STATUS

Not sure why you would send it to adelaide as high energy is located in Vic http://www.etperformance.com.au/ and all work is done at that address.. The nicest modded/fabricated GTR sump i have seen is from access performance in Vic, i have seen these on quite a few monsters and it seems quite a few big name workshops also source them there.

a quick tune will have it sorted, it is quite common. No need to stress.

i dont remmeber saying st8 bolt on? i remmeber saying it was an average install and poor result....... we ended up going external (better exh housing size) on a nice greddy manifold (modded flange of course). Even so it only took a few hours to install on the factory manifold (spacer, itake pipe and custom dump)

it all depends on the relationship between the trims and the housing sizes, in a perfect world both can be made to react the same its just a matter of application. With careful planning mega torque mega response, mega power can be done with both singles and twins, unfortunately none can provide all three. there is always at least two ways to skin a cat, and neither are necessarily better than each other, they are just differrent routes to the same result.

unichip=garbage

never had a problem with the gizzmo's ring ray 03 9357 7640 he is the designer and owner of gizzmo electronics and knows more about boost controllers and tuning than most worshops in aus put together.

yep over boost central. I am pretty sure the boys at creatd came accoss this a while back and yeah wrong rods with the turbos.

a decent new jap one is only $1500 new, ARE are spin doctors. We just replaced the 78mm generic tube and fin cooler one on cats car with a brand name 115mm unit and repeated runs on the dyno show the advantage of having larger cooling area, there is far less heatsoak after 10 or so runs. This combined with phenolic intake gaskets has been quite suprising.

yet its worth doing if you do it post cooler (betwen cooler and throttle body)and you have crazy cams.... other wise waste of time.

fark... i hope it last longer than my s13 one..... it was shit the hangers are way povo. You could have got a trust system for that money.

could not find mine but found this which has photos http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...q45+wiring-uras

HR's are ancient and not worth the effort. you will find alot more than the shaft will need attention. If you are determined any decent motorcycle suspension specialist will be able to do the job,there are far more around than auto specialists.

haha look at the instructions i think i posted the wiring up a week or so go if you get stuck.

pull the temp sensor out wire brush it and put it back in.

you dont need the injector adapter, the PnP harness will need a few wire swaps as they only do GTR not gtst. the setup you have above is exactly what we run on cats rb26.

hylomar spray is king..... used greddy gaskets a few times for mates on shoestring budgets.

there has been heaps of posts on this already.... the ebayer seems to have no mech knowledge at all based on what i have read in other posts.... buyer beware.

overkill ....... the extra capacity was my major reason for twin oil coolers.

i have tested back to back with std turbo and those styles of manifolds and found no decent increase, the HPI style on the other hand does offer a noticeable increase.

installing decent pineapples (not cheap local shit) in the correct way will rid you of 95% of your tramp.

here you go

the setting you are talking about is a safety measure, if your car gets hot (from 80-110) it will start taking out timing. if yours never hits 80 then it is set correct (-5 degrees from 80-110). On our car i run the start temp at 90 with a slope of -10 degrees to 110.

Yeah they are good fun, i have done about 3 emenage ultimate installs on them in recent months, they go real well with a fuel (bigger injectors) and ignition tidy up. BEWARE they are under injectored!!! soon as you boost em they go to 100% duty cycle an uptgrade is a must to stop em leaning out..

no the base timing is 20 and the powerfc uses ignition to control the idle speed, our gtr will swing from 5-24 degrees to maintain a steady idle it is normal. water temp correction corrects the whole map. there are two settings one for overheat and one for cold start etc.

they are braced at the gearbox mount which is more than adequate (never had a return in 6 years). The main reason for cracking pipes is a lack of flex joints on the cheap ones. A good GTR front pipe will be equal length and have a flex joint in one of the up pipes.