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is it definalely front causing the knock back? i have had the GTR and my old R32 do the same thing in the hills on me and it turned out to be rear hub bearings knocking the rear pads back in the caliper.... and it only happened initially when giving it stick in the hills or on the track.

throught the cooler, but not the bumper was his point.

paying 500 dollars for a tune is akin to paying 5000 to a lawyer.... you are paying for experience not for hours spent. i think 500 for a full faultless tune is a bargain but i do have issues with people charging 500 to tune mearly the power curve which many do.

actually this feature is about the only thing that i really like about remaps (generally not a fan at all due to the fact you are tied to one tuner or remapers only and if your away you cant get it looked at) is that it does have knock retard secondary maps, i would be blaming the tune in your remap not the remap. If it was PFC it would have probaly blown even quicker.....

Something cheap and decent, and is supported by both emanage ultimate and PFC (both have literature to make intergration with fc logit simple) the ultimate has the innovate as a drop down menu in the software so it is auto set. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/products/lm1.php http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resourc...fc_tutorial.php integration information for FC-datalogit http://www.plxdevices.com/products_widebandO2.htm Tuning information http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/resources/Stan2.php i have not read it so if its crap lemme know and i will remove

the other thing to look at is volume. on my first GTR i did a few experiments, powerFC have a handy intake temp sensor and you can log it via laptop software. I ran a kn drop in filter around for an hour then removed it and drove round the same area with the BLITZ metal filter pod kit fitted i then ran the cars on a dyno with the bonnet shut a fews times then let them heat soak and did a few more runs.... suprisingly the pods cam up trumps (beter) each time for power as the added flow advantage outweighed any improvments in intake temps. a lot people fall into the trap of blindly chasing intake temp over flow... it has to be balanced.

eeek a gtr bonnet is cheap and readily available nowadays, your gtst bonnet will look shit hacked.

8cm or 10cms? they are totaly differrent beasts i have just removed the 2860's and fitted the T517z 8cm and i have experienced exactly the opposite....

it is chalk and cheese, a pfc tune (complete tune) with pfc software can save you half the total time a basic tune with the hand controller would take. 99.5% of the hand controller tunes i inherit from workshops have holes all the way through them... it is virtually impossible to have holes in a software edited pfc as the whole map is on the screen at each instant.

Nah good example is the MSR skyline, ran better numbers with the TD06SH-25G (10.30ish ) than it did with the GT3540r. If your tight for cash though the GT3540r is the best compromise though. Its not a brand thing its an outcome thing. Like cats car RB26 i have driven plenty of rb26's with GT-RS's and 2860's but i dont like them i prefer the T517Z's but on SR20 for high end i will choose a HKS GT3037s over a T67 anyday and for response and mid power 280rwkw a TD06l2-20g over a GT2835.

yeah they didnt arrive in time, i only like the to use these as they offer the best results with the combo. we also stopped at 18psi as the car will only run 15psi during comp use. Even so doing the runs @18psi with 3 people in the boot and a few differrent attempts to stop wheel spin we could not get a wheelspin free run..... damn those drifted on square tyres realistically i would expect a bit more say 15rwkw at 18psi and 10rwkw @ 15psi but it will have to wait. I really wanted to tune up to 22psi as these things really come on song up there but having a flashy dyno sheet was not worth the effort of changing tyres.... call me lazy. PICS SOON

mate trust me no vct on a rb25 is NOT a great thing. do a back to back run with it on and off and the differrence is seat of the pants detectable...... the extra cost of finding that extra midrange is better spent buying a ECU that can accomodate it from the start. 1200 will buy you something with VCT control easily.

gearset the same, main shafts differrent.

The Nissan TPS uses two 3 wire connectors on it. One is on a short section of harness about 6 inches long and handles the actual throttle position signal and the other made to the body of the sensor is for the idle validation circuit which you also need or you get a code (51 I believe). With the sensor standing up, with the mounting tabs on the right side and the TPS wiring harness coming out of the bottom while your looking at it the top 2 pins in the connector made in the sensor body are your idle validation pins so disregard the bottom pin. Your TPS wiring harness that comes from the bottom of the sensor will terminate at a 3 prong plug and have red, white, and black wires in it. The wires colors correspond with these functions: Red is the 5 volt input wire White is the TPS signal wire Black is the sensor return wire With the connector lock up the white wire will be in the center, the red wire should be on the left, and the black wire should be on the right. When adjusting this sensor I found the best TPS voltage was around .385 on the sensor check but this car vary from car to car. i used this on the SUPRA we built for AutObarn.

Unichip is fairly crude and i really hate them, they are so limited.^^

here are the setup instructions;

no it cant as the main shaft is totally differrent. i usually mod the transfer case as they are dime a dozen and cost next to nothing. see pics

i posted it up just above yours www.fc-datalogit.co.nz is the manufacturer and turn around is very quick.

im based in melbourne and got called out to a workshop (remain unamed) to investigate genuine greddy plenums (turned out to be copies) hydraulic locking engines...... it turned out that a whole batch of these copies landed in melbourne and the manufacturer had tapped thru the water passage into the intake runner.... nice work. just pressure test the water passge if your worried.

hardly im a dealer for both and the BLITZ is a better kit than the trust and hybrid, both those kit reheat the piping as it crosses the radiator and they also have noticeably more throttle lag than the blitz. We also see lower intake temps with the blitz for those reasons.

HAHA i hope these are the ones hydro'ing engines as the water port was taped into the intake runner..... if nto all good, i prefer the finish of the genuine ones but hey who am i to judge if it works.

the cost of buying the software and link box would be far more than the cost of geting croydon to tune it. If you plan on using the software and link box a fair bit then the investment would be worth it. http://www.fc-datalogit.co.nz are you still located in NSW? if for any chance your in melb i will happily unlock it for you $0

Hey brendan i could not sell my ex TKA superbike, but a shot on ebay saw it sell for more than i actually asked for it. old thread. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...hl=kawasaki+tka try ebay dont cut yourself short especially on that machine. ps fkn sweet bike i wish i had a few spare pennies.

burge at type-m in dandy would have a few.

The TRUST (quaife) 6sp boxes are sweet but have a fragile reverse. No reverse doughys. http://www.quaife.co.uk/