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Check it on another dyno to make sure it is the car, if the A/F sensor is on its way out they default to 14.5:1 so it could be a failing A/F sensor, that curve is also very common in such a scenario.

gtr bovs do the same thing, as do most skylines.... helps dampen intake reversion, among other things.

rwc only. I just picked up our new car from Qld, got a roadie and went to vicroads and handed in the plates, paid rego and stamp duty got my vic plates and left... nice and simple and car is not required for any inspections etc...

true its a rip, but i havent seen many other products give as good a result (most is application) ive seen alot of budget candies that look hazy.

remember some paints push 1000 a litre too... i had a candy 180 in here that had 5k of paint on it without any labour or prep... im not going to post what that job cost as its not my car, im sure vu can advise you to how much it would cost.

easy repairer, if you know the right people. Dont stress it too much.

Speak to Vu at DT does all my work including my old 1977 LTD in jet black (worst possible job to give any shop) and it is coming up a treat. Everything is relative make sure you explain what kind of job you want to the paint shop, most guys want quick spray jobs so get charged appropriately, if you want a show stopper then make sure your prepared to pay for it. I see alot of people commenting on shops work without comparing the costs. I know VU will do whatever you ask. Athids cover car was one of the nicest paint jobs around and i can tell you noone else could do it for the price of DT's.

makes perfect sense.

these are the the rims i eluded to in my earlier posts that failed at symonds plains, its also interesting to run them up without tyres on a balancer after a few track days (or pot hole hits) and find out how out of round they become.....

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/MAC-Solenoid-Valve-...=item2c5489223d Turbotech has them in stock $12 a pop

the best thing to do with a bee-r Limiter is to bin it.

18-20 psi is your friend... 16 is just not enough on a 2835 pro s.

Tbh i would fit a r32 ecu and nistune it as the set-up is mild, but if you plan on upgrading later on to top mount set-up then D-jetro is a good bet.

i remember a black r33 when i used to hang out at CREATD, Std internal and cammed RB25 with Trust Td06sh-25g (10cm) turbo kit, power fc, z32, 850cc injectors bosch 040, twin plate, std 5pd manual, std suspension, std front wheels and ford stock rears with MT's ran 10.6 consistently.

you can get good economy with it switched off, provided the fuel mapping and afm curve is right. You will need to check it over. My GTR used to get 595kms out of a tank and make 360awkw... no o2 sensors at all...

have not read the whole thread but i hope you keep an eye on them.... i have seen heaps of broken rota wheels, DA 3 years ago in tassie (symmons plains) saw about 5 rota wheels buy the farm.

too many variables.

have you noticed at is 14 degrees and intake temp is 43.... nice way to inflate power. That said check your pump and also check boost as it must be pretty high if its making over 210-220rwkw, they like to drop exhaust wheels over 13 psi. also check the feedback 02 setting it could be trying to pull to an unrealistic setting (1.047 should be ok) or your o2 sensor is shagged.

INCORRECT use only a auto ecu if your car is auto, both work but the shift map goes up the shit if you use a manual ecu..... i have tested both and the drive ability of the auto ecu in a auto car is leagues ahead of the manual ecu. Things get amplified even more when you mod the trans (hi-stall and shift kit) in fact the last hipo auto 180 we did had heaps of trans issues until we swapped in a auto ecu (no idea how a manual one ended up in there).

then the z32 was setup wrong, ive had 2 now from other places who did the z32 ecu conversion and both were done wrong and resulted in poor running. The R32 ecu is inferior to the tune of around 30-35 horses ATW due to its lack of vct. I have endless dyno graphs to prove it. http://forum.nistune.com/viewtopic.php?f=8...274&start=0

The au gear should fit, Ozeparts is were i got my last set. it may be worth a visit just to measure one up in person as it has alot of overlap which you trim off anyway (so less overall depth). Benefit is its cheap... about 13/ to 1/4 of the price of the flexalite gear (even though i used alot of flexalite fans over the years). It does require triming up but im sure your more than capable and would find it a piece of piss.

use the ecu sender (large one) not the small dash sender (small one).

you can take the outlet line off the block (that goes to cooler or remote filter mount) and fill it with oil, then wind the engine over backwards by hands and keep topping it up as the level drops, put about 200-500ml back down the line then reassemble. Crank engine without plugs and oil pressure should jump up quickly. make sure you fill your oil cooler and oil filter too.

$169 rrp http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Up...mp;hl=drift+fan http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/25...ti-t200088.html

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