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Everything posted by JAV360
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missed the last cruise so i'm keen to get on board. this has given me a some what deadline to find a set of rims. 24th it is. oh yeah, got a S1 rs4.
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Just another thing to add, besure to get the left and right hand calipers on the right sides, otherwise you may find it hard to bleed up correctly. The bleed nipple can tell you which side is which by having the nipple at the highest point rather than at the bottom. Air rises (who would've thought?) so it won't bleed out if the nipple isn't up the top.
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Yeah mate, r34 gtt rear disc and caliper.
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Finally got around to fitting r34 gtt rear brakes to the S1. For those interested in doing this upgrade it is very simple and will only take an hour or so, providing you have tools to do the job. We all know the rear brakes have room for improvement and if you're like most poeple and have decent set of mags, there is nothing worse than looking through those rims and seeing rusty discs and calipers covered in brake dust. Once the two 14mm caliper slides are removed, remove the 17mm caliper bracket bolts. Take the disc off, this may require a hit with a mallet to free up. The handbrake shoes don't need to be adjusted as the standard stagea disc and r34 gtt disc have the same inside diameter. Its obvious the r34 disc is bigger and when attempting to fit you will notice it hits the backing plate. I used a angle grinder with a thin cutting disc to cut the lip off of the backing plate. Clean up the hub before fitting the disc to prevent any possible runout causing pulsation when braking. Fit the disc as well as the caliper, i happenend to keep the original caliper bolts from the 34 so i used them, but the stagea caliper bolts are the same it just has a different washer. If you happen to get the brake lines with the 34 calipers it is a bonus, otherwise the stagea lines can be used but the stagea uses a banjo bolt unlike the 34 caliper which has fixed line with a flare fitting, to use the stagea line it is best to remove the flare fitting from inside of the 34 caliper. Once it is all fiited its now time to bleed the brakes and give it a road test.
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Can anyone help me out? I'm after a r32 gtr front bar lower lip, would be awsome to get a gun metal grey one but hey you can't win them all. Also would be great if someone had one in adelaide, but am willing to buy interstate. All offers welcome. cheers.
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Has anyone had any starting problems? I've traced the fault to the starter solenoid but was wondering if anybody else has had issues and replaced it. Is the solenoid interchangeable with other startermotors? I've been quoted close to 300 for a complete changeover starter motor, which is a bit rich.
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My misses has a 32gtst with all the gear and is fun to drive, but the stagea is just as good (apart from the whole sideways action), everyone assumes its just a family wagon till ya blow em off at the lights, and yeah the whole room in the back is awsome, how many imports can fit 3 mountain bikes in the back.
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Na mate, i don't have a m35, only got a S1.
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let's face it, the standard brakes on a stagea aren't the best and after having a full load it was obvious, better brakes were needed. After reading the 'do it yourself' section i thought i'd post up a how to fit 33 front brakes. I managed to get a set of r33 gts-t front calipers and discs for only 300 from a jap wreckers. The calipers were in good nick and even came with some pads, the discs weren't that bad but did require machining, lucky for me my work has a brake lathe. Once the old caliper and disc has been removed, the backing plate will need to be cut in the corners due to the bigger caliper. I cut mine with a pair of in snips and didn't need that much force. Now for the caliper, the original line can still be used but the banjo bolt is too long so the flare fitting inside the caliper will need to be removed. I managed to get mine out by inserting a relatively course threaded screw into the fitting the using a claw hammer to lever it out. I found the mounting bolts for the old caliper cant be used as the thread is different in the 33 caliper, and even the original 33 caliper bolts are too short. I had to go to a wreckers to find some bolts, i went to a U-pull-it wreckers and found some bolts on the floor under an old bluebird, not sure where they came from. Now the caliper can be mounted, i had to use a spacer and a lock washer behind the mounting bolts as the were a bit too long and hit the back of the disc, so make sure whatever bolts are used that they go in far enough but not too far. With everything mounted and secured all thats left is to bleed the brakes. Not only is it a braking improvment but the look pretty good through the wheels. All up, besides machining and painting this could easily be achived in a day. The wreckers didn't have any rear brakes so you will have to bare with me and i'll post up a thread on that at in the not to distant future. Cheers, if there are any questions i'll be happy to answer them.
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Anyone know of any 'trustworhty' workshops in adeliade. The S1 is comin on 86k and i wanna get the timing belt and water pump done. A shop with tuning capabilities and a dyno would be sweet. Cheeers to anyone who can help.
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always good to see more stageas here, i have a set of original stagea wheels for sale, 16's with brand new tyres. if you're interested make an offer.
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always good to see more stageas here, i have a set of original stagea wheels for sale, 16's with brand new tyres. if you're interested make an offer.
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Now a new stagea owner i need to fund my new addiction and part with my old car, a 95 Holden Statesman. If anyone knows someone who wants to buy one click on the link for more details, and the person who helps with the sale will recieve 200 bucks as a finders fee. Cheers. http://www.carsales.com.au/used-cars/priva...matchallpartial
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I must admit the attention you get from owning a stag is good but sometimes it just gives me the sh$ts. Especially when you"ve got some captain know it all spinning some crap in your ear when he doesn't know JACK. I love the sound of snapping necks when you're cruisin around tho, if only the front windows were as tinted as the rear ones so you can't see the tool in falcadore with one eye brow raised and the confused look on his face.
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cheers for the link, all of that stuff is very tempting. It'd be sweet to see some pics of what the end result is with the springs and shocks. cheers.
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Has anyone fitted a set of lowered springs? how low? how much? and who makes them?
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ok, managed to swap the boost controller with the misses one off her 32, instant result, got it up to 14 pound and it puts you back in the seat.
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hey guys, had my 97 stagea for about a week now and it runs pretty sweet, its got a FMI, 3inch stainless exhaust, vg30 turbo, pod filter with fabricated heat sheild, only an auto but you can't win them all. The guy i bought it of told me there was a boost cut off at around half a bar or 7 psi, it has a boost conrtol valve but theres no difference when turning it up, Is it a boost control valve problem or more of a fuel cut program in the ECU. Any help? cheers, i've attatched a pic, check it out let me know what you think. paid 16k
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cheers for the info, i'm guessing it'll be easier to get an aftermarket unit. cheers.
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I'm a newbie to the site, and I guess this has come up before, so I apologise for not finding it on the site. Tried the TV in my Stgea, managed to get SBS in black and white, with a rolling screen. Temporarily hooked up the house set top box through the audio/video inputs, played a program recorded on the hard disk. Sound perfect but again, B&W on the screen, rolling picture. Any adjustments for the TV hidden somewhere to tune it in ? Plus, whats the TV DIVER on the adjustments through the front controls ? Do they mean DRIVER ? In any case, no adjustment seems available. Cheers, J.