STATUS

yep, if the mesh is removed i generally wont touch em.... especially if its gonna make decent power as it increases the reversion through the maf.... they are designed as a slight damper.

your AFM voltage table needs to be properly adjusted to make the afr values in the main table accurate. Once set correctly you can tune the main table easily by simply imputing the desired target afr. Not at all necessary but handy.

how about using the stagea complete subframe? ive fitted the R32 one to a silvia but ive never seen the later VQ subframe... too wide possibly?

must decent dynos correct for most air conditions, i know our does full weather station not just temps..

Guy seriously the best tuning laptops are toughbooks, search ebay, im 100% happy all my programs regardless or ECU type (over 12 different tuning suites) work perfect.

will i run a red light again?

sounds good, make a weekend out of it

map sensor line connected to plenum? and is the ps calibrated? ie can you see the tps move the correct way in the software?

bell housing would be the easy part, and cheap. Budget around 500-600 (cheaper if you have access to a large mill and do it yourself) for something mint.. much like the hollinger to gtr housings, ive done a few custom ones like evo 6 to rwd etc and generally they cost me 200-300 trade.. and rated to same horsepower as the std cast items. EDIT: Seen your latest post so ignore my post, i see you have the engine and gear already sorted.

then you have no flow.

fark with 200 +kms just throw in another motor... average rb20 goes for around 200-400 bucks but if you have the head off check the valve guides and check the valves for mushrooming. replace stem seals but only if the guides are ok or your wasting your time..

try Donny @ street forced he does em cheap and good. http://dev3.ben-turner.net/

Is birds connected to status gearboxes?

with the new gen of injectors we run with 2 sets for most applications now.... 1000cc for 6cylinder and 2000 for just about all 4 cylinders.... ID's are a godsend and a set of 2000's idles better than the old school sards and nismo's..... ask me 5 years ago if you you wanted to run 2000cc injectors on an sr20 and id slap you... now i slap you if you dont

is top of rad different temp to bottom?

as a backup yes a LC1 will be utilised BUT im not a fan of using a/m widebands to control primary fueling as they are no where near as stable over time as the oem setups... i have 100% faith the ecu can do it but not enough faith in the wideband controllers (dont care what brand ive used them all) .... i am yet to see one that is reliable over time, my old 7 series bmw uses 4 widebands (2 in each 6cylinder bank) in closed loop even under 100% throttle to control fueling and has failsafe default outputs. If we were able to use two and one as a failsafe it would be worthwhile.. but again not necessary. Knock sensor would be a nice addition but not a real necessity as the control ignition setting is straight pump 98 so unless you fill it with 91 it wont be referenced. I have the knock sensor talk with a few people especially those with nistunes as people are brainwashed heavily into thinking it will always save an engine... sadly it generally wont make a difference as factory Nissan feedback for the knock sensors generally ends @ 4000rpm... the the engine destroying det generally is prevalent in upper rpm. I did a test with a S15 (and since with a R33 GTR) to prove a point to a customer and we ran it up on 98 and then filled it with 91 and re did all the runs, even with audible knock up top it did not revert to the knock map.... if i increased the knock threshold to 7000rpm then it would drop in to the low octane knock map. Problem was that it would also drop into the low map sporadically on 98 as the gearbox lash (mechanical diffs are another cause or floating plate style clutches) was enough to set the knock sensors off... We can go someway to "lowering the sensitivity" but this address is only avail on some nissan cars not all. I do like closed loop knock control dont get me wrong but it has a place and a function it should not be used as a fix for poor tuning (ie it should never be active unless something drastic has gone wrong) i see alot of Hondata, gm (ls engines) and ford product come through with knock retard used as part of the tune and it annoys the shit outta me.... tune it right and it should stay dormant.

reco radiators are a crock ive had about 5 done over the years and its never fixed the issue... bin it or recore it. We have also seen a few of the jjr ally rads weld them selves together internally from stray current. if its re-cored the water pump must be screwed. pull the thermostat and check flow, if it has no flow at the rad cap then generally its the rad, but you can bypass the rad with pie to check if the water pump is woking (rare to fail but ive seen a few that ran on water for too long and the blades rusted off ) other thing is those autobarn and repco tridon thermostats are junk and often fail out of the box.

yes. We dont need to have linear adjustments or in one plane (multiple planes) either (remember there are corrections for load too as well as fine % ethanol adjustments), but like any ecu the scale is where the magic is not just the number in the table. Once we do the final tune on Daniels i would be happy for it to lap on any mix of fuel and ethanol and be optimised for that mix.

honda? e85.

Get a long piece of vacuum hose and pushover the end of and inlet manifold stud, run it back into the car and listen to it. I have made a knock detection setup impromptu @ the track using industrial ear muffs drilled so the vacuum hose pushes inside the ear muffs to block out ambient noise, worked well but would not be good for your hearing long term I saw you request for info a page or so back from march and i apologise for no reply. (havent been on here for months, very busy atm) Feel free to email your map to me i will have a look for you on the quiet. [email protected]

Change the oil asap or you will be up for a bottom end there will be @ least a 1 litre of fuel in the sump mixed with oil if it sat for a week.

highplatform?

Waste of time and money, get something decent we have seen core temps of close to 70 c on the r34 coolers on mild boost applications... they heat soak about a run or two later than the std r33 one... useless for track days or any sort of hill run type work.

NO compromise at all really the afr and timing when fully setup is optimised for very fine adjustments so it will make peak safe power at any ethanol mix with optimal afr's.

Unfortunately not, same with pfc. For those two ecu's i recommend getting the software so you can load 98 or e85 maps in. I think the FC-hako interface cable is bug free now and only $175. The Nistune software and license is also reasonable. To use this system the ecu needs a digital input to read the frequency, we run a pullup resistor from the signal input to 5v to make it all work.... so any haltech, link, vipec, etc i think i can get it working with emanage but it will require the zetronix ethanol content meter aswell.