STATUS

sold pending payment

Sard injectors fit no dramas. Depends on your turbos, we have back to back comparo with the stock plenum and the K5-660R and @ 400rwkw the EGTs were far more consistant between cylinders with the greddy, i have refitted the smaller rear turbo housing so power will be down to around 350rwkw and at that power it is overkill... plus it is too slightly too big for the s13 engine bay.

thats right if it has the 0.86 rear but about 1500rpm too late if its the 0.64 rear.... wait is this on a rb25? if so something is well amiss. actuator tension?

best bet is to pull a spark plug and fit a conventional lead from plug into end of coil-pack and read the timing directly off the lead, i have had a few cars misread (too much noise) from the rear timing loop..... its not common but i need to do it once or twice a month as the indicated timing is too far off centre to be correct..

$80 for the davies craig ^^^^

haha i could think of worse things to wake up under

yeah if anything on all the time is far more detrimental to off all the time.

NVCS is OFF from 0 - 1050rpm, then ON until 4700rpm, then OFF again until redline. Therefore the NVCS advances cam from 1050 until 4700rpm then it switches off allowing "normal" cam timing. If the vct was wired up to be engaged all the time it would be advanced from 0rpm to redline... this would affect power, hence my first post. If left disconnected top end power will not be effected only power to 4700rpm

VCT wont make any difference to top end, unless its powered up all the time. I would run it up with the std converter, but only after scoping the timing on the balancer and comparing it to the figures the EMS is "thinking" it is using. What ems is it? some are pretty crude in regards to map resolution under boost (no scaling adjustment).

this pump was used on our spare race engine and was bought new from Greddy japan about a year ago. the actual race engine was built up along side the spare so got all new parts including block and head etc... so all this gear is surplus. It has done about 500km on the dyno. It has been stripped cleaned and prelubed by the guy who does all our block machining etc. I have loctited the rear cover for extra security as we do on all our oil pumps. It is ready to install.

may split rail if need be. $700 for plenum no rail.

Thats why balsa wood is such a good idea.

bugger, one of the first rules is never to put cool water into a hot car as the heat shock warps and cracks things. I would pull spark plugs and try crank it over, if water gushes out of plug holes pull the head and go from there.

should have knocked it up in balsa wood and painted it

Other than looks there is no point.... the std rail is good for more than 99% of applications.

MD spares (genuine gasket kit) 1/4 the price.

sounds like it was a good event, will have to get our shit together (not be interstate every time one is on) and head up.

have a good std head (dissambled and cleaned ready for assy and shimming), and ITB setup. No covers though or intake plenum (only have a greddy one see for sale thread) i will go over it all in the morn and see if its good to go.

it sold the quickest of all the parts as it was hell cheap ($3k).

One of the best pumps on the market, save yourself some coin. $800 or best offer

Very nice intake plenum and has the provision to run two fuel rails (12 injectors) currentley runs one rail, save yourself some coin. HKS rail (not shown) is brand new and never used. $800 or best offer for pair

Good pump used pump. (sample pic) $100

Same pump (GREDDY, JUN and NITTO) and he can get it locally in the US.... why would he spend 150 + frieght and wait time for the same thing?

That i'd like to see, the extra 0.4 and the lift should work well with the 10cm.

I can tell straight up from that graph that the dyno operator has changed ramp rates to manipulate the curve... plain as day.