STATUS

As sad as it is it is rarely a tuner fault, i dont know this car or situation but by the sounds of it and the mods a tune should not realy kill it... i mean it would have to be pinking BADLY for a long time to blow up or run lean for A LONG time to blow up. Yet a slight oil starvation at some point in time could have burnt bearings etc and it was just its time.. i dont know, but to be honest unless you heard it on the dyno detonating its head off (or a dead wideband sensor) it could be anything.

yep only benefit is with aftermarket cams.... and even then some require work to refit the vct anyway.

you will cool more water than oil. The surface area of the water to oil cooler is too small.

ex autobarn guy?

the avcr is a little long in the tooth now.

for sure. Blitz DSBC has twice the resolution and speed, simple physics.

Transcar, Sam @ drdrift or Creatd

s15 diff ratio is around 3.69. the neo DE engine is good only for E85 forget 98ulp Use r33 xmember and mounts the lot will bolt in. having done lots of rb conversions into S series including our 400rwkw rb26 in s13.... forget it. build the sr it will handle better and with e85 will make decent power and torque. @ the moment my favorite customer car is a built SR with a simple gt-rs on e85 280rwkw 22psi and it is on boost in a blink and pulls all the way to a low limiter of 7200rpm... absolute weapon.

based on the graph on the previous page i would say it would be worth about 50hp @ 4250rpm.. not bad for free

no it wont fry coils if setup correctley

Not a chance a 2.6 and t04z (pump) is never even close to that unless its running a bullshit ramp rate. a genuine 454rwkw and 4000-4400 full boost threshold is a pipe dream for a 2.6 litre, i reckon a tighter gate spring or an adjustment in preload (jap gates have the preload / travel limiter) would have it on full song @ 4000. i had a T78 with the same curve and we kept winding in the gate pre-load until it ramped to full boost without the slight curve.

email the tune file through and i will take a look @ the cranking ms

Blitz.

No issue, if its tuned around the cruise etc it wont make a difference in fact may return better economy.. We are having a few issues with rb25's having soft valve springs... more boost introduces a weird power drop. Replace springs and bingo all good but the r34 is usually no issue and it usually happens around 280rwkw

PM all replied too. Please understand freight is @ your cost i wont factor it in as many are asking to send it interstate or internationally. i am a little flexible on pricing but ive been offered a trade in price similar to what im selling it for so no silly offers.

Not right. @ 216rwk (290hp) check intake pipe and exhaust. there should be another 15-20 with the 0.63. Dont expect 290 without the 0.82 rear.

base wastegate spring of 10psi will generally taper down a few psi @ 20psi (say 3-4psi) base wastegate spring of 15psi will generally taper down a few psi @ 20psi (say 1-2psi) It is best to run a spring closer to your set pressure. TTheory often doesnt always relate to real world results..... as manifold design turbo design, gate position etc all contribute. but if you stick to one rule (It is best to run a spring closer to your set pressure.) you will generally be @ a good starting point.

Blitz use dual solenoids to quicken response and control (as it has double the resolution) Blitz call the their version of turbosmarts gate pressure control "gain" so look for any controller that has gain functionality. Greddy call it "set boost"

ask a qld SAU member to pick and pack it for you (pay em of course)

comes down to how game you or your fitter is? i was running 235's on 11's and 12's and your finger would fit between lip and bead

buy bc's the ksport - g4 and d2 stuff all seems to be the same thing... i had plenty of them die prematurely.

bahahahaha... not helpful but i like the comment "I'll be honest ive driven it hard a few times to see how it goes.." the amount of dead gtr's ive seen cause of this same sentiment cracks me up. PS its idling smoother cause its way richer, dont drive it too much as you will start to wash down the bores. usually we recomend only driving to the tuners with that sort of injector upgrade.

yeah thats the one, cant find a pic and the digi is flat.

yeah you can filter out most other noises only issue is engines dont just die from det etc... so for me i like to hear a spectrum of noises not just the det frequency. Unfortunately not all cars that come in are fresh so your average 120k import is actually more like 220k and you want to hear loss of oil pressure, or any other noise which may occur. Because the det cans are centred one one frequency they tend to "pop" over the top of the other noise. One could easy turn all other noise off and miss something else more sinister.

get hold of a RF filtered USB cable, or try running a cig lighter usb powered cable.