STATUS

old v8 trick from the 70's class F red insulating paint, its great until it peels, but peeling is not overly common. Commercial Diesel's have come factory with this coating for decades. heres the gear (aussie dealer) if anyone wants to use it: http://www.ppcco.com.au/fact_sheets/pi/pi_glyptal.pdf

Its an SR20 thing turbo snout and airbox are too close and custom intakes pipes create bad reversion older version PFC's hate it.

Bingo

Yeah sounds about right. It reads on average 15 less than drdrifts, mine and rob at sabbadins at that sort of power.. OP- Just do all your mods and re run it on the same dyno, don't care for the actual figure just concentrate on the gains made, RE's is a great shop.

sweet ride thats for sure.

i bought the first rx6 kits in back in 2000, the original kit ended up being sold to JMS and went on danny's r33, which then got sold to mark phillips (legend too btw). Some of the best turbo kits around. But twins on the gtr (named the V-max SPL kit) is realistically 1000-1200odd horsepower, a single rx6 rb26 kit is good for 500-600hp i remember sourcing the smaller rear to make it more responsive on mark car, i got to drive this setup at mallala one drift event (i was shit scared of damaging it so i sucked bigtime) and the car was a real weapon made killer power yet responsive to boot. Have a look at the turbos as the rear housings sizes are p13 being the smallest to p27 being the largest. The frame will be a TCW number and i do have some compressor maps for the TCW77, TCW76, TCW15 and the baby TCW10

Its got the correction setup to flywheel..... its all flywheel measurements.... not wheel measurements ooh and the correction is set to SAE which is an older measurement (gives about 5-8% inflation) switch it across to SAE 2004 (latest rating)

Ive had a few come through wanting quick sales, overseas students returning home. one was 10k with a blown diff....... if wasn't just about to leave for the usa i would have grabbed it. Another customer just bought a black auto for 16k, needed slight paint work as clear had peeled on front guards and bonnet... $600 in paint.

Yeah i do remember now, just after we opened it had a real bad case of PFC 'itis. Most of the rubbish idles on pfc's are cause of the intake pipe and afm position..... but some pfc's dont care either way.. its weird, i think build number has a lot to do with it as the early serial numbers are way worse.

they are winding up aren't they?

definately ^^^

yeah 3 or 4 now. I tried one myself for a while before letting a few of my customers buy one off ebay.

that turbo on a 26 is sweet. use your 20 coils and cam gears and turbo.

its like lego for car geeks... love it.

would not believe it i actually have an SAU'ers car on the dyno as we speak (rb20 in a cefiro) doing the same thing. I will post up dyno graphs later. This has the CAS weirdness too. Car hits 190rwkw and nose dives back down.... Replaced CAS pulled 220rwkw on the first run with new CAS. The only way to check it 100% is to actually strobe the ignition on the dyno (unsafe unless you know exactly what your doing) Best bet is to swap out the cas with a known good one whilst on the dyno. This car drove like normal, no stutters... no weirdness at all.... only felt weak up top.

my pick ATM (300-330rwkw 18-20psi) http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbocharger-Mitsub...#ht_2417wt_1137

like ash said the 3076 (0.8 rear) is also good.

i wouldnt, i would use the std rail, but you just block the centre port in rail and put the reg on the rear outlet. Greddy rails come with a block off.

These look pretty sweet for those who fab up manifolds and the like, nice and easy to to test different layouts without the need for expensive cad design. http://www.icengineworks.com/icewmain.htm

For 15k your could get a tt supra if you shop smart..

the ext sensor should make no diff, 99% of cars have that lit up as the exhaust places usually fix it with side cutters

this and all the stupid high mount SR20 ones.... all junk.

pic with description

What is your abilty? as size is dependant on driver quality and chasis setup... the more you progress the more and more grip you chase in the rear (many of us run semis on the rear 265-285) in size end so obviously you need more power to turn them. For entry level to mid i recommend GT3076 (with the larger rear) or a 10cm T67 is also a killer drift setup for RB26 (i had a few T3 versions around for about $1200) for mid to high level i recommend Gt3540 or equivalent (we run the blitz K5 which performs better but cost twice as much)

another option is to bolt all the stuff to std engine and pay a decent tuner to fly over and tune it, should last and will save you 10's of 1000's