STATUS

what happened when you dialed in 18-20psi?

thats fine, and its SSGOhans car and results that we are trying to replicate with mark and nicks car, 18 dropping to 16 (i have all daniels graphs) is fine but we are getting 18 dropping to 12 with the actuator that was supplied hence i asked mark to upgrade. I understand it is never going to hold till redline with the 0.63 but the increase of boost from 12 to 16 with the bigger actuator could give us as 20-35rwkw.... a great outcome.

It takes 2 seconds to tell, if the damage on the piston is mirrored on the head it IS NOT DET.

boost to port 3 actuator to port 2 on the solenoid? nothing else tee'd into those lines? they must only go to the solenoid then directley to the actuator. Post a pic of the install. One other thing is the vacuum source to the main unit kinked or squashed at the firewall grommet?

Lots of videos on youtube plus alot of quick NZ drag cars use it.

The genuine NISSAN aftersales 3 bond is orange. i used to use about 10 tubes a week whilst working for NISSAN.... hence my hatred of it

i refuse to use that orange gear makes your work look half assed.. the whole point of nissan using it is to determine warranty jobs and if something has been apart before. The loctite numbers above are the grey and black equivs.

GT2860-7 or 9's Nistune or powerfc panel filter front pipe decent cat injectors if your aiming much over 300kw to BE SAFE, std r32 injectors are getting a big long in the tooth and can leak. 300-330rwkw easy, it kinda the stable mod diet for a R32 or R33 GTR nowadys.

HAHA cheers for the reference but i dont do that kind of stuff any more.... might get my hands dirty

no gasket. USE this part number from repco best stuff around and you can get it in grey and black so it looks invisble. RB26 or RB25 GTS-4 use loctite grey maxx part number 34238 RB25 or RB25 black sump use Loctite Black Maxx part number 39145

Dont drain it back to the sump, generally it gets condesation contamination etc and its the last thing you want back in the sump.

check that your solenoid is hooked up correctley. what is the boost run when the solenoid is removed from the circuit? ie boost source straight to the actuator?

We just finished rebuilding a rb26 for an SAU member... a reputable workshop fitted the oil filter relocator lines ass about...... every shop can make mistakes dont take anything for granted best bet is to check the line routing.

ooold skool, maybe early 2530 or similar.

set the gain to zero. then increase the duty up slowly whilst accel in 3rd or 4th (4th better) usually the duty will be between 30 and 35 to achieve 13-14psi BUT everycar is slightly different as the gate pressures vary slightly. once the boost is set increase the gain until it spikes then come back 5 points.

That sounds much better and is around the norm under modest ramping, makes much more sense. The hill scenario you describe represents a far higher "ramp" and it is definitely possible to see the boost your referencing to under such conditions, i use a "control" ramp to compare like to like setups which is the same as a flat road rolling on in fourth from 1500rpm which is less than the hill type scenario but almost identical to the on road conditions. We simulate the hill type ramps during tuning also but they give unrealistic boost response times. Please dont think im criticising your setup as it sounds awesome, hence my reference to "artificial ramp" in my first post, everyone checks the boost response different and is why it is only useful to use the same dyno and tuner for back to back testing, or a set routine or road to road test the changes..

its not hard. Drop the front crossmember. the engine just needs to be supported from above with something like a engine brace. We have done in chassis rebuilds this way. In and out in half a day. In fact we did wheezys (sau nic) car this way. use one of these to support engine.

Power isnt a problem but resolution becomes an issue if you after big HP etc... temp compensations (like AIT on GTR's) are also an issue but we are working on that now with pete from nistune. Mind you im talking 380awkw plus. The quality of the tune with nistune comes down to the available registers or addresses which are adjustable, these are getting updated regularly so it pays to keep an eye on them. For streeters i just cant get enough of the nistune gear hence why we do quite a few each week, for serious track cars i would loo at something like vipec, link or haltech. That said if any guru's know how to find the relevant registers hidden in the nissan ecu that are not currently accessible let me know.

id like to see proof of that, ive never seen a gtr make that boost without an artificial ramp rate especially @ 540hpatw

maybe cracked oil pickup. Hard to tell without having the car to do some tests. Did the shop think the dent was big enough to contact the pickup? if so drop the sump asap and at least check it over..

yep E85 will require alot of work on the cold start compesarion scaling and so forth. Best bet is to get the car warm tune it, then work on the cold start the next day. At least you then have a good "tune" to warm up to..... no pont spending hours on getting the starting right then having to rescale the maps once the real tuning begins.

Yeah the front pipes were NISMO not hks like i first thought.

actually it was 55mm primarys and 65mm secondary's my mistake.

trimming of front bar, bar reo etc... all normal for larger cores on GTR's. The R34 gtr cooler is good for big hp, just check you need one prior to shelling out.

Just use one sensor and splice the two signal wires together, use a source on the manifold for the map sensor only (dont use it for anything else like guages etc) Do you mean you need to use the gas pedal to make it fire or just to crank over, if you mean fire you need to pull some fuel as it is too rich.