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yeah, good point always keep a 500rpm header.

no adverse effects. i even re scale the load points around cruise and the high end load

yeah, its different for many cars so just find what works for you. feel free to email me the file and im happy to look over it. [email protected] (im working on a few projects at home atm so have a few spare mins)

With the d-jetro look @ other settings too like inj vs accel etc... big gains to found there. also tighten up your scale for better resoluton around peak torque. Tip: inj vs accel will fix all your throttle (dead spots, jerks etc) transition issues. Many times the base map is over adjusted which means the fuel economy sucks, set your main map to your desired target A/f's without a dyno or anything (@ this point values are arbitrary see attached rough target a/f map) then adjust /tune your base map injection values on the dyno with an A/F meter so that they give you the desired A/F you commanded in the main map... any hesitations can be dialed out via inj vs accel. If you do it this way you can make changes on the fly to the main map without a A/f meter (say @ track day) because your changes in the main map are secondary to the base map.(providing the base map was setup on the dyno like i posted above)

had nothing but trouble with W2A they heat soak way to much, i even tried a 600x400 radiator and an extra reserve in the boot to slow down heat soak. Under bonnet temps just kill the benefits... if you could mount the w2a in the cabin away from under bonnet heat it would be great.... just not practical.

yeah we do quite a few make sure its not an early version 3 that cant rescale the load points.... real evil little fckrs. The motorsport stuff is real nice to work with.

increase to 10:1 on pump your crazy... on E85 then your talking. AEM ecu is awesome providing its the version 2. My favourite plug in ecu atm behind PFC.

haha i said turbo will be happy... nothing about the engine... dont think id try either 1500-7800 @ 9secs (on the lowest power correction mode so it gives me conservative results SAE J1349 (2004)) is what i use to tune (after all the f3 and f2 tuning is finished) then i do a 14sec run as a heavy check @ the end. Customer never gets a 14sec printout as its unrealistic response wise. This 9sec run gives near on identical peak rwkw to all the new Dyno Dynamics but without the inflated low and mid. The 12-14 sec run will give you the same response as the DD but about 4rwkw more peak.

yeah i thought so too... i bought a $99 one and it doesnt work Best ones are the datalogit(smoked black) one or the wolf one (white blue leds on sides).... different ecus like different adapters... its a real pain. Its one of the reasons i use a toughbook as the serial is rock solid and i no longer have to use usb-->serial converters....

nats is bypassed on any nissan with a pfc.... but they swapped the cas signals around on all nats equipped cars you they could not be stolen just by fitting a PFC S15's are the same... same ecu as a S14a but cas wires and pump wire swapped.

we did some comparos (billet vs std)with the T88-gk years ago as they originally came with billet compressor wheels, before tooling was finished for the normal comp wheels. There was minimal difference except for production cost.

yeah they will happily make power to 9000rpm on your setup Remember the dyno dymanics stuff always looks more responsive as the extra weight of the rollers adds extra load, we just spent a fair amount of time liaising with another shop and found the normal baseline run we do of 9sec from say 1500-7000 has less low end load applied. So its more equivalent to 12-13 seconds.

nah they are the same. PFC negates nats and cas wires need swapping. EL Hand controller is the best marketing rort since since Y2k compliant calculators..... i hate them.

all the stand alones haltech motec link vipec etc have scales in kpa so its common to tune in kpa, then switch to customer freindly psi @ the end. Its confusing to start with thats for sure... bit like lambda vs afr.

told you so... love my T67's nice result.

i will post back to backs.... the lemans feel terrible on the street and the comparo on the same dyno with the same ramp rate also shows how average they really are. (will post tonight)

ive dioded them up in the past on 1 car, not ideal but from a tune and driveability perspective you would never know. maybe i got lucky but as long as the afm curve is smooth it should be ok. other option is to run one z32 in the cooler pipe.

ijm talking the rb i spoke about earlier, that v8 with the roots will be more like 800rwkw and yes flow goes exhaust-turbo-FMIC-charger-intake mounted cooler-intake- engine.

its actually very simple to rig up if you can weld. Just a y pipe from charger and turbo (one way plumber valve on charger side so boost does not push back on charger)

unfortunatley many people want more power, so there is definatley merit in a compound system especially if your handy. The 370rwkw compound setup i listed above was done at home in the garage for less than $1500 including buying the charger and all relevant parts. 370rwkw with the same response as your setup..... WIN WIN.

where are yo located? i only ask as i am in and out atm. It would take 5mins to make something up map wise and would be happy to do it. how soon could you get it to me?

have you got fc-datalogit? if so i can email it.

having dejavu nice thread here: posted more info there... sorry i cbf posting it again. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/221928-mufflers-design-input/page__st__20__p__3916243__hl__hooker+aero__fromsearch__1#entry3916243

haha thats what ive been using for the past few years, good on most applications can be a bit restrictive of real big hp stuff but generally ok. If you want loud run a oval mid (str8 through) and resonator @ the rear

^^ exactly they are generally fine with owners who have a clue about wiring and electronic principles, in fact give good results on the cheap as the owner can get most parts (triggers sensors etc from wrecking yards)but the the problem is most people with no clue see the price then buy it. try install it... fail then drop it to a workshop to sort out.... which is a night mare for us as often it is cheaper and easy to rip the lot out stick a std loom back in nistune it...