STATUS

BCPR's the BKR are shorter and can cause arcing between plug top and cop (premature cop failure).

ah i didnt know you went, did you get mugged in LIZBEF?

vortech vs whipple

similar outputs (520 vs 560rwkw) ^^ different chargers (these were the only two graphs on my comp which where close in peak power)

We see alot of supercharged domestic cars and i can tell you now most of them (vortech style) are laggy dyno queens, the twin screw are the only way to go. i should post some boost curves from vortech, kenne bell and harop chargers vs turbos... you will be surprised. My thoughts on supercharging fall into two groups, dyno queen or useful I prefer to use a whipple (twin screw) style setup as boost is more turbo like ie comes in and stays constant whereas your vortech style charges increase boost with rpm so peak power and boost is always @ peak rpm... great for dynos, crap for daily livability. The whipple will hit target boost quickly and offer FAR GREATER area inder the curve, much like a turbo setup. Here is a comparison boost curve vortech vs turbo Here is vortech versus whipple supercharger. Twin screw ---> Vortech --->

Get a FPV F6, its faster, handles better (even better than your gtt, try low 1:42's at winton std) and it great as a daily. If you get bored then flash it and then you will have no hope of being caught by any flashed HSV. Im downright amazed at what we pull from flashed F6's....

ours has a broken spring

parmie time, or is there a good house meal anyone recommends? Hamish your the masterchef, whats good?

yup nismo or tomei drop in, no mods no fuss.

Low mount T67 with a blitz dual exit gate. Credit to ben and his old man.

repping it it for status and std rb25's

just wind the boost up on the setup you have now, if done right it will last long enough for you to make a decision worthy of keeping the 20 or upgrading, the 20 should give good service at 20-24psi if tuned well.

this lady has class.

bullet in SA, its where most decent 26 heads from around the country end up.... best work ive seen on rb26 heads so far. CNC ftw everytime http://www.bulletcylinderheads.com.au/nissan_rb26.php http://www.bulletcylinderheads.com.au/

Most Ecu's will work with a pull up resistor. The sensor is not cheap but in the scheme of things $500 (max for new version, as old versions are unreliable) is not too bad for the convenience of filling up anywhere. Im working with a ecu manufacturer at the moment to integrate the inbuilt diag so it will set off the engine light if it goes out of spec (same as in factory installs) I will check that thread out now

you could also do it via a permanent wideband sensor, but sensor degradation over time would need to be monitored. A dead sensor would wreak havoc.

Link supports the seimens sensor, if a megasquirt can do it i reckon my calculator should be able to work it out

True, or get rid of the variables...... Thats why i bought a dynapack (even though i was a dyno dynamics user)... i can never get accused of fudging figures...

just set it up as flex fuel, the G4 should have no issues.

what coils? i have a few good setups.

they are nice but the problem of split bores becomes a real reality... ive seen a handful now.

yeah, a 26 is gonna be a big investment and honestly a rb25 will make 95% of the peak of a similar tuned 26. if you go 25 all your "hot" side will bolt on (turbo gate etc...) you could do a forward facing plenum and use all the rb20 fueling system you have. i love rb20's but a turbo like yours will love an extra 500cc.

there is a R33 (last months of production) motor i know of with 65,000kms going for $3500. i would not waste my money on a N1 engine either.

nice car btw, just read other thread.

you know if it was me, just put a rb25 in there, then you can use everything (rb20 loom, pfc etc). Spend $1500 on a decent std rb25 and 330-350rwkw. Thats what id do if it were my car. just sell the core rb20, is it built or std? looking at power its made im reckoning std with very mild tune. A good rb25 bottom end should last as good amount of time if tuned properly, we have a few customers making that sort of power with t67's on std rb25 (for about 3-4years)