STATUS

yup ^^^ we just pulled mid 400's on a sr20, std inlet and TB. Std will be fine

whena wide band starts to die it reverts to 20:1 and up to eliminate the chance of it going un noticed

i would not say better, consult does more things, shows more live info than a hand controller can dream of.. i would just say different

danny will the rb26 buckets fit on the exhaust? i only just saw this post so i will mock one up 2moro as i have a rb25 head and rb26 setup sitting on the bench

we get -5 and -7 / -9 through all the time with most injectors (tops painted yellow) cam gears and untouched power tune all the time, the emission test is easy to pass, all you would need is a remapped std ecu there are plenty of guys remapping std ecu's nowadays. Best bit is you make 350+ wkw and pass epa without having to pull components off. You may find your GTR to be high on the NX levels with big turbos and std ecu but you should pass.

yeah they are not bad, we did alot when the whole VIPEC thing was beaten to death on here, we supplied a lot of LINK as they were cheaper, but it has slowed down lately as many are buying the new haltech platiniums. This thread is just about the new GUI, not the ecu as there are 100's of threads on the LINK VIPEC ecu itself but no video of the GUI. i like it when they upgrade the gui's as some are terrible to use...

depends, if the pump housing has to much rotor float you are up for a new housing and this gear set..... which is the same as wholesale on something decent. If you have a few housings that are in spec then yeah it makes sense.

Ah figured as much, i haven't been on their site much lately. It also seems the "fad" has worn off and less are getting around, im seeing more new haltech s come through nowadays

Much like Haltech, upgrading the user interface has made great ecu's even better. Knock Link for all the link G4's demo

we did back to back with four filters in an s15 when developing the DRIFT filter range, we tested DRIFT, KN, Apexi and BMC. Drift came in first then the BMC. For the price of the drift filter who CBF cleaning it? just throw it away and get a new one

impact screw driver or allen in the SR20 case. We run new rotors in all our oil pumps (sr's) as thety are $80 from nissan. As for rb26 i would track down whoever is making these as i cant image many places tooling up for it. Is TufRX3 (karl) doing them? i cant see the point in buying billet gears... i would just buy a decent pump.

id hazard a guess they are all the same.

why on earth did the PFC not work? in 12 years of playing with them not once has there been an issue like yours...... in fact the PFC ignores allot of minor issues the NISTUNE wont, chances are the nistune will be worse than the PFC in your case. The PFC only cares for AFM voltage, tps and CAS the rest it ignores..... the NIstune requires just about every sensor to be in check or it will throw a code and depending on the model may not have a DTC check box to keep it ignored. If the PFC wont run either the tuner CBF'd or they didnt tune it..... there is an underlying issue with your car that wont be sorted with any management, which can often be a biatch to find. Any good workshop should have no issues though. If it was me id have the PFC back in it in a heartbeat.... and find the issue.

I wont use the R32 ecu's as its more frigging around than the z32 if you want a good result.

The only way to reach the cells you talk of are to rev your car to redline and quickly let off the accel and coast ie above 5200 rpm with no load and it will only pass through there on the way back to idle, soon as you add any throttle it will be out of there in an instant.

Correct (i agree wholly) and to add to that the factory system only has closed loop knock control to around 4000rpm (model specific) so if you find it is reliable you can raise it via nistune.

i would pull the injectors and get them cleaned and flowed, secondly i would check the output pulse on the injector loom and ignition loom for each cylinder. I would suspect 1 and 5 are the issue if the other 4 are consistent.

seriously one of the simplest boost controllers..... generally they are fine. But they cant compensate for a badly set-up actuator system or incorrect pre-loads.... no controller can. The Blitz is by far the best but the Profec B comes in a close second. the thing that confuses most is the gain (rate of ramp) and set boost or start boost (boost level it will start to control) often the gain is to high and it spikes or the start boost is too close from the final boost level.

the rear turbine separates from the shaft.

you physically are out of fuel, pump most likely.

front bumper park assist

Issue is the big drop in timing in the factory tune, you will need either a remap or a new tunable ecu. Have a look at the timing numbers in this R33 map from 4800rpm onwards load areas 72-on (timing drops from 20 to 16 which is around 20kw in one fatal swoop. Thats why part throttle (lower load) will actually make more power as it will run along load point 56 which has 26 degrees Nissan aint stupid they know exactly what goes on once the car leaves the showroom.... call it built in safety.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/post-a284940-

need better pics, ie off bearing shells, close up of oil ring (via jewelers eyeglass to check for dusting) close up of damaged piston, bore pics and piston skirt pics.

AEM version 2 has the best knock map-style functionality ive seen so far, VIPEC and LINK have an ok system it as do the new Haltech's and most MOTEC (once enabled) so its not really an issue if you want it as most decent ecu's support it. The NISTUNE setup is pretty cool and very easy to setup on your basic std engine but like all knock systems becomes harder once the engine and car become more modified, clutch choice, engine clearances and lash type can all play havoc with the knock sensors which require recalibrating to the "new noise" introduced with such modifications.