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Everything posted by -33-
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Got a 0.63 on mine (RB25). Pushing about 5 psi by 2000 rpm, full boost (18psi) by about 3100 rpm. Great response, but has a issue with boost creep; the housing seems to just be too small on these things. Having said that, you may have more luck on an RB20. I'd put a picture up, but the uploads arent working
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R33 S1 Bitz & After Market Parts
-33- replied to RBJ3T's topic in For Sale (Private Car Parts and Accessories)
PM sent for suspension -
ITEM: Crank Angle Sensor for RB25 Engine. CONDITION: Working fine when I pulled it out PRICE: $120 LOCATION: S.E. Suburbs, Melbourne CONTACT: PM or call on 0423 280 746 Would really prefer pick-up. Can put up photos if you really want. =)
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Weird Clicking/ticking Noise From Rear
-33- replied to -33-'s topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
sorry for resurecting, but yes, you're absolutely right. Being the lazy guy that I am, only got around to it yesterday. It had actually ripped a fair bit of the rubber casing off the driveshaft =( anyway, problem solved -
Ever Thought About Lpg Liquid Injecting Your Rb25/26det ?
-33- replied to Flynnn's topic in General Automotive Discussion
Nah not liquid unfortunately, still the mixer system in the Fords I'm pretty sure. But the liquid system above seems very promising. Bring on the results on paper -
Will be watching closely. I have the .63 housing with minor boost control problems (creep to ~21 psi). I'd probably seriously consider the 0.82 housing at some stage if it worked well. Although I do love the response of the 0.63.... Post up dyno sheets please =D
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Apex Pfc Rb25 $1000 Delivered! Brand New! With Hand Controler
-33- replied to sickr33's topic in Engines & Forced Induction
I don't see the big fuss over such a price, even if they are available (which they're probably not). Anything that gets imported with a value over $1000 gets hit with import fees which are calculated ON TOP of the postage and GST (yep, tax on a tax). Given the Aussie dollar is likely to slowly fall against the USD (already has started), you might find that your "bargain" PFC isn't such a bargain anymore... Anyway, most cheap second hand PFC's are in good nick; electronics are a bit more durable than say a second hand turbo Plus buy local and know that you're actually going to get the thing. -
Sorry i got lost... what do pulsars have to do with W427's again? Anyway I can understand saying Holdens are technologically inferior I can understand saying you don't want to pay 150k for it (I personally wouldn't... investment? Theres better things to invest in than cars. No-one bought a GTHO back in the 50s thinking they were going to sell it in 50 years time for 10x the price) BUT. I disagree with people bagging Holden for selling it at 150k. Why wouldn't they? Holden has a monopoly on bogans. Bogans will buy the car = PROFIT. Smart move. If you could sell your bike for 150K wouldn't you? Of course you would.
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Weird Clicking/ticking Noise From Rear
-33- replied to -33-'s topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Ok wtf.... i was driving home from work just before and the noise was there, just as loud as ever pissing me right off. Then as i'm driving along normally I hear a *SNAP* from the rear... noise is gone. At the top of my street, I turned my car off and let it roll to my house... can hear a really really really faint ticking noise from the handbrake. It MUST be a handbrake related issue. Can't be the diff... diff still seems to lock up fine, and the noise doesn't change when cornering. Maybe driveshaft/axle problem... BUT WHY DOES IT GO AWAY AND COME BACK!!!! LEAVE ME ALONE DAMMIT My car is possessed. -
Weird Clicking/ticking Noise From Rear
-33- replied to -33-'s topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Oh don't tell me its one of THOSE =( I HATE those problems. I'd prefer my turbo just blew or something... then at least i'd know what it was... -
Ok about 6 weeks ago my car starting making this really weird LOUD clicking/ticking/grinding noise at the rear. The clicking speeds up as I accelerate; ALSO... the noise seems to sort of change when i gently pull the handbrake up as i'm driving. THEN, after a couple of weeks, the noise just went away. Sometimes a really really faint ticking could be heard but that was about it. Then, all of a sudden, it came back dammit. I thought it might be pads; got those changed, the discs were fine as well. Apart from the fact that it is REALLY annoying, the car seems to turn, accelerate, stop fine. What is it?
