PRO_32

Long nose crank??

What's the clearance between od of collar and id of oil pump gear? Interested cause great price. Cheers

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DbwjtBPNRUQ

red bull Mercedes

Hahaha and here I was concerned about not having matching original engine and chassis numbers.

Thanks for your help mate. Just so I got this straight the chassis number does not have an original engine number allocated to it. Cheers

Yeah for some reason I thought the number would also be on the blue plate, and that would correlate with the block.

Ok so I thought the engine number was on the plate which it is not. Is there something I'm missing.

Good point i guess I can check if block number matches chassis? Strange that they would swap out a long nose crank for a shorty though.

Damn, can we go with the vspec II. Thanks mate love you work. I was checking cause I pulled motor out for rebuild and it has short nose crank so obviously not original motor.

Kbnr32rxf7s aa Thanks skyline.

Hi can someone please check, bnr32-309201 Thank you.

Oh good wasn't sure if it was being updated or not,

Are there spots available? would love to come to this.

So I guess the question I have is still what's factory clearance and is this what to aim for with new collar and gears or is this too loose? Limiter bashing is not really gonna be a problem as this motor is not really gonna be built for or treated like that.

Well my plan was to run some new gears be it reimax or some other local options most around the mid $400 mark in my standard pump and a collar but I'm just as worried about to tight as too loose and everyone seems to agree that Nissan may have left a large amount of clearance there cause of the flex from the i6 crank moving so much and pushing the gears into the pump housing. Ideally I would have liked to go a splined collar and gear set(2j style), but I have such limited info on the long term success of this solution for similar reasons. Fwiw when I pulled of the standard pump on short drive nose clearance was .43mm so about .017 in old money. With hammering witnessed on both crank and gear.

Just after the standard pump gear to crank drive clearance if anyone knows. Just checking mine as I'm getting ready to assemble soon and seems excessive to me. Cheer's

Due to work owning a my life again I won't be able to make it so my spot is available.

I'll buy the dumps posted to syd. Pm me for address and bank details.

And if it's going on a stand for a teardown and rebuild it's easier to loosen the crank pulley bolt whilst flywheel is still on. So loosen that first if that's what your doing.

Well apparently rebuilt box and new clutch about a year before I bought it. I've been lucky to have put 5k kms on it But who really knows. I thought buying a nice clean stock car would mean leaving it alone so I can play with the other car but all it's done is make he garage look even busier. Thanks for the replys guys. Here's a pic of plate and clutch for interests sake

Yeah pretty much what i thought looks discoloured prob due to heat, if the clutch has been treated hard it wasn't from me (previous owner) only strange thing I noticed was there would be a shudder pretty much every time I take off from a standstill no matter how I would let the clutch out be it riding it or gentle throttle or rev n dump always a momentary shudder I just assumed it was in the diff. Anyways thanks for the replies guys heads at the machine shop so I'll give it to him to machine the surface and convince the misses a nismo Coppermix is the only solution to this problem.

Ok so engines out so I guessing him berry single plate but are these marks on the flywheel normal

Compared to all the other aftermarket reputable ecu/flex setups still half price.

Please put me down for this.