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retarding the exhaust helps with top end generally, advancing the inlet helps response. I generally go small retard on exhaust but big advance on the inlet. Doing what chrisking666 suggested will work (same power curve but later) but wont have the benefit of the response.

ive used them with pfc, they work well.

should be laughing, we made 400-420 on a single tomei pump which is the same as the nismo. we ran out of injector before pump.

as a note it is actually a trick i picked up from serious time attack cars in japan about 10-15 years back, so it does work fine in extreme cases too but i agree that it should only be done if there is no other option.... oil saturation of the afm element is possible if its not set up right or the engine /turbo is tired.

http://editiondigital.net/publication/?i=70423&esrc=vidi4&zjxj=04600004W247998W680W3

haha ignorance is bliss hey?

yeah on the bigger stuff i swap out the front GTR knock sensor, possible but yeah you need three wobbly ended 3/8 extensions... tricky and time consuming. Similar to below but 2 of the medium and one short.

works fine but keep it closer to the cold side of the cooler, as far from the TB as possible, generally with a PFC we actually cut the z32 in half and epoxy the sensor into the cooler pipe... this is needed as boost over 20psi generally blows the z32 circuit cover apart. If you drill a 20mm hole in the cooler pipe and epoxy it in place it can handle 30+psi no worries. We also play with cooler pipe diameter to raise or lower the resolution of the sensor. The PFC has a very user friendly afm voltage curve and it takes very little time to "write" a perfect curve to suit any pipe size and boost level. It is possible with nistune etc but its much more time consuming.

a quick easy place on a gtr is to remove one of the fuel connector 8mm bolts (10mm head) under the inlet plenum, i have an adapter (8mm bolt with 10mm (12mm spanner size) nut welded on top) which i screw in to the removed 8mm bolt. This gives good amplification of knock but requires a little less gain to cut out the solid head and inj noise.

Wait to you see this car guys, it is possibly the sexiest R34 i have EVER seen.... Heaps of power, super torquey and happy to trundle around @ 5kph in bumper to bumper traffic.... a true divers car and credit to Daniel and his vision for the car. A daily drivable supercar eater.

as 30rwkw makes a huge difference.

Ash this may interest you as i know your a racepace (killer workshop) fan boy. We see quite a few cars from Racepace through nowadays and the results we see from our hub dyno are very close to the dyno dynamics dyno (generally 10 up or down) they are running... so hub versus roller is moot. In fact only last week had a bayside blue R34 gtr with t518z's from there last week which pulled 280kw on mine and he had a dyno sheet for 290 from racepace exact same boost.

0% chance.

about twice as much as your turbo can deliver.

PPM here in vic sell a decent rod for the price, made over 500awkw on them so far. seen a manley rod in a SR 2.2 stroker let go (460rwkw 8500rpm) so we dont use them, could have been a one off but if other rods do it easy ill stick with them..

might be sucking shut? im more worried it was turned to 8700... keep meaning to buy the f-con software but its just no worth it... slap in a r32 gtr ecu and remap it for the same cost as tuning the fcon...

hmm get more adventurous (like double) on the inlet, its where the gains are.

mid 4's happily, more than that i cant attest too.... as i wont push a customers 26 past 450kw on std engine...

Just some more innovate info i came across which mirrors my experiences:

flip a coin.

1.0mm was ok 0.9mm was a little to small

that is no-where close to just ears... those sensors will tell all. I have had guys tuning for years (like 20) say they dont need this fancy gear and that they can hear det.... even on str8 out exhaust cars and external gate cars.... impossible and proved it with the k-mon... i increased timing a degree at a time and told the the guys to tell me when they heard it.... they heard it 3 degrees after i did through the head phones.

if your worried then speak to nistune in adelaide im sure they will steer you in the right direction.

Sorry dave didnt mean to offend, the question was asked why lobster over mandrel bend and i just pointed out why its done, i can imagine the mufflers alone were quite exy.

its done cause its cheap and if you hvae a drop saw if actually quite quick to do. Your correct it does not flow as well as a mandrel bend.... but costs a 1/4 to make.