STATUS

should stick to the rb25 ones, wont on rb26 though.... maybe the later r33 used a different stainless which is not magnetic. i quickly ran out back (before posting my reply above)to test the rb25 head i had here with my snap on telescoping magnet and it picked up the valve.

magnet on end off coat hanger down guide.

easy to fix. remove chip, massage with a 12oz hammer... job done.

will be fine, i fitted the same cams to a R33 without VCT (see my sponsor thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/308743-rb20-rb26-and-rb26-camshafts-850-pair/)and lost nothing, car now has a highflow and makes great power but with the std turbo it made 206rwkw on 12.5 or 13 psi. Given the rb22 is smaller but the turbo is also uber small so it should work out fine. You will need to get aggressive with the intake cam, i think i was around 10-14 degrees advanced from memory on the vct engine so dont be scared to advance it up.. i had a rb22 in last friday similar setup but with gt3071 and it was sweet.

yeah sometimes its best to set it off the HT lead on number 1 (more often on sr), i have had a few cars that play up and wont set correctly off the rear loop (elite is right also as flipping the inductive pickup often makes a difference)

so i was right? engine was screwed.... and i cop a mouthful for not jumping to conclusions...

yeah we gave up on them, ran a decent 115mm tube and fin cooler and car never ran better.... (bar and plate was just too heavy).

see my earlier response, what is your budget.

you gonna need a new fuel rail, rail adapters etc.... and possibly resistors as the sard top feed 555's are low impedance.

small movements are fine, just dont turn the cams 360 degree's

Final day to get a bargain. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270678366531&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT

we were using PWR kits.

i call bogus on the comparo.... ramp rates are not the same between runs.... i have the same dyno and can tell you the only way to split the runs like that is to either run a 4sec start delay to build boost or increase the ramp rate in seconds.. Power correction is in DIN which over inflates the power by a bit too (about 10-15rwkw @ that power)...

cause there are plenty of 900hp cars in china to do r&d for them....

should be negligible.

sorry ian i was on the dyno yesterday tuning another d-jet when i had a terrible realization i has posted the wrong parrameter (i had remembered the headers wrong), ignore the TPS vs INJ it is inj vs accel you need to play with. sorry but thats what i get for posting withut the software infront of me... too many tuning suites and so many different names for similar things. It pissed me off more that i got it wrong as i so often see the INJ vs TPS adjusted and it really plays havoc with a tune and i always set them to the default 1.000 again sorry.

No it shouldnt unless your making stupid horsepower or big boost 25psi up (as clearances are generally increased @ these power levels). It should use no more than a new std rebuild.... ie nearly nothing. Poor piston choice could also be a factor but most decent brands run nice tight tolerances if put together right

yes.

on most gtr's we run it that way but they dont see vacuum in the plenum.

^^^ yep but thats bandaiding a problem not fixing it.

we dont do engines anymore (no time) so dont do any more oil analysis, but based on previous experience after the first oil and filter change our are pretty close to being normal (no excessive anything) in all instances.

^^^ yeah i lunched a one in cats car due to a dodgy sump and pickup arrangement (ASR or high energy built me one that fixed the issue) and it burnt the big ends due to oil starvation. soon as it (rb26) spins a bearing the cranks bend like a bannana and often crack near the radius. Ive havent seen a 26 with damaged mains after oil starvation unless it was driven for an unreasonable distance.

about 50,000 dollars plus airfreight to Paramaribo, Suriname

yeah i always thought so but it is less than we think. STD VE is listed @ 270rwkw (this figure is derived without accessories so is high) untouched on the dyno it reads 201rwkw both auto and manuals tuned make the same RWKW to just about the dot so in this case auto vs manual is moot. But generally the skyline stuff has a drive line loss of around ~40rwkw from engine dyno (full accessories) to chassis dyno.

all good