STATUS

with 20 degrees it would want to be e85?

got heaps, average output is 300-330rwkw on 98 std cams and btm end, 340-360 with decent cams.

haha sounds like a wolf mine used to forget it was a rotor.... every 3 or so starts you would need to reset the trigger settings... just one of the myriad of issues we had with them.

its they way most tuners tune like myself (correction mode) but if your learning like these guys then correction usually doesnt mean squat to them... so afr is easy to relate to. The airflow voltage curve is the important thing to get right, that way all manifold pressures are tuned spot on regardless of throttle position and boost etc (if your fuel base correction is right).

we have done it but its not controlling the auto correctly, the separate auto ecus are wired different

For R34 PFC's to work you need to have the factory keys programmed to the factory ecu, once this is done you can remove the factory ecu and the PFC will Work. Other option is to fit R32 or R33 GTR pfc with 1 and 120 deg pins swapped. i guessing you have no injector pulse and a set timing advance of 4 dgrees? one of my customers if living this nightmare atm... runs fine on a stand alone out of a R33 but not with the R34 PFC. There is no coding in the R34 pfc for NATS but for some reason it does require the keys to be correctley coded.... dont know why but it worked in the past.

Put simply you never give gold away for free.... and as such a mail order free touch up is no where near an in house dyno derived tune... as one needs to compensate for a myriad of things. thats why i said (please understand the touched up one is dramatised a bit to make it more obvious) and (ignore the fuel map though as it was to dangerous to rewrite a UK based car with no WB, its cleaned up not rewritten to target afrs from memory) but your post above is correct, most of our tunes dont have flat af curves and definately have a non linear timing line. Most go up, some go up down up... all the benefits of live tuning.

can i confess to reading just the first page.... kinda shot for time. My appologies will read the whole lot now Read: ok yes... waaaaay to much booost, should be making that power on 18psi. Didnt even think to look at graph any closer as 27psi and 300 rwkw is kinda out there... my bad. @ 27 psi i would expect ~80-100rwkw more.

Sorry ive turned off pm's as i rarely get screen time nowadays. feel free to email it to me [email protected] with mods and car type. I wil look at it for you for free, as for changing it i will see how it looks first, and maybe make sugestions, do you have WB logging? An easy way to see if your tune is pretty poor is the color grading in the map, if it doesnt smothly blend colours it needs work. here are two examples the top one is a real map, see the large steps and troughs.... this is all bad for driveability etc. Compare the second map to the original to get an idea of what im getting at. (please understand the touched up one is dramtised a bit to make it more obvious). The top map was tweaked to remove the steps and troughs only and this was the reply from that UK customer "Car Feels really good mate, never felt the car as powerful as that before and was only getting between 22-30 knock" Smoothness is paramount for driveability EDIT: found the thread, save these files as .DAT and you can compare the before and after to get the jist of my ramblings. (ignore the fuel map though as it was to dangerous to rewrite a UK based car with no WB, its cleaned up not rewritten to target afrs from memory) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/295349-can-somone-with-datalogit-check-my-map-please/page__p__4924793__hl__map+smooth__fromsearch__1#entry4924793

Chris im pretty sure ive posted up a few in tuning threads before, the target afr map or target injection ms table is tweaked between different engines and turbos and obviuosly fuels, but yes in broader terms it is very similar.

you would be suprised it actually is the same time wise and if you use the numbers enough (like evryday like we do) then you can nearly write the map without a dyno.

Powerfc or remap the std ecu, a nistune remap would probably be the best option for your budget and application $850 from most places drive in drive out.. i personally am happy to use nistunes on gtrs up to around 450-460rwkw mark. We do plenty of big hp cars with Nistune remaps which sail through epa inspections so im sure any other shop can do the same.

400+rwkw 400-440rwkw so far without issue.

Needs the actuators wound up... lots. Your actuators are too soft... or you have a restriction. Your @ -7 power @19-20psi but with about 6 psi more wound in on -5's.. Its dropping over 5psi....

yes the table with percentages should always stay 100%, use the table below it to fine tune. Exactly, but 14.7 would be difficult on a turbo car.

Bingo. Just make sure you do it smoothly, no big jumps that way all load points regardless of boost match your desired afr in the fuel table.

Nice i have a 12cm version of the td06 (kando) to tune in the next week or so on a GU 4.5l, even with rough tune it flies.

Nice i have a 12cm version of the td06 (kando) do tune in the next week or so on a GU 4.5l, even with rough tune it flies.

yeah but your far from std, i know of about 3 SAU r33's running quick times on ASI rads.

ebay asi.

depends on the injector, many cars actually run 100% factory like some hondas but nissan injectors hate it and can bounce and miss time @ over 96%... many aftermarket injectors actually play up at 100% duty as well... ie not deliver corectley... bouncing on seats etc.

e85, perfect or WMI.

both avail, we use a few 10cm ones now too, 270rwkw quite easy.

bingo... if a near std gtr struggles to do a track day then your never gonna keep it cool, if its a r34 gtr radiator your really in trouble as they fair the worst. forget n1 pump, will make it worse. not ragging on the tune but what timing has it got it in it along the top end and what af? (pm if you prefer)

do a full throttle accel run next time its cold (one run when its cold wont hurt) see if noise changes pitch, if so it could be turbo to manifold leak. or listen for slight chug from turbo area with it idling cold..