STATUS

if you can feel the lip when you scrape your fingernail over it.... end of game... overbore time.

just use a bit of gorilla glue..... NOT.

were you using the pfc boost controller? i thought you had an avcr?

from the link website: History: Link was one of the very early market entrants twenty years ago. 2010 witnessed a turn-around in the market perception of the Link name thanks to the technical excellence of its product. The launch of the ViPEC brand has seen a new product pitched against high end competitors with outstanding results. Continued clear and unambiguous differentiation is further required to propel the ViPEC name higher

should be no issue.

factory boost solenoid wiring.

what power you after? i've never used one... but cant imagine it being a dog. I have however used a few internal gate l2 variants and they sucked hard.

its tuned for a particular setup best bet is to put it on a dyno somewhere and check it.

we dont supply anymore, we just send guys to whoever has the best price on what ever ecu best suits their needs (no matter the brand) other wise we need to hold too much stock... having to hold ecus from each brand used to tie up around 15k in stock..... they sell for around $1650 and our tuning charge is between $650 and $850 regardless of ecu, everyone is different.

could post around 20 or so 280-300rwkw graphs of unopened sr's. Peak power between rb20 and sr20 is generally the same but we need to run more boost to get it... rb20 is also lazier onto boost but you have the extra rpm to use it... just need to wind in more boost to keep the numbers climbing

agreed, dude keep them (double check tag) and put them on, they should be sweet 330-40rwkw

i'll keep an eye out, set my ebay snipe for the pair on there now so we will see how it goes.

Definately works but its often glitchy some of the supra (map based) pfc's false cut even if there is no pfc boost control kit fitted... you need to input 2.0bar on the boost settings tabs.

My personal preference is for a single, tricky to match or better a good twin setup but definately possible. That said is it your 2835's on ebay atm?... i think i need them, whether or not i win them is another story

Gold is generally a bad sign as it is often the seconf layer of material on bearings... that said it could be numerous things. Oil analysis is the best bet or change the oil out now and recheck it down the track... there should be minimal shavings in any motor (even after fresh build, as it should have been thoroughly cleaned to start with) its like circulating sand... bad. Nowadays there is far less run in material in the oil in a first oil change due to better equipment and tolerances being used.

with it idling spray some carb cleaner around the orings at the bottom and see if he idle changes, just to make sure they are not leaking.

hard fuel cut from memory, on the last supra i tested it on.

1000% stand up guy, a good customer but more importantly friend. Not at all dodgey like me.

ahh yeah i saw the graphs on the dyno about 30mins after you left can email if you want? Thing has heap more in it, even as it is now its evil on tyres the power does not really portray how this thing drives... with some micky t's i would not be surprised if it pulled some VERY respectable times.... with a new converter you may even be sent home early...

whats wrong with them?

got one at the shop at the moment, we see alot on s14 and s15, they seem ok @ 200 - 240 above that they seem to lose efficiency as they are a heavy bar and plate core. decent for the money... that said though i would not be real keen on using it on a 2.5l.

HMM.. i gotta charge more

hey Stao we are talking vq motors not rb25