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Not to be rude but is blatantly clear that the ramp rate was changed for the both cam gear changed run to make it look better.... so the graph is pointless and misleading.

Ash was stating only the factory ones tend to be open at idle, which is true. the trust ones are shut @ idle.

that cars been for sale for ages claiming to have 1100hp.....

put the turbotech back on. the powerup one cannot hold boost properly and loses response compared to the turbotech item. Invest in the new turbotech dual stage controller. (im yet to use the new dual stage but if its based on the old design there will be no issues) i dont see the need for multiple boost levels.... my right foot is usually the best controller. http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turbotech-Electroni...=item335cb7f931

you should be able to xfer maps without any costs we often do it on the bench tester, its pretty much a 2 min operation. If you cant find the root issue it is pretty simple to rig up a relay that drops the constant power to the PFC so it cant cycle on and off. We see alot of power fc's (repair a shit load) and yes there are quite a few with silly idiosyncrasies but most are car induced damage not the other way around. Try the contstant power relay mod, just be aware to bypass it when making changes to the power FC say every time you get it tuned.

If your after power forget the platinum iridium stuff. Coppers are always preferred in excess of 300-odd fwhp as the coils don't have enough energy to jump the spark, if your running a twin power or cdi unit then you can get the best of both worlds and run iridium or platinum.. As suprising as it is the manufactures are trying to force us across to iridium etc as they make more money we do alot of dirt bike riding and ofetn the stuborn bike in the paddock is the one with ngk has "up-specced" irriduim instead of the trusty copper ... we whack in a b9es or similar in and presto.... new bike. If its close to stock run exotic plugs if your after power and only have split fires etc then run coppers.

buy a stage motor and swap your mods onto it, or buy a r33 gts4 NA and swap your mods onto it.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Td....html&st=20

dont forget you will need to shim the solids to get the clearance right.... and swap out the springs just in case they are a bit soft (common rb25 issue).

run the bov as loose as possible, as is sounds like its not opening fast enough. Post a pic as the size of the discharge pipe could be the culprit.

Trent (confusing as im Trent) is on here, would be worth getting in touch. im sure they have a trader section on here too. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Me...port-m3999.html

That ecu should be ok once tuned correctly, ring EMS and find who they recommend to tune that particular ecu in your area. There is a big difference between some one who sells them and who actually is the best tuner and ems will point you in the right direction. That said the upper ranges of EMS are capable units and easy to tune. How far from mercury are you? http://www.mercurymotorsport.com.au/

bugger it was definitely the smaller rear housing not the 0.82.

I cant remember the exact specs but im sure it was std rb20 GT3071 @ 18psi i will see what info was on the invoice.

The dual solenoid boost controller is the best unit on the market. BUT if i was you to eliminate the boost controller fit a Turbotech (no other brand) bleed valve and test it, if the spike goes away it is your boost controller. I reckon it may be something else as i have a few customers running the single solenoid with no issues (yours could be shagged) joeyjoejunior runs the single on a gt2835 pro s without dramas.

R34's love a decent tune as they drop torque and power off in the mid range like nothing else, it gets worse the more boost you put in, its a safety measure. 12-13psi on the stock turbo will see good gains, i reckon the tuner tried to talk you out of the pump as he cant be assed fitting it.... bosch pump in a gtt is a bit of a pain, walbro fits straight in no mods. A bigger pump wont affect fuel consumption.

i would be proud to have that parked in my driveway, i reckon the stance, the graphics even the rear wing look agressive yet sleek... regardless of engine type.

bingo.

http://www.performancecar.co.nz/news-5900/...-vy-nzpc-146-04 2004 Holden Commodore (VY) Engine: Nissan RB26DET 2.6-litre DOHC 24V, factory internals, factory cylinder head, Master Power T-60 turbocharger, Trust air filter, 4-inch silicone intake hose, 600×300x80mm intercooler with custom GT-R end tanks, GReddy Type R blow-off valve, Tial 44mm wastegate, Bosch Motorsport 044 fuel pump, custom surge tank, NGK Iridium spark plugs, custom steam-tube headers, custom 3-inch downpipe, 3.5-inch exhaust, Trust mufflers, 50mm custom alloy radiator, twin electric fans, 32-row oil cooler, Link G4 Xtreme engine management system, custom wiring, custom oil catch can, remote oil filter Driveline: R33 GT-R gearbox modified to rear-wheel drive, Xtreme Drift Clutch triple-plate carbon clutch, 3.9:1 HSV differential, Harrop rear housing, modified driveshaft Suspension/Brakes: Modified Tein Super Street suspension, Tein springs, Whiteline swaybars and links, Nolathane bushes, factory brakes, uprated pads Wheels/Tyres: 18×9.5-inch TSW Beyern 5 wheels, 265/35R18 Dunlop Direzza DZ101 tyres Exterior: VZ Clubsport R8 bodykit, full black respray, custom Brown Brothas graphics/custom Mad Mike/CRE8GRAFX graphics, Ganador-style mirrors Interior: Buddy Club P1 Limited Edition bucket seats, Willans harnesses, Momo Drift deep-dish steering wheel, Momo GT-R gear knob, Tein EDFC controller, D2 hydraulic handbrake, custom 8-point rollcage, DisplayLink dash Performance: Dyno Power – 350kW @ wheels (15psi boost)

not exactly. But i agree compared to the kkr stuff there are far more responsive gear.

Yeah depends on the model, we do a fair few but the base models are real coarse and mega basic.

just make sure to use the r34 gear.

haha got a matching jacket too

there is more to it than just the looks. The angle of re-entry for gate gasses.... the fact the obx gear has no mounts for heat shields means more heat radiation into the bay and the fron dump radiates heat directly to the rear comp cover etc so it is all small things that make the R34 items the ones to use.... couple those shiny dumps with shiny manifolds and you have some crazy heat issues especially on the rear turbo as its getting blasted from the front and above, the only way to use staino gtr manifolds is to wrap them. OBX in the USA is equivalent to aussie Just Jap, generally a big buying house that brands the better gear as thier own. OBX dont make anything.. just source.