kms later and the filter has no adverse effects on anything. this is the 26024 http://www.blitz-uk.co.uk/ProductItem-173.aspx

Depends when you say 'big' these like many others are a good value rods sourced from either china or taiwan same as eagle and scat (been to the factory) i have used similar rods in crazy SR's and CA's with no issues when the budget did not permit for better items. They are no Carrillo or pauter... but not everyone needs that type of quality, look at you budget and the quality of the other components going in. No point buying chaep rods if the pistons are worth a million bucks and vice versa... no point buying killer rods if the pistons are cheap etc.

dodgy set, they have been machined wrong the 8" should fit. The URAS (doritek copied the uras rims) 17x8" never had an issue, but they are now discontiuned as the new style is released..... which no doubt will be copied soon too

thats what happens with 2nd hand gear... we have all been there. You can pick up std ecu's from about $50 and if your lucky free from many places... most workshops will have them lying around. Remmeber front cuts are usually for engine swaps not so much damage repairs, should have really checked what was there when you looked at it. 99% front cuts are pretty banged up panel wise as they get put in the container on top of each other. Remmeber these cars come from wrecking yards and there is a reason they are there...... i buy ALOT from import wreckers and you just need to be wary.... just like you would be shopping at pick-a-part.

30.15mm Exhaust 34.15mm Intake

that is definately octane booster not coolant. its too hard to read plugs without knowing the condition it was running before switch off. from a quick glance i would think about 7's. Other than that a wide band is a far safer quicker tool.

what exaclty do you need doing and what have other shops failed to get right? i have a few contacts but worst case i can get trust japan to do it for you, they have offerred to do it before on some yahoo bargains i came accross. i can send the cluster over and back very quickly and im sure they would look after me cost wise.

if your worried when you do your dummy assy put some blu-tac or similar between the faces and measure the blu-tac after disasembly.

the CES stuff looks like puss and is WAY overpriced especislly if you compare quality. Hitech make some good gear but again it looks puss on silvias skylines. PeII trust system is hard to beat, silent force is also very good. The fujitsubo gear is good quality but uber quiet (std quiet)

I honestley have never played with rod length in RB's. Below is a PDF which explains the effect of rod length change, be awre it is for NA but the priciples are the same the application differs somewhat though. RodLength.pdf

yeah but you can get both i & h in different lengths so it is a moot point in a comparison. I do however agree that altered wrist pin location can have some interesting results, we used to do this alot in V8's especially clevo's and holden platics.

haha it was more a fun thing, left over samples. im the most sceptical person when it comes to performance products (get 1000's of submissions a week) and as a matter of process i test all so-called 'enhancers' just so i can say sorry we are not interested based on our preliminary results.... unfortunately some times i have to test even the most dubious products.... should see the fuel tank tampon ive been submitted.... i was looking at top fuel complete program and their "magnetic" products were part of that whole deal, the rest of their products are actually quite good but i could not get a deal where it excluded these fuel type add-ons, needless to say i dont import top fuel based on this.

did back to back testing just to confirm my suspicions on the r32 (red version) and on cats car (green version) ZERO improvement... i looked at Aus distribution for Top Fuel (lost of products) and they sent accross a box of these as samples.

Does zero for longevity, but it will allow you to run more boost if your turbo is inefficient at lower boost levels. This is where turbo choice is most important.

BLITZ PERFORMANCE INJECTORS UNIVERSAL 1000 1.00 RB26 / CA 700 0.65 RB26 / CA 660 0.55 RB26 / CA 534 0.85 1JZVVTI 525 0.99 1JZ / 2JZ 540 0.56 SR / RB25 550 0.85 SR / RB26 850 0.85 2JZ 850 0.85

^^^ i had a HKS T04E cast manifold kit for CA18 many moons back and it was sweet (sweet in a big turbo way) but the rear housing was exclusive cast HKS item that looked real small... i have an old HKS power book in storage i will see if i can drag it out this weekend if you really want the rb20 specs..

dont even bother std is fine for that setup, done a few now. Just make sure you get a good remap.

just get a new haltech loom and wire it in to the 26, it was easy to wire it in from a SR20 so the going from the rb20 should be a piece of piss.

there is no ideal comp ratio..... machine the head and deck the block and a 1.6mm head gasket is not going to have the same effect as 1.6mm on a stocky..... h/g size is relative to application and there are plenty of differrent comp ratios that achieve the same goal... i know of a certain supra making over 600rwkw on an engine with higher comp than std.... horses for courses.

HAHA sorry i forgot nismo 550cc 0.71 Std lag times to calculate differrence; (for some reason i lost my second decimal place i will fix it asap RB26DETT 440cc 0.77ms RB25DET NEO 380cc 0.6ms RB25DET NEO 380cc 0.7ms RB20DET 260cc 0.7ms SR20DET (s15) 480cc 0.5ms SR20DET (s13) 370cc 0.7ms SR20DET (s14) 370cc 0.7ms CA18DET 370cc 0.6ms 2JZ-GTE 440cc 0.9ms 3S-GTE 540cc 0.5ms 4G63 (1-4) 510cc 0.8ms 4G63 (5-8) 560cc 0.8ms 13B-REW prim 550cc 0.8ms sec 850cc 0.7ms EJ207 Sti 520cc 0.7ms

Does anyone know where PWR sources their cores? i have a jjr GTR core which looks exactly the same to my old 180sx PWR core. Just as an excercise can you compare the core (not tanks) to a generic JJR one?

the std internals will cope with 15psi.... depends on your tuner as to how long it will last.

Yeah we had some heat related 595ss issues in drifting, delam and the such but the RS seems to handle the abuse fine. My favourite high-po street tyres are the Advan ad07, very grippy and progressive but not available locally and cost way to much to continually airfrieght accross to be a viable option, and the less street orientated RA-1 toyo which has awesome grip but not as wet friendly as the AD07. Just about to fit TOYO PROXES 4 to the GTR so we will see how they perform over the federals... unfortunately again i must say they were very average especially for excessive tyre noise... good life though and better than the Falkens that were on it before that. If you want some unbiased data, why not bring a few sets to calder one day? i will bring out a g meter and you can compare them against a lot of differrent tyres, i have access to most brands and could undoubtely score enough to do comparisons.... get a magazine involved too if you like? or keep it private.

your phone broken?