STATUS

i have been burnt badly by after market sumps, the only one we use now is the ASR / HIGH ENERGY ones.

yeah that is the boost chip. Pretty sure the last guy who came in upgraded the diff to a better ratio and lsd

E92 with flash tune and exhaust.

To reduce noise, i have a funny feeling this was fixed in a firmware update by haltech. Try searching their forum as i swear i read something like this about a month ago.

it can be as simple as a timing step just off idle or a lean or rich spot, fairly simple to locate (in a vacant carpark) and it is generally a bit of trial and error to smooth out. It took about 20mins of start stops testing to smooth a sr20 i did awhile back to the point it was imperceptible. Laptop and a tps vs timing log would get you on the right track to start, when it jerks look for a jump in timing in the log, if there is nothing there start playing with the ms values in the inj map. If that fails look at the accel pump values. I often see too much fuel in accel pump which can also load up the engine so it stumbles.

sweet, car sound nice too but it sounds like your in the wrong gear, maybe 2nd? bump up to third through the esses and slot into 4th coming onto the straights, it will extend your munji's (short) into oh-munjis (longer).

ive had a few through, i will chase up the graphs. From memory it cost them around $2000 for a "tune" and we did before and after and the only change was the boost Be wary though as most shops here just load in a generic german map which is usually just a boost cut speed cut and boost increase (for $2k), i had one M3 come in and lose 29rwkw, from 239 down to 210rwkw (and 30nm) with the so called leader in BMW performance's flash tune (see attached)

Darwinism, the more that die the less to worry about...... problem is they take innocent bystanders along.. sorry i have no sympathy for the drivers or passengers... i've got out of cars i did not want to be in, theres no excuse.

DT panels, have done just about all my mates cars, has one of my own cars down there now. VU, Van and Kenny the 3 paint and panel musketeers.

im sure ns.com could help out there.

Said Mx5 + ADAPTRONIC and T25g turbo @10psi using closed loop knock control. (graph shows B4 and after)

i reckon i could have one monday in trust greddy for about 300-320

You dont need different tunes, its a common misconception even more relevant with a microtech as it has the most basic calculations to determine mapping, the way an engine pulls through the mapping will be no different between drifting or circuit. One tune will do. Having done a few rb conversions (our current one attached (430rwkw)) i must admit they are a dog to circuit, they require allot of work just to get back to where you were with the SR20. Im a big fan of RB20's but in a s13 they offer to much weight over the front axle centerline and have poor low end performance a good SR20 will always be a better proposition. We run a RB26 in our current car and the work to get it to handle like it did with a 300rwkw SR20 was quite astounding and even then it is still compromise. Those who say a RB powered S13 handle well unfortunately must have never experienced "decent" handling The twin setup would be ultra laggy and pretty bad for drifting especially a beginner (a beginner needs power on demand to make up for small mistakes) i reckon a realistic boost peak at around 5000-5300rpm and you would need to up the limiter to about 8500 and up just to keep a decent power band that is useable. If your dead set on the rb20 then look at a TD06SL2-20g (i can now source them internally gated) it is probably the best all round turbo kit we have seen or used on the rb20 (with minor mods) again see attached

TBH i agree, most of the tuning issue's we run into with skylines revolve around coilpacks and afm's.

sweet im getting old so my memory isnt what it was, glad i was on track

i hate the fkn things, seriously if your a bored nerd that is happy with mediocre then do it... i refuse to touch them now (they are in the sin bin with wolf)

Selling my C34 laurel, need the room so it must go. Set up for RB (can supply SR gear too) R33 brakes all round Full cage with side bars (removable) Std bumpers (all in excellent condition) and aftermarket kit supplied (front aftermarket bar needs major repairs though) NO ENGINE OR TRANS BUT OTHERWISE COMPLETE (wheels are R33 stockies but the uras NS02 on there currently can be neg) $2500 Was fitting a RB26/30 (sold) but can supply RB26 in pieces or can supply finished with a complete 420rwkw RB26 package for those who are real keen.

Brand new blitz 850cc side feed injectors suit rb25, i also have the adapters to make them suit 1JZ and 2JZ. $840

For sale is this KKK turbo, it has dont very little work and is in perfect condition. It has a #13 rear housing which is best suited for engines 3-4litres. We used it on a rb25 (std) and made 285rwkw @ 17 psi. I have included the low mount external gate manifold for free as it requires the flange to me slightly machined, i noticed it was a little warped when i removed it. This is the same base turbo blitz uses for the K5 series.

it must have been plumbed wrong, the turbotech always bring boost on quicker than the std arrangement.

splash out, get a pair

WOFT

It can introduce reversion issues as the mesh helps dampen the pulses at idle and on decel etc.

I would bet your idler was 3/4 screwed before hand (its a common 32 thing), we have used a fair few 1000hp ATi's and never had any subsequent failures on the road.

yeah sorry it was $840, i will put some pics up later, it is everything you need to install them.