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OOh snap, was micheal ok? PS mental setup, would have made a killer auto driftcar the auto and tiptronic was that good. Make sure you get someone to retune it for your car, dont trust another cars tune in yours.

piece of piss, got a few auto R34's around 270-320rwkw.... the auto starts to play up around the 300rwkw mark too so be aware. Last one we sent over to MV auto in SA and got a 3k stall aswell.

tune problem... E85 on that setup should be fine with 8's.... we run sevens or eights no issues.

Tuning in the AFM percentage table is a sign of pure laziness, poor form unfortunately. I like the write my fuel map so that it accuratley resembles my target lamba / AFR i then re write the AFM table to get my results. This means its easy to make correction in the future as inputing the desired afr in the fuel table means you will get the same result out the tailpipe. Especially handy with fuel changes or a trip to the drags or a turbo swap etc. Tao from hypergears fuel and afm curve is so close to being perfect we can swap between different size turbos and the tune requires only 1-2 pulls to be spot on the target AF in the fuel table. Timing is still a dynamic thing.

unfortunately your accel pulse, crank pulse and everything that requires accurate injector pulse timing will be up the creek, yes you could do it but every single fueling curve would need changing and it would still be behid the eight ball when finished. The PFC has a lot of areas that are non adjustable in the back ground which rely on the lag time and % correction to bring it back into check.

10cm?

im pretty sure its the turbo, but there is 2% chance it could be a split hose we could not get too. A hose clamp was left off the intake pipe and it ingested a shiteload of debris, 2mm thick around inducer. front wheel has a little play which is why i supsect turbo....

happy to help out.

wow that is a relic, this may work!

try it on a serial laptop, if the problem goes as im sure it will you need to sort your usb converter. The FCdatalogit gear is untouchable quality wise and is by far the most stable, ive used them all and sold them for a few years back on the mid 2000's

whats it making atm?

buy it ex usa will be 50% cheaper.

could not have said it better, laggier and require more boost to do the same job.

i would sell em and get some thing better, they are not real efficient.

Hardly... most cars dont need anything to convert. Single pump with correct injectors and factory lines and hoses 400+rwkw no problems...

Unfortunately for the owner yes.

just get an oil heater off ebay and the like, very common in the usa in sub zero climates, cheap too. Should sit tin the tank no issues. The ones i saw were pretty much kettle elements but larger..