STATUS

should be able to pick it up way before you hear it with the k-mon or knock block. the software logging will show you well before you hear it. You need to log it run at a time so a maximum of 15 seconds to get the best resolution. on the 1jz i use the spare spots on the head exhaust side front and raise the sensitivity on general tunes but on bigger setups i go to the block

they look fine, especially for only a few days old.. Bit hard to judge plugs without an eye peice, but its not like the old lead fuel days where they go grey.

gaggle of parts in first post have a deposit taken.

SOLD

Its because it is remapped for larger injectors and a HK gt2530 (most likely z32 afm too) it wont work on a stock car.

done lots of RB26's into S series cars. Cause yours is a 200sx you are best of using a r33 gtr loom. If you have an R32 one you will need to strip the power wires out of the std 200sx loom and wire them into the r32 one if you want it neat and plug and play. I reckon if your not confident in auto electrics and circuits then maybe pay someone to do it, the std ecu remapped will be good for whatever upgrades you do in the future.

Generally NO but it can happen, but it is very rare i have had to go out to a few panel shops over the years and reload tunes. i think it is more a results of a quick backwards jumper battery short

the 6x9's help exponentially with engine life.... as it gets noisier just crank em up.

exactly, it can even effect spool up time negatively.

How many kms on engine? we are getting alot with valve float nowadays with any sort of cam upgrade... id say 3 in ten cars.

exactly i have dynoed tuned a few cars now that have "alleged" gained more power or response after cam gear installed elsewhere after my tune (as i wouldn't do it) BUT when it came back to check on my dyno it had made no appreciable difference to the run we did previous to it being installed and tuned elsewhere. Most of the time you can tell by the dyno graph (start point) if they have increased the ramp rate to make and "artificial" gain in response. Generally after around a $400-600 dollar spend on gears, fitting and tuning your better off going to the casino or giving it to charity. RB26 yes rb20 (depends on setup) rb25 only on big stuff with cams.

ASR sump is their top of the range race/circuit sump 8 or 9 lts, extended pickup, windage, traps and doors etc GTR std sump was from R33 but same as R32 (no pic).

sum of parts and work in it are around 6k but ive just stripped it down and its unchecked clearance etc wise probably take 2k as is or 3k re-ringed and bearing's just to be sure. Engine done 1500kms.

answer to the emails: Block and head is R33 rest is R34, they are the sum of all the parts i've had left over from builds over the years. I actually have 3 cranks i just found another which is 10k old but has a worn thrust face on the pull side (so perfect for std push clutch setup once repaired) they said it would be good as new, all journals are perfect. The crank with the crack was sent away by my machine shop and i had it quoted up about a year ago but never got around to okaying the work and bought a new one as the car was making big power (800odd hp) so i did not want to chance it. Price was 1/4 the cost of a new crank to have it fixed. The other crank has spun number 6 journal and has never been inspected. There was two complete engines so 99% of parts are there to make one with plenty of spares. i do have another short engine but its got full ARP kit trust forged pistons and eagle rods.

ASR rb sump full race version NEW $500 STD gtr sump and diff $200 RWD rb26 alloy sump $150 TOMEI rb26 sump baffle new $150

Fully dissembled RB26 R33 and plenty of R34 parts from cats stock pile. Head was recoed and hot tanked. ATM it is fully disassembled in boxes. R33 block fresh 87mm bore suit first upsize (was using pistons with real tight clearances so im positive it will be spot on for CP or JE's with 87mm pistons. 2 x R34 cranks one with spin bearing the other is under 1500km old but has a crack (was going to get crank shaft re builders to fix as it comes up god as new and way cheaper than $1400 for a new crank) R34 oil pump and water pumps R34 rods and pistons i think there is 8 or so? 6 h-beam rods 5 are identical 1 is slightly different. Full individual throttle body setup (only missing plenum as it was a greddy) sumps can be suplied @ extra cost. $1000 the lot cash only and pickup.

Status tuning in dandenong 03 97923333

R34 SMIC 60k old with ducting, no pictures it looks just like every other R34 SMIC but is perfect in every way... off a very low km car. i kept it as i was going to use it as a water cooler but sold off the project. $100 pickup only

Pump e85 is fine provided you tune for the variations. We can match c16 but @ $1 a litre....

any truck shop (exhaust or parts) should have a plethora.

true most of the auto meter stuff needs a signal converter part 9117.

Nice !! Looks fantastic. are they aem cop's? cant quite see? we had some reliability issues with them, turned out its real common... did the old google search on "AEM cop issue" and got infinite pages If not ignore me

overly heavy pedals and 2 recent failures.

had a bad run with these lately, anyone else?

dont think e85 would have helped in this case, wrong end of engine