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Going Back To Stock Suspension
-33- replied to -33-'s topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Great, thats all i wanted to know. Thanks everyone =) -
Going Back To Stock Suspension
-33- replied to -33-'s topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
well that's even worse... Should i just keep the super tough springs then until I can afford a bilstein street kit? Diff/drive-shaft repairs ain't cheap.... -
Going Back To Stock Suspension
-33- replied to -33-'s topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
Yeah but why spend money on shitty king springs... might as well just save up for a decent all round kit. All I wanted to know was whether there was any particular benefits of leaving super-hard front suspension in terms of handling. I personally don't think it will help grip, since i think a car needs to squat a bit at the front to put torque down at the rear - if you've used front & rear brakes on a motorbike, you'll know where my logic is coming from. Then again, I'm no suspension expert so if anyone wants to give me advice to the contrary go for it =) By the way, are there any other problems i'm likely to run into when going back to stock suspension with that sort of power level? -
Going Back To Stock Suspension
-33- replied to -33-'s topic in Suspension, braking, tyres and drivetrain
great, thanks alot for your help =) -
Ok, when I bought my R33 GTS-T (couple years ago now) it came with Jap-spec Tein HR coilover suspension. The spring rates were ridiculously hard for the road, but I put up with them mostly because I got used to them. But that was when the car was stock. Now its pulling a good 260+ at the rears. Because of the super tough spring rates, it cannot squat at all at the rear and thus I get wheelspin (on 265's mind you) when planting it in third in a straight line.... so yeah, i've just about had enough of wheelspin, and kidney damage over bumps. Now I do want one of those sydneykid bilstein/whiteline street setups, but thats a while off due to lack off funds. HOWEVER I do have a set of stock R33 suspension i've acquired, and which i'm going to install in the meantime. QUESTION: Should I just replace the rear shocks/springs? Or all of it? Is there any gains by leaving the teins at the front, stockies at the rear? Thanks =)
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Hey i've donated, can't edit for sale info. Most people browsing the for-sale section will only look at the title of every thread. Not being able to edit all the old stuff out reduces the chances of the last few items selling, and makes for a very messy section. GIVE ME MY EDIT PRIVILEGES BACK GOD DAMMIT....
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Ok, i see your point there, but thats only half the argument. My point that it redistributes some wealth to those who need it is still valid. Agree 500%, but unfortunately that's not going to change any time soon due local companies being protected so bloody well by governments... Holden could produce a 35L V8 which runs on newborn babies and the government wouldn't do squat about it. And you can guarantee it would fall just below the luxury tax. Like i said, i'm not against a luxury tax - but the way the luxury tax is implemented is stupid. Its tailor made to get the locals across the line, and f**k off any import of decent quality.
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Oh come on... you can afford to buy a luxury car, you can afford to pay the extra. At the end of the day, owning a GTR or a 911 turbo isn't some god-given human right. It imposes certain costs on society (fuel consumption, emissions etc) which is what the tax is meant to cover, or at least provide a disincentive. If luxury car tax is increased in order to reduce taxes on those in true need, why not?
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Yeah you're right, round the $1300 mark for an RB25 one... i was probably thinking about the 4 cylinder ones. Still worth it i reckon. I really cant be bothered doing much about mine at the moment. In the two months i've had it boost has crept to a max ~21psi. I may just leave it for a while... when I get bored i'll order in the ext. housing, get a 6boost, ext gate, cams and gears and be done with it. Anyway, good luck with it, let us know how it goes Dave
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Exactly my thoughts. Didn't want to go external gate to keep it a bit more undercover but given the extra cost... should have just plumbed an ext wastegate back. So yes. In retrospect 0.63 all the way, couldn't be happier with the size. But put it this way Externally gated housing - save around $250 External gate - spend $400 6boost - spend $900 NOT wasting time and effort grinding out bullshit internal gate - ??? (fill this one in for me Dave) All up looking at a bit less than $1000 for much better flow and less headf**s, and probably a better overall result. Live and learn. Turbo is still an animal though