STATUS

what map sensor?

Id say it was det an youve damaged a few pistons. Look at JE's or CP pistons, MLS head gasket and a FULL head reco (about $550 with guides etc). Get your valve springs checked too as rb25 (r33 not r34) have weak springs std and over time they can go soft.

turbo grenaded, soon your bottom end will follow driving it like that..

use a ford lighting maf.

something like that wont make it from crank galleries to top of piston though.

bingo. Isolate the solenoid.

http://images.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=...3OY3s7APwzenwCQ ^^^^^ hands down the best fullstop. Best factory setup is the R34 gtr getup.

Looks like a broken ring, valve guide or plug end. Are the rings still complete on No5? check the guide and see if they still protrude fully from the head. (ive had 3 rb26 heads come through with broken guides requiring rebuilds) Head will be fine with a weld and shave, piston can be reused with bit of creative work, all cheap. If your after huge hp then swap it out but for general duties i would not stress.

plus gst freight and tax yadda yadda works out to be $1650, or there abouts. Thats what we sell them for anyways.

100% will damage it. if you drive it hard.

Got to be this car.

dude... you own a GC8..... nuff said.

http://dck.com.au/index.cfm?pagecall=prope...pertyID=1311459

I think you and greg tuned my black FD a decade ago @ mildrens for zoom mag, but i have no taste. Still have a soft spot for a decent FD, not many come through nowadays that make the cut to go on the dyno.

Of course nissan is going to say that Speak to Beer Baron on here (richard, top bloke and has bought in a few R35) Oh quick point for all those talking about warranty to if you cant afford to break it dont buy, that is my motto for all cars im looking to buy. I learnt the hard way when i was an apprentice.... Heavily modded 911 porsche import came up i bought it and could never afford to keep it on the road.

I cant do it now but later tonight i will post the offset scale for the gm map sensor. E85 requires a bit of work on the cold start so just play with the inj crank vs temp scale. (generally add 20% @ cooler temps from memory)

Make sure you run a twin screw setup as they offer boost on demand unlike the centrifugal types like Vortech etc... here are two vortech charged cars and look at the difference in boost curves... Vortech and the centrifugal types are like your worst LAG nightmare and are only useful for dyno comps.... Here is your average boost curve vs a vortech; Here is Vortech vs twin screw (kenne bell type) and the comparo of the two setups running the same boost.

Agreed, any of the big HP RB's we have had through had the same issues, chuck in a set of new OEM coil packs and a HKS twin power and the sky was the limit.

Simple economies of scale.....

I have used blow through on a few cars (requires alot of work in the AFM voltage table) and 1000cc injectors on E85 without issues.

I prefer to use the later Z32 ecu's but main concern is to get a turbo auto ecu as a manual one will give you shift inconsistency's.

the reason E85 is capped at 85% is the fact any less than 15% pulp makes the cars a real cop to cold start. Biobutanol is my latest fixation.

that getup adds a baffled "catch can" into the std PCV and breather system. In the pic you posted the driver side outlet goes to the PCV and at cruise and idle has vacuum, under boost the pressure is directed out the passenger side oulet into the rear turbo intake pipe. The above catch can would only be a good idea if it was properley baffled internally other wise it is barely better than the std cross over tube. The lack of welds leads me to believe it isnt baffled but they may have been ground and polished out.

the fan's RPM is generally 25% of the engine's RPM below 62C, 80% of the engine's RPM above 85C, the speed/slip is controlled by temperature the temperature control is via the BI-METALLIC strip on the front of the fan... it does not care if your doing 100000rpm or 100rpm it will regulate the fan speed by temperature only.