STATUS

i take bush over balls every time. But seriously the bush stuff is so much more hardy and the response diff is litterally negligible.

R34 gtr cooler is the best pick of all the gtr cores.

yeah bad idea, the distribution gets all screwy, too much cylinder triming needed to even out the fuelling.

Anything int gate i avoid from them including turbos. All the ex gate stuff is fine.

killer cooler the blitz return type.

Hmm how much for the FF? one of the only 20's not to nose over up top was your getup with the old cam timing, i reckon this manifold was the key.... im looking for a c33 laurel to piece together atm... rb20 with l2 on cane sugar of course.

Your car is definately tradng top for mid in its current cam gear guise.

I have the same experience, trust manifolds in SR and RB outperform the 6boost items and generally dont have the creep some of the 6boost ones suffered from. Std manifolds are junk for making power, yes they make it but swap out the manifold for something decent and you can definately see the difference.

139mph with chromies on the rear.

Rewire the motec so it does control the idle, the blitz access ecu is locked and scrambled and can only be tuned in japan by an access dealer.

HAHA boom didnt even see that... gonna blame my moving shop til 3am on that one.... delete thread for my blatant stupidity....

alot if run up on the dyno properley... spent hours with cam gears on numerous occasions trying to fill the void from no VCT.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/800hp-Street-Legal-R33-Nissan-Skyline-Turbo-Drag-Drift-Race-/280823080195?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item41625c2503 Anyone know if this is legit? might buy it for the the running gear.... cheap drift car for the missus.

screw that.... that whole car is super sexy.

run gtr ecu with ait sensor and HPX maf in cold side, killer setup. made well over 400rwkw with nistune and similar setup.

Not really, pwr steer idle up, a/c idle up, auto anti stall etc are all required for the niceties of a daily driver.... many afm based ecu's strugle without one. Nistune for one is happy to make upwards of 500rwkw but does not like having the iac removed. if your ecu allows it and your not fussed about having a higher idle than std etc than yes it can be tuned around (mostly map based ecus). The only people who seem to get good results with these are guys who need to justify the fact they sold it to the customer.... yes we tuned heaps yes they work (like std) would i put one on my own car ... no.

bingo.

they also place it so the adjuster is impossible to adjust... not real smart.

Yeah T518Z 10cm gives l2 type lag without the top end or mid range torque.

we are seeing less and less of the 8cm making over the 250 mark nowadays, whether it is fuel or combo related im not sure (i would rather under qoute and over deliver). Have just done a 10cm which was happy as larry @ 270 with easycams.

230-240 is about right for the T518z on pump. Like you say 260 is a pipe dream

i just had issacs S15 come from racepace where it made 250, it made 239 on mine.. pretty direct comparo i reckon.

There are 4 calibrations for different regions (like usa which use old std) and test procedures: SAE DIN and two others i cant think off.. lol (as i never change it) some of the operators in sa seem to always run theirs in the old standard which inflates power... have bought this up a few times with them as they give the dyno a bad name even though its actually far more accurate.... hell i could have got a 4wd roller for the price of my new 2wd dynapack... on top of every dyno sheet from dynapack is the correction type used, if it isnt in SAE J1349 (2004) ask it to be changed. Also like any dyno make sure the Air intake temp probe is set to ambient and is reading real ambient temperature

Done back to back comparo with plazaman and std and made no extra power.... twice. Latest comparo was a fortnight ago.