PRO_32

Hmmm with mark on the dirty side he'll be lucky to be third by the end of the 2nd corner, Having said that i hope mark rips that little prats wing of into turn one.

Battery is brand new ( i think underpowered, rated at 380cca) Leads are 4g about 3.5m in length, Earthed in boot, in Cabin near battery in engine bay near original battery location and to the engine aswell. Well they are the major earths anyway. Terminals and lead fittings are all brand new. I feel like it could be the battery by the way its struggling so hard to turn the crank but why was it not a problem before?? Could it be the starter shitting it self? cheers Andrew

BTW ; Fuel pumps both prime and the fuel filter is brand new less than 100km and after draining the tank both pumps were blown clean with an airgun cheers

FWIW Last night i noticed it is starting a little more consistently however on the odd occasion it barely wants to turn the crank like the batt is dead or something. * The battery has just been moved to in the cabin, Is there a possibilty that this could be causing some of my grief? Cheers Andrew

The Issue Car hesitates to start (as if its a high comp NA) then just kicks over trying to start as if its out of fuel (its not) It will start every now and then and run fine. Bit Of Background I was in the process of draining the fuel out of the car via fuel return line on the rail, I didnt like the sound the (newly installed) 044 made as i ran the tank dry so i decided to pour 5l back in and fire her up again to make sure everything was still alright. At this point car struggled to kick over ( kinda like a dieing battery / really high comp NA motor that struggles to crank over but once the crank starts turning it's fine) So i thought ok as its jus a track car maybe the batt is a little low on charge, so i charged it (Full), Now it seemed to crank over somewhat easier but still not normal with a slight hesitation to begin with however now it was cranking and trying to fire however just would not kick over. Seems like its got spark by the way it almost fires up but then not. So i assumed it could be a fuel delivery issue so i took out the intank pump checked sock for gunk as i Did drain the tank, Cleaned sock and blew out lines with air then the 044 was checked and that seems fine too. Mind you during all this If i would let the car sit for a little while it would start and run fine and not stall At this point im thinking maybe its a battery / electrical issue so i took the (larger) battery out of my hilux and there was significantly less hesitation to crank over and it would start time after time, Whereas earlier if i did manage to getr it started it would run fine but turn it off and try to start it again and no go. Ok so i thought dodgy battery and went and bought a new one (run of the mill. roughly 380cca's) however apon removing the hilux batt and installing the new one similar hesitation it would start but still not consistently, generally once it does start it runs absolutly fine however switch it off and more than likelyit wont sart again till you let it sit for a while. Sorry if this is a bit long winded. VITALS: Car : R32 Engine : Rb25det Series 2 EMS : Nistune (Z32) AFM : Z32 Fuel : GTR lift pump, inline bosch 044, Siemiens deka 60lbs inj (running E85) Ignition : splitfire coils , Battery relocated in cabin ( multiple earths in cabin and engine bay) This is the info i felt was relevant if not let me know. Whilst i have fairly good mechanical understanding im hopeless with elecronics and i fear thats what this is so anyhelp to put me in the right direction greatly appreciated. Cheers Andrew.

Still a chance of a ballsy dive up the inside for Webz.

hahaha i think to many early superbowl beers..

landscapes changed a bit now with all the new Teams "cough backmarkers cough" they mate be trying to drum up sales with patriotic koreans maybe?

Dont know how much weight i'd give this but anywho, http://www.autoblog.com/2006/10/23/hyundai...ter-f1-in-2010/ cheers..

We'll he did not mention any trackwork at all.. Why would he need one for dirving around the streets.

Hey dude, Sounds like this car is not your daily drive?, so its easy then jus get a good VAC borrow (pay) from a good engineering shop, Clean it out as good as you can by using a fitting with a hose end for the vac and screw it in to the spark plug hole, then just start it and run it, You've already started it a few times anyways if it runs take it for a drive see how it is then jus do a comp test it'll most probably run if not it needs a to be pulled apart shit happens. jus do it, ya live n ya learn.

If looking at your engine the top left side of the pump housing is where the pickup from the sump feeds into your pump and bottom right pumps out so a leak near either of them could potentially cause. Pressure issues, but sounds like you got the leak sorted anyway.

You gotta unscrew the sump as the bottom of the oil pump housing makes up the front part of the sump flange, you wouldn't need to touch the oil pickup. Where bouts exactly is it leaking from? The paper gasket ( oil pump housing) or silicone gasket (sump)?

Good luck finding aftermarket unless things have changed recently (last two weeks) you can do the ring around and waste your time or you can jjus order genuine nssan rings which btw are cheaper than aftermarket anyway, Will be 5 to 10 days from japan think last time I paid 280. Btw standard size is 86mm x 1.2 , 1.5 , 2.8 Hope that helps.

It may not be as bad as you think. Do a leak down test it will tell you what's wrong and this decide where to go from there. Really shouldn't be as expensive as you think it's gonna be. Ps... Im Assuming you have basic mechanical knowledge and can do most of the labour yourself.. Cheers..

uhh i dont remember saying i would rather a knocklite INSTEAD of nistune pulling a bit of timing out, Jus saying it's a handy thing to have diagnosing a problem that you dont know exists is kinda hard.

You might be better of running a z32 ecu plus nistune so you can take advantage of vvt. My only gripe with the nistune is that you have no knock lite.

should we take a poll as to what the hell MW has done wrong in a former life??

I did but you did not respond. Check your pm if you haven't.

Just a quick question. Im looking into a crancase evac setup into my exhaust, Now most of the kits i've seen and info ive read for that matter say to set it up from the breathers on the rocker covers to the exhaust via a check valve but to me it sounds wrong, It would seem that the sump would remain pressurised and a partial vacuum would be created in the head tottally defeating the purpose (making it even more difficult for oil to flow down the returns. Im going to weld a fitting (or two) onto the sump running into a small oil/air seperator (like the ones found on air compressor's) then into the exhaust via a one way valve. I would also have the breathers from the cam covers venting to atmo via a baffled catch can. Im hoping for a partial vacuum in the sump whilst maintaing positive pressure in the head hopefully aiding oil to be (pulled) down back into the sump.. Am i missing something or doeas it sound about right? I have actually read this whole thread (while ago ) and remember this being touched on but dont remember what page(s) and it's painfull going through it all on an iphone so any info appreciated. Cheers

Lol you gotta be kidding mate. Whilst that comment might be bordering on the useless (so's this one anyway.lol) It is just an observation that another shtty smashed car that should really only end up at the wreckers is gonna get fixed up (hopefully properly but who know's as it's a big job thats not for the backyarder) and sold to some poor shmuck thats gonna see it once its tarted up and have no idea what theyre getting. To me that car is a writoff but anywho none of these comments belong in the for sale section For that i apologise. Free Bump anyway

feel sorry for whoever ends up buying this once it's all repaired.

What about legard's comments "that was a bit to aggresive by mark on Rubens, but he is an Aussie." LOL

CMON MARK!!!!!!!!!! Only 10 laps to go he'll be tbd first Aussie in 28 years to win. If there's any rbr car or engine failures I'm dead set taking the whole week off

Seems to me that you are getting the few cynics (sp?) cause most ppl could build a decent long motor for that price and the ppl that are going to go to the effort that you have on this head with regards to porting would probably prefer to buy a standard head and have it down to their own specs and choose who they want to do the work. I don't think it's a case of ppl not wanting to pay for decent gear but more so what your selling does. Of have a broad customer base, having said that seems like it's the goods and I wish ya luck with the sale. Cheers. Free bump.