STATUS

Payment was made yesterday sorry.

i would not play with the std manifold much they are prone to cracking as it is... could end up with a real expensive paperweight.

HKS DLI and td coil packs 1000hp no issues, we know they work.... but they aint going to fix a car with other issues. We had endless dramas with another car over 22psi and even a new set of splitfires did not work.... fitted new std itmes and the HKS unit and bang just shy of 500kw no missfires at all... removed hks unit and it misfired refitted it all good.... proof enough for me.

^^^ OR SR20 they hate high comp, ive had a few lately that have been raised and wont take more than 2 degrees up top and are limited to 16-17psi... Perfect for E85 but when they were told they were to suit bp98 its no good... engines have since had head modified (quench pads removed) and are now back to 12-15 degrees of timing and 22 odd psi and another 30-40rwkw more with no discernible loss in tractability. 9:1 no issues on a rb though and on E85 should be even less of a worry, we are using 13.5:1 in NA e85 applications.

with those turbos id just use a set of cam gears, advance up the intake 4-8 degrees and plot the results, then play with the exhaust but in small increments. If not i found the Greddy procams 264 with 9.7mm lift to work real nice compared to the poncams but ive only compared them in engines making at least another 50rwkw over the gtss so it not a real help but a good cam comparison nonetheless..

yeah it can be done, rb26 has larger head studs/bolts though.

its lpg, i just cant remember your map setup atm ben so i will check in the morn

check the fuel pump control it may only be running half speed, had a few do this. (fuel pressure gauge and volt meter)

will look into it, will jump on laptop in the morning

was heading to 450rwkw but no injector duty left. Sold pending payment

jjr may sell them separately?

email me the map if you want id be happy to peruse it.

http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1269 i loaded a start map here http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=1274

ah, least you can always go with the best... pete or morpowa.

bugger thats been repaired once too... any radiator shop could fix it or drop it past tao.

injectors sold pending payment

loser...

Yeah it was a r32 GTR item 115mm but ive welded cooler pies to one side (see pics), just need to cut it off, simple job but ive reduced the price because its no longer buy and bolt on...

Fully rebuild RB26 head with Oversize ferrea valves, Ferrea titanium retainers, Ferrea valve springs, Ferrea spring Locators Ferrea valve locks new buckets and shims, New guides and seats. GREDDY procams 264 duration & 9.7mm lift Part numbers 13525220 & 13525213 pics below Ive added the current cost to buy the head components below.... add machining, new buckets and shims and camshafts etc and the head owes me a shiteload... 5-odd thou built for big power and to rev 9000+rpm. It has rear drain if you want it. $3400ono

Simon @ morpowa, PETE from Nistune are the only guys i reccomend in SA for nistune (person experience), there are other great tuners but these guys know nistune in and out. Jeff @ speed lab and brenton from 4's & more are also good ive heard.

Go direct, fulcrum are Greedy Kents (look what they did to tein) and they load everything up to much. i saved shitloads going direct, id much rather line Todd Selbys pockets than graham's. I just had custom ones made for our race car and am about to send off the BMW 750il ones to have made too. Signature sway bars 02 95255619 price was half what you guys listed.

Bingo the open ones seem to give better results, even on sr's.

yep im glad paul picked up on this as i was about to type GTRS... now i reckon nothing as the r34 smic is useless with anything bigger than stock... even running 14 psi on the std turbo they heat soak so quickly its not funny (14 to 16psi only on some guys who wanted a KW figure usually we run no more than 12-13) Even the ARC smic are useless, we logged a S15 @ winton and it made 1 lap before the ait started pulling lots of timing. Put a turn flow ARC on it and it never pulled any.

Bingo bingo and bingo. I went to all the trouble of doing the rear drain on cats car then tested it on the dyno..... even with it disconnected and running 7500 for close to 15sec (don't recommend this unless you own it ) is still stayed dry...

i would high mount those turbos.... cause they will need replacing often -7's or -5's with -10's as the last option.